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Posted

I have a dumb question. When aiding a bolted section is it necessary to use double carabiners or is it fine to use just one?

 

Don't be too hard on me. Geek_em8.gif

 

Thanks

 

Craig

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Posted

are you looking at that wacky description of aid-climbing

in Freedom of the Hills? where they show leaving 2 biners

on every piece? There are better learn-to-aid-climb

references around.

Posted

Yeah, but most bolts one biner is fine.

 

Where you NEED two biners, or some type of runner is when clipping into a pin. With only one biner it puts a kink in the rope, adding lots of drag.

Posted
Lambone said:

Yeah, but most bolts one biner is fine.

 

Where you NEED two biners, or some type of runner is when clipping into a pin. With only one biner it puts a kink in the rope, adding lots of drag.

 

use "tie off" or "hero" loops

Posted
CraigA said:

I have a dumb question. When aiding a bolted section is it necessary to use double carabiners or is it fine to use just one?

 

Don't be too hard on me. Geek_em8.gif

 

Thanks

 

Craig

 

Either just clip your daisy/aider set-up directly into the bolt or if you want to be real fast put a fifi hook on your setup and just hook 'em!

Posted
specialed said:

CraigA said:

I have a dumb question. When aiding a bolted section is it necessary to use double carabiners or is it fine to use just one?

 

Don't be too hard on me. Geek_em8.gif

 

Thanks

 

Craig

 

Either just clip your daisy/aider set-up directly into the bolt or if you want to be real fast put a fifi hook on your setup and just hook 'em!

 

...and just leave suitable "protection" as required...

Posted

Craig,

I have never seen anyone really put the two biners on a bolt. Since bolt ladders are usually secure, most climbers backclean the crap out of them. It makes your second's life easier and faster. I would also recommend using an adustable daisy as opposed to the old school fifi. They are much more convenient and require less muscle.

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