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The best 5.10b crack in the universe?


rayborbon

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On the backside of the Chief are two big cracks, Bop Til You Drop and Boogie Til You Puke. First one is 10b chim to fists and second one is 10c OW all the way. i was too scared/gear deficient to do either one but they sure look good. Anybody got some #3 BigBros?.this is going to be year of wide cracks, maybe. im finding carhartts are real good for kneebarring in.

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Nominees for best .10b ever:- Split Pillar- 2nd Pitch of Davis Holand;- Illusion Dweller;- Crux pitch on the Casual Route on the Diamond ( a bit of overhanging jugs and stemming 1000 feet off the deck at 14,000 elev.)- (I'm not sure if its supposed to be .10a or .10b, but . . .) The second to the last pitch on the nose - Jam it or layback it, equally solid, chicken heads for feet, 1/2 mile of exposure.

And the winner is . . . .

The casual route pitch - good rock, good climbing, clean falls (if you gotta . . .) plus Position - Position - Position!

Illusion dweller wold have to be second; The two corners mentioned above, lack the diversity of moves that I think (imho)are required to truly be the best.

But . . . anybody been on Lotus Flower Tower? There might be something there . . .

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Got to agree with Cavey. Brass Balls is sweet, although I'm not sure that's such a pure crack climb. How about Easter Overhang? This has been called everything from 5.9 to 5.10c. Regardless of what you call it, this is one of my favorite climbs in the Universe.

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Crack of Doom in The City of rocks (who cares if it's not 10b).

First pitch of Cripple Creek on Mt. Lemmon (try it on a Summer afternoon when it's slicker than slut on Saturday night). The other pitches are icing on the cake.

The Split Pillar on the Grand Wall.

Supercrack in Indian Creek.

T-crack above Santa Barbara.

And so many others.

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quote:

Originally posted by chucK:
Crux pitch on Squamish Buttress is pretty sweet and probably about 10b. Not the best 10b in the world but cooler than a lot of other stuff mentioned in this thread.

I would say 10c? Maybe its "Washington 10b?"

and what about Slap and Tickle at the Upper Malamute? I guess it is Brian Burdo style 10b cause the crack is 5.9 and there is a single face move of 10a/b at the end but it is still a damn good crack.

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quote:

Originally posted by Peter Puget:
Surrealistic Pillar Direct @ Lover's Leap.

Split Pillar is out because it's merely thuggish liebacking

Pshaw, nice troll, everyone knows that you jam the Pillar after the first 10 feet!!!

[laf][laf]

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Hmm. now for some alpine cracks

the crux pitch on the north ridge of mt clarke is pretty damn good especially with a big heavy pack on! except maybe it is 10a. whatever.

the first pitch of the digestive system on mt. webb was a good 10b too. shame about pitches 4-6.

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