WA Pass solo stuff?

[Alpinfox]

 

Howdy Ya'll,

I'm heading up to WA Pass in the next hour or so to do some climbing tomorrow with a partner. However, the next day I'll be solo. Any recommendations for some easy 5th class (less than/equal to 5.5) or 4th class scramble/climbs?

 

I've done South Arete on SEWS, but may end up doing that one again if I don't have any better recommendations.

 

Thanks,

-AF

[JoshK]

I'm sure you've thought about it already, but beckey route on liberty bell? Pretty fun stuff for easy climbing. It's 5.6 (I know you said 5.5), but maybe that's close enough for you to go for. It's fairly unexposed as I recall. You will want a rope to rap off, however.

 

 

[JoshK]

Oh, and if you are willing to drive just a few miles, head back down to rainy pass and go up black peak. the NE ridge route (the "technical" route on the peak) is really nice (a little loose down low) and sports some low 5th moves. It's a very scenic ridge climb, makes a great solo, and is a nice peak to bag.

[Alpinfox]

 

Hey JK,

Thanks for the info. I've done the Beckey Route, but not solo. May try that or NE ridge on Black.

 

[JoshK]

I think you'd be very happy if you did the NE ridge on Black. the view to logan and goode is kick ass and the views down the north side of black to the mini-glacier from the ridge are awesome. It's a cool area, with an easy approach through beautiful terrain.

 

let us know what ya do.

[chris]

Try the South Arete on South Early Winter Spire. Only the first pitch or pitch and a half is the crux. I carried 200' of 7mm cord for rappelling back down. Its a fun morning out.

[greenfork]

hey, i got an idea! why don't you try the south arete of SEWS?

[Dru]

has anyone suggested the south arete of sews yet?

[Off_White]

I did this ridgeish thingy on the the south end of the southernmost towerlike formation? I think it might be easy enough to solo?

[fredrogers]

Silver Star is 3rd class. I did it about this time last year and we didn't bother to rope on the glacier. Definitely gets your cardio in, though.

 

There's also the N Face of Kangaroo Temple. I think it's 5.4 or 5.5. A little loose down low and the traverse around onto the west face might be a little spicy sans cord, but it's also in a beautiful setting. Bring a rope to rap.

 

Or you could do the S Arete on SEWS...

[Greg_W]

I've heard good things about the South Arete Route on the South Early Winter Spire. Anyone mention that one yet?

[iain]

You punks think you're so funny repeating that SEWS joke when he's looking for some real info here. You might try the Beckey route on the bell.

[Greg_W]

Iain, you're such a stick in the mud. What about the Southwest Face on Liberty Bell...I think some call it the "Beckey Route"; not sure why.

[dberdinka]

North Ridge of Cutthroat!!! The Pigeon Spire of the North Cascades!! Well almost. Lots of low-5th ridge climbing on perfect granite guarded by a chossy start that probably mid-5th. Oh well.

 

JoshKs recommendation of Black Peak is a good one. Silver Star is good too. Mesachie and Fisher have low-5th class routes on them but they are involved and generally have poor rock.

 

The Twisp River Road provides access to a number of peaks that look to have good 4th to low-5th class ridge routes on them. I think the Skoogs did a lot of stuff back in there. Anyone know what I'm talking about? Anyone been there?

[Attitude]

Diedre.

[Dru]

royal arches, snake dike etc.

[Alpinfox]

Thanks for all the recommendations, though I didn't see any of them except JoshK's before I left.

 

The South Arete on SEWS eh? Didn't think of that one...

 

I climbed the Direct East Buttress and SW Rib on SEWS on Tuesday (and downclimbed the South Arete twice!) with BobbyPeru. We did DEB in 5 pitches (3.5hrs car to summit). Beautiful day, perfect climbing, and a great partner! WOW! We saw two goats and two people. Not a bad ratio. We could see a huge mushroom cloud of smoke from that big fire (Farewell Creek I think?). This was my first experience finding a climbing partner through cc.com and it worked out splendidly! Thanks BP!

 

On Wednesday, BP went off to work on a big project that I'm sure he will tell ya'll about when he gets back, so I headed for the NE ridge on Black Peak. I had an enjoyable hike in past all those lakes, over Heather Pass, and up to the base of the ridge. Traversing the snow was a little slippery in my ratty, old, bald running shoes without crampons, but doable and with a mellow runout. I got about a third or halfway up the ridge (8400') and the rock was blazing hot and burning my hands, so I decided to bail. Black rock + intense sun = ouch. I was also pretty sunburned, and a little intimidated by all the loose stuff on the route and not knowing the descent, so that factored into my decision too. I turned around at noon and was back at the trailhead at 2pm (ran quite a bit on the way out). LOTS of bugs in there, especially around Lewis Lake. Bring bug dope if you go anywhere in that area right now.

 

So I wimped out, but had a great time doing some scrambling and covering some ground.

 

Thanks again for all the recs.

 

Edited July 24, 2003 by Alpinfox

[chucK]

 

Sounds like a great couple of days.

[bobbyperu]

right on alpine fox!!! i had a blast climbing with you, and lookin forward to hittin it up again soon... sounds like you had a good time adventuring around that beautiful area, such a good couple of days in the heavenly wapass scene tough life huh? heres to ya! -kevin

[chucK]

dberdinka said:

North Ridge of Cutthroat!!! The Pigeon Spire of the North Cascades!! Well almost. Lots of low-5th ridge climbing on perfect granite guarded by a chossy start that probably mid-5th. Oh well.

 

Tell me more! How "mid" 5th? Don't have the Beckey Guide here with me.

[klar404]

dberdinka said:

The Twisp River Road provides access to a number of peaks that look to have good 4th to low-5th class ridge routes on them. I think the Skoogs did a lot of stuff back in there. Anyone know what I'm talking about? Anyone been there?

If you be lichen the lichen you'll be lichen it!