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David_Parker

Best value in draws and cams?

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Peter_Puget said:

Jon - I believe that Friends Clog Cams and DDM use the same numbering system

 

I think the DMMs are one digit higher, so a 3 DMM is the same as a 2 Camalot. Could be wrong though.

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mattp said:

I have had problems using the wire gate 'biners in the winter where I rack ice screws directly to my harness with them and they unclip themselves so I inadvertently leave a screw behind at a belay. This has happened several times, and I have never had it happen with any other type of carabiner. I also do not like the aggressive gate hooks on the wire gate biners - especially for racking wired stoppers.

 

well get with the program and get a special plastic screw racking biner thingy then! orget some DMM notchless wiregate for racking stoppers! i mean really rolleyes.giffruit.gif

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jon said:

Peter_Puget said:

Jon - I believe that Friends Clog Cams and DDM use the same numbering system

 

I think the DMMs are one digit higher, so a 3 DMM is the same as a 2 Camalot. Could be wrong though.

 

no you are right Jon, but a CAMALOT is not a Friend, DMM or Clog or HB!!!!!!!! rolleyes.gif

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LOLOLOL. DRU YOUR RIGHT I'M AN ASS. I GUESS THATS WHAT A LIQUID LUNCH AND THREE HOURS OF WAKEBOARDING DOES TO A PERSON. THAT AN KNOW I TYPE LIKE ERIK. bigdrink.gif

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Dru said:

get with the program and get a special plastic screw racking biner thingy then! orget some DMM notchless wiregate for racking stoppers! i mean really rolleyes.giffruit.gif

 

Good call, Dru. I recently looked at David Parker's racking thingamajig and thought that it looked pretty good for racking ice screws. But I suppose that means I should get with the program and be sure to have a hammer holster specifically made for my ice tools, a collection of draws that I use only for sport climbing, a belay 'biner that may be different from the one I use for rapelling, extra light ones for some climbs and bigger ones for ice climbing, and ovals for aid and ....

 

The racking clips DO look good -- don't get me wrong. But I find that I kind of like the Petzl Spirits for just about every application, and they are not the lightest but then again they are not really very heavy either.... And I do not use my ice screws when I use them to clip gear to my harness.

hmmmm; can one 'biner do it all?

 

It is all a personal choice, agreed.

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Cpt.Caveman said:

Coopah said:

Hell all the more popular brand names all meet the minimum standards...find one (or two) you like & go for it! Just get out and climb and quit wasting time shoveling through all these posts crying about the camalots weighing too much (wimps) or brand x walks. boxing_smiley.gif

 

I think these are the sort of things he wants to know tough guy rolleyes.gif

True enough but at some point the opinions become redundant and cause sensory overload cantfocus.gif

 

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Just gotta make sure to limit the plastic racking dealies to about 3 screws per dealy. I lost about 1/2 of my screws mid-pitch after a highstepping move forced the gate open on me...

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What working for me so far was the Trango lightweight II and WC bigwire on Blue water 24” sling about 6 of these and 4 screamers with the same biners and 3 Blue water 48” with Positron locking each or substitute 2 for the nifty stiff Yeats rabbit ears and a cordelett with Petzl William

For Ice I use Grivel 360 screws 2- 12cm, 5- 17cm, 1- 22cm, 1- BD express 13cm and 1- BD express 10cm

The preferred rock rack for me is WC rocks #2-#7 (5) and Camelot #0.5 to #3 (5) but if I will do it again I will do DMM #1 to #3.5 (6) also 2 baby angle (1, 2) also #1, #2, #4 LA and 2 knife blade thin and medium that’s will cover anything you going to see

Geek_em8.gif

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Good call, Dru. I recently looked at David Parker's racking thingamajig and thought that it looked pretty good for racking ice screws.

 

They are good. If you lose screws you got too much pro. They definitely are not for everyone though. I mean you might not seem smart putting 15 people in a vw bug but I am sure it's been done. fruit.gif

 

I think my max for ice screws on one is usually about 4 or 5 depending.

 

There's more than one way to skin a cat eh bigdrink.gif

 

Coopah- yeah I agree with your comments to a certain extent. HCL.gif

Edited by Cpt.Caveman

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IceIceBaby said:

 

For Ice I use Grivel 360 screws 2- 12”, 5- 17”, 1- 22”, 1- BD express 13” and 1- BD express 10”

 

Those are some big f#$% screws dude wazzup.gif

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A number of people have commented that they don't like the Neutrino for winter use because they are so small that it is difficult to clip the rope into them with gloved hands. How about on the other side of the draw? If you are clipping a screw or a wired stopper, does it matter so much where you don't have to open the gate with your fingers? I have only a few Neutrinos so I tend to use them in that manner.

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I've only used them once in winter. I couldn't use them, period. I couldn't get them off the sling, I couldn't clip them to a piece, I couldn't clip the rope to them. It was so bad I ran that pitch out without placing any gear. I will never, never buy them.

 

Oh, and this was with thin gloves: BD Dry Tool. thumbs_down.gifthumbs_down.gif

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