Sphinx Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Seems like most people who post here do a bunch of cragging, but only report alpine routes. Sport climbing and bouldering is slagged, so nobody admits to doing it, overall the tone is 'if it's not alpine, it's not worth doing/reporting. I don't think that's a bad thing, I rather like it, but still, why is it? Geography? History? Or is cc.com simply an alpine climbers' spray board? Any ideas? Quote
lummox Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 yea. there i was this afternoon. clipping bolts. pulling down. getting pumped. the approach took minutes. i had to stop for a sip of water along the way. Quote
Distel32 Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 I'll post a TR from my utah and CO bouldering trip if you really want Quote
Sphinx Posted August 29, 2003 Author Posted August 29, 2003 Distel32 said: I'll post a TR from my utah and CO bouldering trip if you really want If you feel an overwhelming need to catch shit from everybody, go for it. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Probably because often the conditions, trail, road, forest service reports-enforcement-whatever, national park info etc, and such are changeable for alpine climbing. Â Often some or even all of these rarely change for rock climbing or the information is so well known that it's not worth as much time. Â I'm sure many people are rock climbing. IF they have new routes they may not feel compelled to report them except to guidebook authors. I can imagine the ratings, bolt, and other wars-spray encumbered in rock climbing reports. Although it doesnt always happen... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Sphinx said: Seems like most people who post here do a bunch of cragging, but only report alpine routes. Sport climbing and bouldering is slagged, so nobody admits to doing it, overall the tone is 'if it's not alpine, it's not worth doing/reporting. I don't think that's a bad thing, I rather like it, but still, why is it? Geography? History? Or is cc.com simply an alpine climbers' spray board? Any ideas? Â I hate to state the obvious but the answer is: There is no ROCK CLIMBING FORUM! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 I vote for rock climbing forum so I dont have to read their spray. On top of that I vote Peter Pubic as moderator as long as he lets me make death threats and violent remarks  I'm betting it will produce more spray than the spray forum. Quote
jordop Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Ever hear of any bouldering epics that make great stories? Neither have I. Nuff said Quote
ryland_moore Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 When was the last time, Jordpoop, that you were free soloing a 60 ft. trad route rated 5.13? Well, that is pretty much what Evilution is rated (V12) at 60 ft. high on Grandpa Peabody in the Buttermilks. Famed climber Daniel Du Lac was about half way up when he pitched off and shattered his ankle. It may not be an epic from Mark Twight's perspective, but I would much rather be on almost any moderate alpine route run-out 40 ft. in the N. Cascades than even attempting that "problem." (Couldn't even do the first move on that thing!) Â An Epic is what you make of it as is all styles of climbing. Is someone who climbs no harder than 5.5 and is out climbing easy one poitch slab routes really a climber? Are you a climber becasue you can climb 5.9 trad and 5.11 sport? Some people may not think so. Â Climbing is what you make of it. Getting out is what it is alkl about. If you never go beyond the sdhort trail by the parking lot, but can climb 5.13, are you a climber? What about someone who can't climb 5.9 sport, but can lead .10 cracks? All of the above are climbers. I go a little beyond that, and if it pushes mentally as much as it does physically, I feel like I am "climbing." Regardless of whether or not it is alpine rock, sport routes, bouldering, ice climbing, or mountaineering. Nuf said.... Quote
Sphinx Posted August 29, 2003 Author Posted August 29, 2003 But Ryland, Evilution doesn't have V12 climbing at 60 feet. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Sphinx said: But Ryland, Evilution doesn't have V12 climbing at 60 feet. Â yeah isn't it 5.9 up high? or is that mandala? n e who... lots of people crag every day for a couple hours a day... big deal... when people go on trips that they plan a couple days in advance (enchantments etc) or months or years (denali, himilayas) it is much more of a dela for them and they get much more out of it. there isno denying that you get more out of alpine clibing... if you have an amazing experience cragging... write about it, but 99.999% of my great experiences are alpine... my 2 cents Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 What about someone who can't climb 5.9 sport, but can lead .10 cracks? Â name one... Quote
RuMR Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Sphinx said: But Ryland, Evilution doesn't have V12 climbing at 60 feet. yeah...but it does have v10 climbing a good 25 to 30 feet off the deck.. Quote
Sphinx Posted August 29, 2003 Author Posted August 29, 2003 RuMR said: Sphinx said: But Ryland, Evilution doesn't have V12 climbing at 60 feet. yeah...but it does have v10 climbing a good 25 to 30 feet off the deck.. 25 or 30 isn't the same as 60. 60 is a free solo. 25 is way highball. The euro dude didn't die did he? So it wasn't soloing. Quote
RuMR Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 never said it was soloing, now did i?  Hmmm...nope...just looked back and i don't see that...yeah, busted ankles and feet aren't too bad...happens all the time  and...you can even say you get the "alpine" experience w/ the shitty loose crappy flakes on the 5.9 top out (which is 60 feet up)... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 jordop said: Ever hear of any bouldering epics that make great stories? Neither have I. Nuff said  Ever heard of the Thimble?  PP Quote
RuMR Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Peter Puget! Â Come on petey! That thing is a picnic! Not committing at all... Quote
sk Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 (edited) reading about rock climbing is boring. " ya I went to smiff and I climbed Jete, and bunny face, drank a bunch of beer screwed my girl friend at the grass lands" rock climbing TR's are just chest beating. I will put a cavat(sp) here. Tex wrote a wonderful TR about his last trip up the nose on el cap. if you can climb and write about it like that, post it where ever the fuck you want Edited August 29, 2003 by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer Quote
ctuller Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 jordop said: Ever hear of any bouldering epics that make great stories? Neither have I. Nuff said  Yeah. I have.  Quote
lummox Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 dude. this one time i was bouldering a high ball problem. i got a burn going. blew off the crimpers. pitched for 20 feet. fucking cratered. had to hobble 50 feet to my car. and now the department of transportation put this antigraffiti shit over the rock so i cant even get redemption. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: reading about rock climbing is boring. " ya I went to smiff and I climbed Jete, and bunny face, drank a bunch of beer screwed my girl friend at the grass lands" rock climbing TR's are just chest beating. I will put a cavat(sp) here. Tex wrote a wonderful TR about his last trip up the nose on el cap. if you can climb and write about it like that, post it where ever the fuck you want  Muffy! We think almost alike. Here is what I was thinking:"ya I went to Rockies and I climbed North Face of Temple, and North face of Alberta, drank a bunch of beer screwed my girl friend at Lake Anne."  PP Quote
iain Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: reading about rock climbing is boring  WHOA THERE LASSIE may I direct your attention to the best trip report about nothing ever produced  Empty Park TR Quote
sk Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 iain said: Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: reading about rock climbing is boring  WHOA THERE LASSIE may I direct your attention to the best trip report about nothing ever produced  Empty Park TR shameless self promotion Quote
sk Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 ChrisT said: Nope it was this one. there are exceptions Quote
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