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Posted

one big disadvantage of the dynafit is that one cannot switch mode (locked to unlocked) without taking the ski off. switching mode back and forth is very convenient when tired and skiing rolling terrain on the way out. most other problems with the dynafit are surmountable with practice and it is a very nice binding.

Posted
j_b said:

one big disadvantage of the dynafit is that one cannot switch mode (locked to unlocked) without taking the ski off. switching mode back and forth is very convenient when tired and skiing rolling terrain on the way out. most other problems with the dynafit are surmountable with practice and it is a very nice binding.

 

From this thread on dynafits over at www.telemarktips.com: Oh! The irony! rolleyes.gif

 

I'm a dynafit user, and it is possible to go into touring mode without disconecting the toe. Just make sure the toe piece is in the locked down mode and reach down and twist the heelpiece. Trust me it works.

 

10-4 Corey. I can change from locked heel to touring mode without removing the ski. Just twist the heelpiece with your pole while pulling up your heel and its done. 5 seconds maybe.

Posted
j_b said:

one big disadvantage of the dynafit is that one cannot switch mode (locked to unlocked) without taking the ski off. switching mode back and forth is very convenient when tired and skiing rolling terrain on the way out. most other problems with the dynafit are surmountable with practice and it is a very nice binding.

 

Wrong j b, All you need is your pole to unlock the binding. Stick your pole through the hole in the heal lifter and tweak it.

 

And Josh my boots might weigh as much as 6 lbs for the pair. I used my bathroom scale.

Posted

i got my wife miras, fritschi, and some garmont g-lites

 

everything was on sale (different places) and the whole package only ended up costing about $550, not shabby.

 

I think a big thing to consider (at least for me it was) was determining how many days you would truly be touring vs. slogging up a volcano and then riding down, vs riding your setup in bounds, or skinning up a bit and jibbin around.

 

Once you determine your % of time for the above, you can get a system that best suits your interests. For me, I got the heaviest effin setup ever (xXx's, fritschi and denali xt's) but i love it. I don't know what its like with a lighter setup so it works fine for me.

 

I'd say, demo some stuff if you can, really think about when/where you want to use the gear and buy stuff on closeout at the end of the season.

Posted (edited)
snoboy said:

j_b said:

one big disadvantage of the dynafit is that one cannot switch mode (locked to unlocked) without taking the ski off. switching mode back and forth is very convenient when tired and skiing rolling terrain on the way out. most other problems with the dynafit are surmountable with practice and it is a very nice binding.

 

From this thread on dynafits over at www.telemarktips.com: Oh! The irony! rolleyes.gif

 

I'm a dynafit user, and it is possible to go into touring mode without disconecting the toe. Just make sure the toe piece is in the locked down mode and reach down and twist the heelpiece. Trust me it works.

 

10-4 Corey. I can change from locked heel to touring mode without removing the ski. Just twist the heelpiece with your pole while pulling up your heel and its done. 5 seconds maybe.

 

well i'll have to try it on my wife's setup. i have certainly encountered my share of dynafit users flustered by this.

 

btw i fail to see the irony in my being mistaken.

 

thanks ak. do you have a later generation dynafit binding. i wonder if your method works with the original model.

Edited by j_b
Posted
j_b said:btw i fail to see the irony in my being mistaken.

 

Look again for the irony... it is not in your being mistaken... I think you will enjoy it when you find it... wink.gif

Posted
j_b said:

do you have a later generation dynafit binding. i wonder if your method works with the original model.

 

I have last years model and it works. A little tricky and takes some practice though...

Posted
gapertimmy said:

i got my wife miras, fritschi, and some garmont g-lites

 

everything was on sale (different places) and the whole package only ended up costing about $550, not shabby.

 

I think a big thing to consider (at least for me it was) was determining how many days you would truly be touring vs. slogging up a volcano and then riding down, vs riding your setup in bounds, or skinning up a bit and jibbin around.

 

Once you determine your % of time for the above, you can get a system that best suits your interests. For me, I got the heaviest effin setup ever (xXx's, fritschi and denali xt's) but i love it. I don't know what its like with a lighter setup so it works fine for me.

 

I'd say, demo some stuff if you can, really think about when/where you want to use the gear and buy stuff on closeout at the end of the season.

 

Word. My use pattern will probably be 50% inbounds, 40% 1 day, 10% ski-in and yo-yo. Went with Fischer Big Stix 750s, Freerides, and Lowa Struktura EVOs. I have pair of old-school Karhus with 404's for other stuff....

Posted
Rodchester said:

Just a note...the Scarpa Magic is a chick boot....the Lazer is a guy's boot. My understanding is that they are pretty much the same caliber of boot, but the Magic is built on a chick last.

 

So I have a question for you experienced AT guys and gals on the proper ski length. The wife is 5ft. 6 in. and weighs 120lbs. As I stated above I am looking at going with the BD Mira (but maybe another ski if the price and weight is right), Dimar 3 bindings, and the Scarpa Magic boot.

 

The question is what length for a fairly novice skier? I think with her weight, or lack thereof, she'll have plenty of surface area to keep her floating on the surface. So for turning, I'm leaning toward going shorter.

 

But if I go too short, will she dig the tips in? She won't be skiing real aggressively, so I was looking at 160ish length (Mira's shortest is 162), but someone stated that she should consider going with 150ish skis (another brand).

 

Any input on length of skis with her height, weight, and abilities would be appreciated.

 

 

wave.gif

 

 

I don't understand the issue of digging the tips in?

 

I have read some debate that the weight of the skier should

dictate the length of ski more than the height. I guess the

issue is that you need to have enough weight to flex the ski

into its designed turning radius? This makes it pretty tricky

for women who are usually pretty light and therefore would

seem to require skis much shorter than anyone actually

manufactures. Don't forget to consider how much weight she

might be carrying in a pack while skiing.

 

I am under 5'2" but I weigh a fair bit more than your wife

especially with a pack on, and I learned to (tele) ski on

175s. Those are my AT skis now and I got 160s for tele which

are waaay too short and wimpy soft for me.

 

So I guess my point is that there may not be a general rule

that applies and she might benefit from demoing a few different

models and lengths to get an idea of what she prefers length

vs width vs stiffness. Probably get some boots that fit her

properly first I would think.

Posted

160's. Usually w/ the modern skis, something a little shorter than you tall are does well. Obviously the ski experiences weight, not height though. 162 puts you right there. The mira/diamir/magic setup is a sweet setup if I may say so. In the end, I bet you adapt to whatever you have on your feet though. I've skied 175-192. I weigh 180ish. Hope that helps.

Posted

What about the Atomic TM 22 for AT skis? They are pretty light. I know they market them for Tele, but someone told me they worked well for AT too. Are tele skis typically softer than AT and is that the reason you don't typically cross over tele to AT?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I've been checking out the new Scarpa Lasers with the custom heat moldable liners. If you are between sizes on those heat moldable liners is it better to go with the smaller or larger size? I'm getting mixed reviews from 'sales associates' on this question.

 

Also, how do you know if you have the right shell size? What is too big/small?

Posted

Right shell size is when you can get one to two fingers behind your heel when your foot is in the shell sans liner. When the boot is fully buckled down you want just a little bit of wiggle room.

Posted
Dustin_B said:

What about the Atomic TM 22 for AT skis? They are pretty light. I know they market them for Tele, but someone told me they worked well for AT too. Are tele skis typically softer than AT and is that the reason you don't typically cross over tele to AT?

 

Dont most Tele Marketed skis have less material in the heel mounting area, part of what makes the ski lighter. Therefore they would make poor AT or Alpine skis because of week mounts?

Posted

fact is, there's so little (if any) difference between AT and telemark skis these days despite what marketing spins. A decent alpine board is all that is needed.

Posted
iain said:

fact is, there's so little (if any) difference between AT and telemark skis these days despite what marketing spins. A decent alpine board is all that is needed.

You's on R:EX, no? I want a pair of TM:EX once my Miras are rock skis. fruit.gif

Posted

if you can afford to, it might pay off to wait a season on the naxo's to see what happens...seems risky to be the first out the gates on bindings these days...

Posted
neversummer said:

Speaking of AT gear, has anyone seen a pair of the NAXO AT bindings anywhere?

 

Check Marmot in Bellevue, I think I saw some in there a few days ago. Not familiar with the line but the name sounds kind of familiar. They were black with a Fritschi look to them.

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