wayne Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 Thin Fings ,With the finish(11a) Is nothing less than purecrack joy!This gets long ,condom-free luv ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 wayne1112 said: Thin Fings ,With the finish(11a) Â I don't understand, is there an extension of the old route, or a people just doing the hand crack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted September 15, 2003 Author Share Posted September 15, 2003 Its a 2 pitch route, Or 1 long one. Some just do the 1st pitch at 5.10a which is a cool rt for the grade, But man, the finish 11 is icing on the cake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 Guess the bottom got upgraded to "a pitch". Couldn't remember it being 2 pitches, so I looked in my guides (most recent '93). In the oldest 2 the 10a part isn't listed, and in the '93 it's called "Thin Fingers approach'. Not arguing, just trying to restart the memory cells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 The start of the "2nd pitch" is a bastard. You're sooo close to the sinker crack...yet so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babnik Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 jah guy that thing kicked ma azz! but none-the-less Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 Dare I say...no, I dare not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babnik Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 Norsky said: Dare I say...no, I dare not. Â i dont wanna know champ. keeeeep it to yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wscottf Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 russ said: Guess the bottom got upgraded to "a pitch". Couldn't remember it being 2 pitches, so I looked in my guides (most recent '93). In the oldest 2 the 10a part isn't listed, and in the '93 it's called "Thin Fingers approach'. Not arguing, just trying to restart the memory cells. Â Right, "Thin Fingers approach" is considered the first pitch. Â Now I'm no 5.11 leader, but I've top roped Thin Fingers on a couple occasions, I find "Breakfast of Champions" at .10a to be harder than Thin Fingers. Â Does anyone else think that Thin Fingers is a bit over-rated? The start of the "second pitch" is tough, but the guide rates that 10d, while the upper portion of the crack is rated 11a (or b). I don't think it feels like 11 at all. Maybe Breakfast of Champions is underrated? Â Comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 wscottf said: Now I'm no 5.11 leader, but I've top roped Thin Fingers on a couple occasions, I find "Breakfast of Champions" at .10a to be harder than Thin Fingers. Â Does anyone else think that Thin Fingers is a bit over-rated? The start of the "second pitch" is tough, but the guide rates that 10d, while the upper portion of the crack is rated 11a (or b). I don't think it feels like 11 at all. Maybe Breakfast of Champions is underrated? Â Comments? Â IMHO the rating is based on leading it. You go from bomber crack to thin, hard to protect moves. TR just doesn't capture spirit of the climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 Wscottf - Â I agree that above the first move on the "2nd" pitch Thin Fingers is not 5.11. I guess what is claimed depends on what guide you use. To me the upper crack is easier than BOC. That first move if done directly is 5.11. You can traverse in from the right and avoid the crux move. Â The consensus seems to be that the upper crack has become larger over time. If I really think about it I find this hard to believe but while climbing it the crack does seem like it takes larger cams than 20 years ago. A good quarry legend in any event. Â Big Toes is a fun variation. Maybe that's where the 5.11 confusion comes in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 DCramer said: Wscottf - Â I agree that above the first move on the "2nd" pitch Thin Fingers is not 5.11. I guess what is claimed depends on what guide you use. To me the upper crack is easier than BOC. That first move if done directly is 5.11. You can traverse in from the right and avoid the crux move. Â The consensus seems to be that the upper crack has become larger over time. If I really think about it I find this hard to believe but while climbing it the crack does seem like it takes larger cams than 20 years ago. A good quarry legend in any event. Â Big Toes is a fun variation. Maybe that's where the 5.11 confusion comes in. Â Yeah the only 11 on that climb is the super thin move to get into the hand crack, from there its bitchin 10a with the commiting but solid layback section. Tits!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 Whoops! I meant to say that the upper crack was not eaiser than BOC! But I havent climbed BOC for along time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 DCramer said: Whoops! I meant to say that the upper crack was not eaiser than BOC! But I havent climbed BOC for along time. Â I think if you link p2 Rogers Corner with BOC, you get a lead that is harder than Thin Fingers (without TFA). I think Thin Fingers traversing in from the right is only about 10b, but that direct move is very thin and makes it harder! Â Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 Are you saying that BOC is at least 5.10c? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 (edited) They are both .10a ....think about it...heart of the country is a decent .10b...they are both easier by a smidge...likewise, the 2nd pitch of davis holland (.10a)...about the same as that...these are kinda your standard index 10a's, right? Â The second pitch of narrow arrow is .10 a or b, and feels in the same ballpark... Â Only thing on thin fingers approaching .11 is the step off the ledge... Â Big Toes feels like .11a... Edited September 18, 2003 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 it depends on hand size (duh). for me upper thin fingers is wide and significantly harder than boc, heart of the country or 2nd pitch of davis holland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 I dunno...i have super small hands...feet are too good for that thing to be more than low 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 true the feet are good but the hands are between hands and fists. i took a fall on that section the first time i led it which i've never done on the other climbs mentioned, so it may color my perpective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 the only real difference i can see is that all of the other ones mentioned are pretty much straight in while TF kinda angles...maybe that's what really got you on that first go? Just a thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 Breakfast angles the exact same way at the start (crux). Â So you guys seriously think the pull through the second roof is only 10a? I guess I haven't done it in a while (and never on lead), but I thought that part was pretty hard. Daryl's guide calls that part 10d, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 i kinda face climb the intitial thin part of boc (hanging off the side)...the actual jammin' section is straight in... Â Yeppers...doesn't feel bad reaching around into the layback over the roof...10-...no way 10+ Â Think about it...w/o the crux (ledge), that thing feels like sagitarius...right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 i always thought the climb was 10+ except for the bouldering start which i find a little harder than 11a. Â sagitarius is so strenuous that i find it 'unratable' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 Saggitarius on TR doesnt feel any harder than any other 10a. There are alot of rests. I think the lower section to the first anchor is technically the hardest part, while the upper section past the flake, despite being a lieback, is fairly casual. Â Now, ... I said on TR. Â I've never had the balls to lead the thing. Â ---------------------------- Â DCramer, as for BOC being 10c, no. BOC is 10a. I suggested that if you link the 2nd pitch of Rogers Corner with BOC without really resting, you get a pitch that is more enduro and harder than Thin Fingers. Technically, Thin Fingers only has that one move at the bottom thats really tough, the rest of it is just cruiser jams. Just one peon's opinion though. Â Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 19, 2003 Share Posted September 19, 2003 Saggiscarious is a good climb. I don't think it's harder than 10a but it's a special that some people might not forget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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