carolyn Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 First Full weekend to do anything all summer! Choice: Climbing on North Shore Background: The North Shore has climbing both along the cliffs of lake superior and inland. Its typically MUCH cooler on the cliffs, although weather can be a bit testy w/ forecasts being completely unreliable. The exposure can be great for some, especially with high winds and pounding waves. Its one place in the midwest where you can seriously be marooned if you are'nt able to make it up the climb. Heavy surf or ice can make talus impassable, cutting off your escape route. In this case you better know how to ascend a rope, enjoy getting pullied out, or be prepared for a long, cold swim. Ratings are old school...meaning tough! A 5.9 climb isnt just a couple 5.9 moves - the entire route is a 5.9. Pitches can vary from 60ft- a couple hundred feet. Routes often seem underrated. The rock -along the cliffs- is rhyolite, filled with zillions of sharp crystals (OUCHEE!). There is and probably always will be a no-chalk ethic in this area. The North Shore is an amazing place to climb. its vital to be mentally prepared, because the environment can fuck with your head so easily, turning your experience into a miserable one. Day 1: Wake with the sun along some logging road where we found an open field to camp the night before. Cup a Joe and we are ready to go. Started out with some easier climbs at Shovel Point (one of the more gentle cliffs)to boost my confidence. Moved onto some slab climbing with waaaaay cool exposure. Gorgeous weather all day- 75 and sunny. . The lake was calm and skies clear, inviting a number or divers and kayakers below us. Later in the evening, back along the logging road, we had great views of one shooting star after another as we ate dinner and threw back a few moose drools. The milky way lit up the sky before the moonlight took over, with mars shining brightly next to it. Found: A nice, new beefy rope left by a very disorganized, unsafe, and generally rude guiding company. Current location? My house! Day Two: Up again with the sun. Hit Palisade Head this day. The weather was a bit cooler - upper 60's with high winds and crashing waves. Thick fog through the early afternoon hours, finally clearing to sunny skies. this is where the mental games begin. Unlike last time, I was completely prepared and ready to take on whatever challenges came my way. The first, a 70+ft, sustained 5.8 offwidth. This route put a fear in me last year like no other climb has ever done before. A fall anywhere on the route can offer a good 30+ft pendelum, often times forcing you to start from the beginning. No problems this time around. It was actually quite enjoyable. I especially liked the 'sleeper' hold half way up. It will be a sad day when that flake breaks free. Knowing I now had an escape route, I took the opportunity to try some harder cracks. One in particular is photographed on the backside of "Freedom of the Hills" (Phantom crack). Easy 30-40ft slab start, ending with a 40ft+ hand crack, the crux being maybe 5 feet from the top. Grrrrrrrrr! Not being well versed in crack technique, I took one fall at the crux. A little determination and some creativity, I shortly topped out. One last climb before the long drive home. 80 ft sustained finger crack. Well, a finger crack for those with larger hands. Fortunately for me I was able to get my entire hand in the crack at some spots. Climbed it clean...though tough, very enjoyable! The best: Being greeted at the top of the last climb with a cold moose drool. Looking out the back window on the way home we noticed the Northern Lights. We hightailed it down a back road and enjoyed the pulsating dance in the sky for nearly an hour before realizing it was 10:30pm and we had a 4 hour drive home. Too bad for the suckas that had to work at 8am! So how was your weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 climbing anorthosite complexes is equiv. to climbing vertical pile of glass shards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 carolyn said: So how was your weekend? I tripped on a stick on the trail to Mt. Slesse and smashed my face, then I saw a HUGE salamander on the trail. I didn't know they grew so big, like about 8" just the body ! Then I balanced rocks on a moraine ridge in the fog and drizzle. Then I ate pie at the Chilliwack airport. Then I climbed the dirty chossy scary North North Arete in Squamish. It was fun. The end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 pacific giant salamander, the amphibious snaffle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 fern said: carolyn said: So how was your weekend? I tripped on a stick on the trail to Mt. Slesse and smashed my face, then I saw a HUGE salamander on the trail. I didn't know they grew so big, like about 8" just the body ! Then I balanced rocks on a moraine ridge in the fog and drizzle. Then I ate pie at the Chilliwack airport. Then I climbed the dirty chossy scary North North Arete in Squamish. It was fun. The end Sounds like a rockin' weekend for both of you, except for the face smashing part. I have only heard good things about North Shore area for climbing. I wish my weekend was like yours. Oh well got this week. I was thinking about doing North North Arete sometime. So was NN Arete dirtier than Angel's Crest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Spent all friday and saturday bouldering in squamish as usual, got really worked over because I've been hanging out with all those damn v10 climbers. But awesome as usual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Sat: hangin' with the 1042nd getting hoisted into Blackhawks Sun: Das Eliot Glacier fer das ice cräggund Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 iain said: Sun: Das Eliot Glacier fer das ice cräggund go figure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 My brother clinbed a bit at the north shore when he was a kid- great pictures. Very senic!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Friday: beer and homemade pizza Saturday: domestic projects, incl. picklemaking and sangria making also. 'Die Another Day' was a pretty awful film. Sunday: church, Frenches Dome (outta shape), beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Sunday: church, dude thats SOOOOOOOO punk rawk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Holy harcore jesus christ Knocking our religious life Live by Crass, die by the sword We're punk rock servants of the Lord You say that all you want is peace The Bible preaches anarchy You say that God does not exist You stupid punker - look at the mess you're in It's holy harcore!!! Moshing to the hardcore hymns The altar boys are in the pit The deacon's skankin in the pews I got a Bible and I don't need you Our hair is spiked we're on our knees Combat boots upon our feet Open bible, turn the page The Reverend Spike is diving off the stage - Screeching Weasel, 'Holy Hardcore' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Saturday night: Matrix IMAX, then THE BOOSTER at the Fun Forest. Sunday: Index, pretty hot in the sun. Uncrowded (smart people further up in hills) Knocked off the 5.9 classics GM/HOC various [the mysterious blue sling of GM is still mystifyingly there, the "11a" last part of HOC is more like 10a (if you use the face hold)] and Godzilla/CPP2 [timided out on Sloe Children, heat excuse], then climbed the steep 'n' dirty FREE AT LAST [someone appears to be working on the upper pitches of that, perhaps the "A2 variation", I think that resulted in the upper pitch being even dirtier than usual. one 60m rope suffices (just barely) for descent]. Then got to experience the Sultan Traffic Light crap and was late getting home . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 W. Ridge of Prusik, complete with knock-you-off-your-feet winds. Such a sweet climb. Iain, how's the Elliot cragging? Didn't think that'd be melted out enough yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Got up at 4:30 AM on Saturday Did double carries in the dark to the start of Merci Me. Discovered the joys of expando aid as the pins I stood on fell out while I placed the next one. Spent my first night in a portaledge. Drank malt liquor. Watched the sunset over Squamish Pooped in a bag! Bailed from 85% of the way up the route. Rode my pig like the be-och it is. Was really, really happy for a little while. Life is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 The Eliot is in prime shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 I sat on my ass all weekend and wrote HTML. It was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 iain said: The Eliot is in prime shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bird Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 The future Mrs. Bird, the notorious Norsky, and I headed to Squamish for a weekend of craggin and debauchery. Our initial plan on Saturday was to do Rock On and then hit some boulders, but with three heavy hangovers we thought that might be somewhat aggressive. Especially since we got a bouldering start to the day instead of an alpine start. We revised our plan to hit up some of the high quality cracks at the base of the Chief and climb some boulders in the same area. We got to the base of the Chief and realized Norsky fucked up and forgot his rope. He wasn’t about to walk 10 minutes back to the car to get it so we agreed to do Exasperator since it is one of the only ones you can do in this area with just one rope. Good old Norsky agreed to let me lead the route since I had never been on it. Too bad I pitched on the second pitch and blew the onsight. Time to climb some boulders! Norsky walks up to the highball V0 warm up… you know the one. He is on the start hold with a heel hook way out right because he didn’t want to “cheat” by standing on the little boulder and made one move and blew off. He was in the air… 3 feet off the ground and landed hard on his ankle. Sprained the shit. You wouldn’t think cratering from 3 feet would make a huge noise but Norsky has plenty of extra weight behind him so it made a huge noise. People came running cause they thought he cratered from 15’. Fatty! So we boulder for a while and head back to the car and sure enough someone tried to break in and fucked up Norsky’s rig so the passenger side door couldn’t open. Norsky is having one of the more shittier days he can remember. We spent the evening getting fucked up and fantasizing about beating the shit out of car thieves like probably half of all the other people were doing at the campsite. How many fucking thieves are in Squamish anyway? I can’t really remember much about that night. Good thing the future Mrs. Bird is somewhat of a pill popper and had some good shit for old Norsky to ease the pain. Norsky’s ankle was mostly useless so we were destined for the boulders on Sunday. Had a great time blowing the old tips out and doing some cratering of my own. Hit the road in the afternoon… the border was fucked. Got jacked on coffee in Bellingham on the way back! What a sweet trip!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 it's all about the truck border bird!! are you going back this weekend? Sorry I didn't see ya in the forest, come back and we'll climb together this saturday and sunday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncascademtns Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Excellent! I guess Minnesotans do climb. I ran across a couple in Joshua Tree around New Years. I had heard about the climbing on the North Shore. I'll be there next month so I'll take a looky. Any great places to eat in Grand M? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 dberdinka said: Got up at 4:30 AM on Saturday Did double carries in the dark to the start of Merci Me. Discovered the joys of expando aid as the pins I stood on fell out while I placed the next one. Spent my first night in a portaledge. Drank malt liquor. Watched the sunset over Squamish Pooped in a bag! Bailed from 85% of the way up the route. Rode my pig like the be-och it is. Was really, really happy for a little while. Life is good. Beware the cry of the Mud Falcon!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 friday through sunday: walked around for hours, looking at gear and collecting bits of schwag. friday night: watched a new climbing movie and consequently drooled my red bull and vodka all over myself during the spectacular footage of david graham leading some 14d. then drank more red bull and vodka ... 'til they ran out of vodka. then drank beer ... 'til the fire alarm went off and we were told to evacuate the building. saturday: got up after 3 hours of sleep and went to do the wasatch wobble 5k fun run. took off at a heftier pace than usual and quickly realized i was not at sea level anymore. the course was a bitch if there ever was one -- first time i've ever had to walk part of a 5k. usually hills are my strong point and where i get to pass people but i was just one of many walking a particularly brutal one! saturday night: went the finals of the pca bouldering comp. saw sharma climb in person for my first time ever. dude got 2nd place, to the suprise of many. honestly, i love the guy, but he definitely didn't didn't climb well. nels rosaasen kicked ass, busting out with an awesome flash of the final problem 4. it was SICK!!! it was also very cool to see the chicks crank! saturday night: went to the comp afterparty. it was very cool to see so many climbers (famous and not) in one place. sunday: spent way too much money at the prana booth. and i only bought 4 things! the only climbing i got to do was pulling on some plastic in the testarossa's when lynn hill was demo'ing them. but now that the show's over, i'm out to find some real rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgod Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 thelawgoddess said: friday night: [D]rooled my red bull and vodka all over myself...then drank more red bull and vodka ... 'til they ran out of vodka. then drank beer.... saturday: got up after 3 hours of sleep and went to do the wasatch wobble 5k fun run. took off at a heftier pace than usual and quickly realized i was not at sea level anymore. the course was a bitch if there ever was one -- first time i've ever had to walk part of a 5k. usually hills are my strong point and where i get to pass people but i was just one of many walking a particularly brutal one! The vodka wouldn't have anything to do with it, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.