Luvn'For Thin Finger

[wayne]

Thin Fings ,With the finish(11a) Is nothing less than purecrack joy!This gets long ,condom-free luv !

[russ]

wayne1112 said:

Thin Fings ,With the finish(11a)

 

I don't understand, is there an extension of the old route, or a people just doing the hand crack?

[wayne]

Its a 2 pitch route, Or 1 long one.

Some just do the 1st pitch at 5.10a which is a cool rt for the grade, But man, the finish 11 is icing on the cake!

[russ]

Guess the bottom got upgraded to "a pitch". Couldn't remember it being 2 pitches, so I looked in my guides (most recent '93). In the oldest 2 the 10a part isn't listed, and in the '93 it's called "Thin Fingers approach'. Not arguing, just trying to restart the memory cells.

[Norsky]

The start of the "2nd pitch" is a bastard. You're sooo close to the sinker crack...yet so far.

[babnik]

jah guy that thing kicked ma azz! but none-the-less

[Norsky]

Dare I say...no, I dare not.

[babnik]

Norsky said:

Dare I say...no, I dare not.

 

i dont wanna know champ. keeeeep it to yourself.

[wscottf]

russ said:

Guess the bottom got upgraded to "a pitch". Couldn't remember it being 2 pitches, so I looked in my guides (most recent '93). In the oldest 2 the 10a part isn't listed, and in the '93 it's called "Thin Fingers approach'. Not arguing, just trying to restart the memory cells.

 

Right, "Thin Fingers approach" is considered the first pitch.

 

Now I'm no 5.11 leader, but I've top roped Thin Fingers on a couple occasions, I find "Breakfast of Champions" at .10a to be harder than Thin Fingers.

 

Does anyone else think that Thin Fingers is a bit over-rated? The start of the "second pitch" is tough, but the guide rates that 10d, while the upper portion of the crack is rated 11a (or b). I don't think it feels like 11 at all. Maybe Breakfast of Champions is underrated?

 

Comments?

[russ]

wscottf said:

Now I'm no 5.11 leader, but I've top roped Thin Fingers on a couple occasions, I find "Breakfast of Champions" at .10a to be harder than Thin Fingers.

 

Does anyone else think that Thin Fingers is a bit over-rated? The start of the "second pitch" is tough, but the guide rates that 10d, while the upper portion of the crack is rated 11a (or b). I don't think it feels like 11 at all. Maybe Breakfast of Champions is underrated?

 

Comments?

 

IMHO the rating is based on leading it. You go from bomber crack to thin, hard to protect moves. TR just doesn't capture spirit of the climb.

[DCramer]

Wscottf -

 

I agree that above the first move on the "2nd" pitch Thin Fingers is not 5.11. I guess what is claimed depends on what guide you use. To me the upper crack is easier than BOC. That first move if done directly is 5.11. You can traverse in from the right and avoid the crux move.

 

The consensus seems to be that the upper crack has become larger over time. If I really think about it I find this hard to believe but while climbing it the crack does seem like it takes larger cams than 20 years ago. A good quarry legend in any event.

 

Big Toes is a fun variation. Maybe that's where the 5.11 confusion comes in.

[specialed]

DCramer said:

Wscottf -

 

I agree that above the first move on the "2nd" pitch Thin Fingers is not 5.11. I guess what is claimed depends on what guide you use. To me the upper crack is easier than BOC. That first move if done directly is 5.11. You can traverse in from the right and avoid the crux move.

 

The consensus seems to be that the upper crack has become larger over time. If I really think about it I find this hard to believe but while climbing it the crack does seem like it takes larger cams than 20 years ago. A good quarry legend in any event.

 

Big Toes is a fun variation. Maybe that's where the 5.11 confusion comes in.

 

Yeah the only 11 on that climb is the super thin move to get into the hand crack, from there its bitchin 10a with the commiting but solid layback section. Tits!!

[DCramer]

Whoops! I meant to say that the upper crack was not eaiser than BOC! But I havent climbed BOC for along time.

[Alex]

DCramer said:

Whoops! I meant to say that the upper crack was not eaiser than BOC! But I havent climbed BOC for along time.

 

I think if you link p2 Rogers Corner with BOC, you get a lead that is harder than Thin Fingers (without TFA). I think Thin Fingers traversing in from the right is only about 10b, but that direct move is very thin and makes it harder!

 

Alex

[DCramer]

Are you saying that BOC is at least 5.10c?

[RuMR]

They are both .10a ....think about it...heart of the country is a decent .10b...they are both easier by a smidge...likewise, the 2nd pitch of davis holland (.10a)...about the same as that...these are kinda your standard index 10a's, right?

 

The second pitch of narrow arrow is .10 a or b, and feels in the same ballpark...

 

Only thing on thin fingers approaching .11 is the step off the ledge...

 

Big Toes feels like .11a...

Edited September 18, 2003 by RuMR

[j_b]

it depends on hand size (duh). for me upper thin fingers is wide and significantly harder than boc, heart of the country or 2nd pitch of davis holland.

[RuMR]

I dunno...i have super small hands...feet are too good for that thing to be more than low 10

[j_b]

true the feet are good but the hands are between hands and fists. i took a fall on that section the first time i led it which i've never done on the other climbs mentioned, so it may color my perpective.

[RuMR]

the only real difference i can see is that all of the other ones mentioned are pretty much straight in while TF kinda angles...maybe that's what really got you on that first go? Just a thought...

[chucK]

Breakfast angles the exact same way at the start (crux).

 

So you guys seriously think the pull through the second roof is only 10a? I guess I haven't done it in a while (and never on lead), but I thought that part was pretty hard. Daryl's guide calls that part 10d, right?

[RuMR]

i kinda face climb the intitial thin part of boc (hanging off the side)...the actual jammin' section is straight in...

 

Yeppers...doesn't feel bad reaching around into the layback over the roof...10-...no way 10+

 

Think about it...w/o the crux (ledge), that thing feels like sagitarius...right?

[j_b]

i always thought the climb was 10+ except for the bouldering start which i find a little harder than 11a.

 

sagitarius is so strenuous that i find it 'unratable'

[Alex]

Saggitarius on TR doesnt feel any harder than any other 10a. There are alot of rests. I think the lower section to the first anchor is technically the hardest part, while the upper section past the flake, despite being a lieback, is fairly casual.

 

Now, ... I said on TR.

 

I've never had the balls to lead the thing.

 

----------------------------

 

DCramer, as for BOC being 10c, no. BOC is 10a. I suggested that if you link the 2nd pitch of Rogers Corner with BOC without really resting, you get a pitch that is more enduro and harder than Thin Fingers. Technically, Thin Fingers only has that one move at the bottom thats really tough, the rest of it is just cruiser jams. Just one peon's opinion though.

 

Alex

[Cpt.Caveman]

Saggiscarious is a good climb. I don't think it's harder than 10a but it's a special that some people might not forget.