Sabertooth Posted August 4, 2003 Posted August 4, 2003 No, I don't know where you get this. If you really want to make things simple. Here you go Bouldering- 1chalk, 2climb up, chalk, climb, up-chalk twice, dyno Sport Climbing- 1Chalk, 2climb up, 3clip draw, 4clip rope 5repeat Aid- 1place piece, 2climb up aider, 3place piece, 4repeat Trad- 1chalk up, 2climb up, 3 select size piece 4place piece, 5 clip rope, 6 repeat All very simple but which one has more steps involved? Good point. I was comparing the overall task of managing gear and logistics for a wall climb versus a free climb. You are right that the actual art of leading the pitch is not more complex for aid. I was speaking of people staight off the couch that have NEVER climbed before. I saw a guy on his first day climbing ever climb a .11 with no falls. I have never seen a person on their first day climb a .9 crack. Why do you think people don't get on cracks more on TR. Maybe cause its harder. . .hmmmm. . . In certain instances yes. I know some cracks that are easier for their grade than a face climb. Classic Crack is a good example, it is easy. I find face climbs with 5.8 roofs harder. In general cracks are probably harder though. I have fun joking about sportos and boulderers and the stereotypes associated with them and even laugh when you make jokes about us "Elitist Tradsters." After all if there weren't you guys we wouldn't have anyone to think we are better than. That's cool. I make fun of one dimensional climbers who only crag like those joksters on RC.com who say mountains are only for snowboarding. I prefer a variety, but I consider real climbing to be any form; bouldering, sport, trad, snow, ice, glacier, etc. Trad seems more important than sport or bouldering to me, becasue it lets me climb mountains. Peace. Quote
jlag Posted August 4, 2003 Posted August 4, 2003 I haven't seen the photo but I'm betting it's the secret area that's red from fire retardant being baked on the rock from a fire long ago. No way I'd give up the info, the locals around here would find me and beat me down. It's closer than you think. Quote
Fejas Posted August 4, 2003 Posted August 4, 2003 So where excatly is the red zone at? any one? any one? start your own thread, I wanna know where this place is.... Quote
lummox Posted August 4, 2003 Posted August 4, 2003 fejas. like i should be one complaing of speling but your signature been bothering me. do you mean 'hennesey' cognac? Quote
gapertimmy Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 Sphinx said: Just go climb. Or ski. Skiing is the only real sport out there. Quote
gapertimmy Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 i haven't seen this particular rock, though i don't boulder so i don't go looking for rocks like it. to me, the foilage looks and rock look similar to that near the meadow camp area, but more north, towards bend. there are all sorts of little basalt crags like that all over the place in central oregon, you just have to be looking for them. since i don't sit start, i really don't know what makes a good boulder problem.. maybe next time distel is in town i'll show him some more stuff and he can setup some sick projects... i'll take pictures and get rich! besides that, the best bit of knowledge said on this thread was by sphinx. freshiez is the dust of life, without it, all things would be so suck. Quote
bunglehead Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 Is GT back from his vacation? Have fun Timmy? Go to Toulomne? (spelling?) Dija have fun? Didja? Didja? Quote
ryland_moore Posted August 6, 2003 Author Posted August 6, 2003 Finally found out where this place is. Talked to a buddy of mine who used to climb over there and he said it is over by Mt. Bachelor near the athletic club. You hike down along the Deschutes and it is just past the tyrolean traverse on the left hand side. There is osme other bouldering in the area. You have to cross the River to get to it. He also reccomended Skeleton Cave. Is this area still open and if so, how hard is it to get to now that they rerouted the roads? Quote
bunglehead Posted August 7, 2003 Posted August 7, 2003 ryland_moore said: Finally found out where this place is. Talked to a buddy of mine who used to climb over there and he said it is over by Mt. Bachelor near the athletic club. You hike down along the Deschutes and it is just past the tyrolean traverse on the left hand side. There is osme other bouldering in the area. You have to cross the River to get to it. He also reccomended Skeleton Cave. Is this area still open and if so, how hard is it to get to now that they rerouted the roads? Ryland, unfortunately the caves are VERY closed to climbers. If you do go, be prepared for hostility. I used to live out there and watched as the rangers moved rocks under the traverses and told all climbers watching (present company included) that if they got caught using chalk, or moving rocks to make the landing better, they'd get a big fattie ticket. Apparently they want the teenage kids to have a nice environment to have fires and break glass in. It's pretty bogus we got singled out as a problem, but we did, and they're effectively closed. Oh, and it's not too trivky to get to Skeleton cave. Just keep your eyes peeled for the road on the left hand side of the road (China Hat road, FS 19) about 2-4? miles past Boyd cave. If you see a sign for Wind cave, go back. Quote
TIGHE Posted August 7, 2003 Posted August 7, 2003 That's cool someone finally knew where it is. Post any beta if you go explore Quote
gapertimmy Posted August 7, 2003 Posted August 7, 2003 yeay baby, called that one! i'm not sure where the tyrolean is near mt bachelor village though. right now the river trail area near the village and supposidely said boulder is closed due to the southern bridge that is being constructed right there. was just down at the lava tubes this am. indeed climbing in the caves is frowned upon, and as bunglehead stated, this is so folks can have better access for bon fires and spray painting 666 down the tube. nevertheless, they are fun to explore, 3 great tubes right on the south side of china hat road, but my favorite is a bit of a drive from bend, outside of ft. rock called derrick cave. it was once the site of a nuclear fall out shelter for all of central oregon, complete with a cache of food/water and sealed off with an iron door. nasa did some expirements as well in this lava tube where they lit a bunch of railroad tracks on fire and attempted to see if they could sense/see the heat from sattelites, pretty neat o. anyhow, tons of boulders 'round here, maybe i should pick up the past time. if not, i'm always happy to show folks around. Quote
ryland_moore Posted August 7, 2003 Author Posted August 7, 2003 Are the caves, like Skeleton still fun to climb in sans chalk (chalk is aid!), or is all of the trash and the like make it a hideous place to be bouldering? Quote
gapertimmy Posted August 7, 2003 Posted August 7, 2003 i took distel to horse cave, which is totally chalked up, but he didn't seem to impressed. skeleton is pretty trashed, but it has a nice large mouth that lets in alot of light, and i imagine is what made it a popular climbing spot as well as the natural escape from the heat. personally, i think there are some more scenic areas to wank around at like this spot here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/upload/166536-bulder.jpg which shouldn't be chalked up either, or up the bridge creek drainage outside of shevlin park (which has some bolted sport lines that are way to hard for this thrutcher). i can get you some gps waypoints for the latter i have em around here somewhere. Quote
lummox Posted August 7, 2003 Posted August 7, 2003 gapertimmy said: i took distel to horse cave . . . but he didn't seem to impressed. bummer that yur date didnt work out. Quote
bunglehead Posted August 7, 2003 Posted August 7, 2003 ryland_moore said: Are the caves, like Skeleton still fun to climb in sans chalk (chalk is aid!), or is all of the trash and the like make it a hideous place to be bouldering? Skeleton was an AWESOME place to boulder back in the day. Cool in the summer, warm in the winter, and when your hands got fried from grabbing razor sharp basalt (mmm!) you could go for a stroll in the sandy, cool darkness. Three branches to explore too. The funny thing is, the climbers back then were kind of a surly lot, and kept the rifraff from messin' things up, which helped keep the cave a little cleaner. And it would still be a great place to boulder if you could move those damn rock from under the routes that the rangers put under 'em to thwart climbing. I never understood how the mind of the Forest Dis-Service works. They ban a single group of users (because we're high visibility and piss some people off) yet ALL of the petroglyphs in Dry canyon just west of Bend (just off skyliner at 3 mile mark) have been chipped and removed, but I digress. Yeah, It would still be one of my favorite places to boulder if you could move those rocks, but you can't cause that's illegal. (Altering the "natural Environment") Bonfires and broken glass are okay though. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 7, 2003 Posted August 7, 2003 True indeed, bunglehead. Skelly was a kick in the ass. It had a real knack for showing you how weak you were as you plummeted off full hand-sized buckets. Always fun. Some of the best bouldering in Bend is at the Awbrey Butte golf course, though. Of course it's thoroughly not allowed, but if you hit it in the late evenings, or wait 'til late fall/winter when they've closed the course, you rarely get hassled. Whole slew of brilliant problems on quality rock, most with full-value topouts (i.e. they're pretty tall). Quote
Dru Posted August 7, 2003 Posted August 7, 2003 shame about that sherriff and those bats on da way to skeleton cave et al Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted August 7, 2003 Posted August 7, 2003 Derrick Cave All the vandalism in caves pisses me off (the broken glass and bonfires, etc.), and I think that's a much larger problem than climbing sans chalk. Is anyone part of one of the grottos here in the Portland area? I need to start finding out where the lesser known caves are. Quote
bunglehead Posted May 7, 2005 Posted May 7, 2005 Late (!) reply: Yes, the climbs at Awbrey butte are some good shit. There's this one Iron Cross move out there with a one finger mono pull that tends to spank the ego around. That problem has a pretty big topout. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 8, 2005 Posted May 8, 2005 Late (!) reply: Yes, the climbs at Awbrey butte are some good shit. There's this one Iron Cross move out there with a one finger mono pull that tends to spank the ego around. That problem has a pretty big topout. Izzat on the prow above/to the right of the sand trap? Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted May 13, 2005 Posted May 13, 2005 Surfing and flyfishing are also valuable, but not legitimate forms of climbing. Quoting Yvon? Quote
bunglehead Posted May 15, 2005 Posted May 15, 2005 Late (!) reply: Yes, the climbs at Awbrey butte are some good shit. There's this one Iron Cross move out there with a one finger mono pull that tends to spank the ego around. That problem has a pretty big topout. Izzat on the prow above/to the right of the sand trap? Yes. A little to the right of the prow. Quote
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