rayborbon Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 I have not done a whole lot of them but here's a local one that's pretty sweet. Brass Balls Castle Rock Spray Away! Quote
erik Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 well the whole pitch is a bit harder, but the hand crack on thin fingers is the best hand crank anywhere........ [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: erik ] [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: erik ] Quote
dr._jay Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 the roof moves are bomber, but the route is too short. bob dylan at vantage is a pretty spicy little number, too, but my vote still goes to fat city crack at lumpy ridge. Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 On the backside of the Chief are two big cracks, Bop Til You Drop and Boogie Til You Puke. First one is 10b chim to fists and second one is 10c OW all the way. i was too scared/gear deficient to do either one but they sure look good. Anybody got some #3 BigBros?.this is going to be year of wide cracks, maybe. im finding carhartts are real good for kneebarring in. Quote
Matt_Anderson Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Nominees for best .10b ever:- Split Pillar- 2nd Pitch of Davis Holand;- Illusion Dweller;- Crux pitch on the Casual Route on the Diamond ( a bit of overhanging jugs and stemming 1000 feet off the deck at 14,000 elev.)- (I'm not sure if its supposed to be .10a or .10b, but . . .) The second to the last pitch on the nose - Jam it or layback it, equally solid, chicken heads for feet, 1/2 mile of exposure. And the winner is . . . . The casual route pitch - good rock, good climbing, clean falls (if you gotta . . .) plus Position - Position - Position! Illusion dweller wold have to be second; The two corners mentioned above, lack the diversity of moves that I think (imho)are required to truly be the best. But . . . anybody been on Lotus Flower Tower? There might be something there . . . Quote
pope Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Got to agree with Cavey. Brass Balls is sweet, although I'm not sure that's such a pure crack climb. How about Easter Overhang? This has been called everything from 5.9 to 5.10c. Regardless of what you call it, this is one of my favorite climbs in the Universe. Quote
freeclimb9 Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Crack of Doom in The City of rocks (who cares if it's not 10b). First pitch of Cripple Creek on Mt. Lemmon (try it on a Summer afternoon when it's slicker than slut on Saturday night). The other pitches are icing on the cake. The Split Pillar on the Grand Wall. Supercrack in Indian Creek. T-crack above Santa Barbara. And so many others. Quote
chucK Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Crux pitch on Squamish Buttress is pretty sweet and probably about 10b. Not the best 10b in the world but cooler than a lot of other stuff mentioned in this thread. Quote
TimL Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 My vote is for the 5.10b Split Pillar pitch at Squamish or GM p2 linked with Heart of the Country p3 at Index. Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: Crux pitch on Squamish Buttress is pretty sweet and probably about 10b. Not the best 10b in the world but cooler than a lot of other stuff mentioned in this thread. I would say 10c? Maybe its "Washington 10b?" and what about Slap and Tickle at the Upper Malamute? I guess it is Brian Burdo style 10b cause the crack is 5.9 and there is a single face move of 10a/b at the end but it is still a damn good crack. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Surrealistic Pillar Direct @ Lover's Leap. Split Pillar is out because it's merely thuggish liebacking Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Surrealistic Pillar Direct @ Lover's Leap.Split Pillar is out because it's merely thuggish liebacking Pshaw, nice troll, everyone knows that you jam the Pillar after the first 10 feet!!! Quote
willstrickland Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Easy...Incredible Handcrack @ the creek just don't go on the weekend. Quote
PDXClimber Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 I can't imagine anything being better than Indian Creek: Incredible Hand Crack (10c) and Supercrack (10)...? Quote
todd Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 there have been a few, but the one that is coming to mind is "illusion dweller". Quote
chucK Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 I thought of another one that actually IS rated 10b in the current guidebook...the RPM start to Outer Space has a 10b crack pitch through a small roof. Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Hmm. now for some alpine cracks the crux pitch on the north ridge of mt clarke is pretty damn good especially with a big heavy pack on! except maybe it is 10a. whatever. the first pitch of the digestive system on mt. webb was a good 10b too. shame about pitches 4-6. Quote
jordop Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 1st pitch North Face Fairview Dome; almost alpine! Quote
rayborbon Posted March 18, 2002 Author Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by cappellini: there's a great fist crack near uranus....i thought it was nine plus...tape helps I need caving equipment and a parachute to climb the crack near uranus. No big bro or camalot #5 could protect that chasm Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 yup no worry ray's got the gear to get up the crack of uranus. actually "crack of infinity" is a good 10b/c up near "exploring uranus" on the "backside of the chief". Quote
crank_sloper Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 There is this really good finger crack on the side of the new Biology building... Quote
specialed Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 How bout most underrated crack: Pumpline on Careno at L-worth. Not only underrated, but one of the best single pitches anywhere. Quote
jordop Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 I used to doze off in lectures and dream about doin the FA of the Chan Can! Quote
Dru Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by specialed: How bout most underrated crack: Pumpline on Careno at L-worth. Not only underrated, but one of the best single pitches anywhere. Is that the "11b" one? Quote
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