snoboy Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Stefan said: TO YOU PEOPLE WHO USE AN EDK: Would you still use an EDK in combination with a 9mm and a 7mm static line? Yes I would/do. I have used it with 10mm and a 7mm. Quote
Bronco Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 sobo said: Bronco said: Anywho, I rapped off a dead shrub backed up with a loose old angle piton set in dirt on Mt. Index once. Shoulda downclimbed or left a new pin. Nah! Hey, I think I may have rapped off the same shrub! No back-up tho. North face of north peak, was it? When my partner joined up, we went to pull the rope, and it seemed to be stuck... then we ended up getting the shrub with it! You ripped out that anchor? Now what are we supposed to do? Seriously though, I think the entire N. Peak is covered with rapslings draped around shrubs in varrying states of decay. It was the last rap on the N. Face and put us at the base of the inital 4th class slabs if you were curious. Quote
ctuller Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 I used the fig8 for years but switched to the overhand a while back. One mankey rap- two pins pounded into what looked like wet kitty litter in the desert. Quote
sobo Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Bronco said: You ripped out that anchor? Now what are we supposed to do? Seriously though, I think the entire N. Peak is covered with rapslings draped around shrubs in varrying states of decay. It was the last rap on the N. Face and put us at the base of the inital 4th class slabs if you were curious. Sounds like it's a bit lower down than the one we ripped out. It was below all the5th class stuff, but there were still 1 or 2 rappels left to hit the base of the 4th class stuff. It was about 10 year ago, too. At one point on that same trip, I had to take a dump so bad. It hit me in mid-rappel and I just couldn't hold it any longer. I locked off, dropped the leg loops, and opened the bomb bay doors. I had the presence of mind to bring the rope up off the deck before the bomb dropped. Waiting for my pardner and then pulling the rope after that rap was the shitz, tho. Quote
iain Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 what the hell are you guys eating out there that produces all these bowl movement problems Quote
iain Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 that would be a pretty miserable way to die. pants down at the bottom of a rap with turds all over you. I can think of better ways to go Quote
sobo Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 iain said: what the hell are you guys eating out there that produces all these bowl movement problems Doing research... PTL data gathering Quote
sobo Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 iain said: that would be a pretty miserable way to die. pants down at the bottom of a rap with turds all over you. I can think of better ways to go The dump was experienced on a different rap, but the same trip. That would have been hideous, tho, if things had gone as you imagine. The mental image is most disturbing... and unsavory! Quote
iain Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 sobo said: Doing research... PTL data gathering ah, well all in the name of research. thank you for contributing your body to science. admirable. Quote
chelle Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Got off route on the descent down the backside of DAFF dome in Toloumne last year. Ended up rapping off several threads through small water holes in the granite that other people had used. Some of them were through pieces of granite that are smaller in diameter than my pinky finger and I have small hands. Backed them up for my heavier partern to descend, then I rapped off the threads that were in place. SCARY was the word!!! Quote
DPS Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 I rapped off my partner in Alaska once, but I think some very skinny bushes I have rapped from in the past were probably worse. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 ~1" dia. tree growing out of an indeterminate amount of dirt/moss at the top of Gandalf's Grip at Broughton's Bluff. Otherwise we would have had to walk off in our climbing shoes, which, yeah right. Quote
Dru Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 i rapped off 2 equalized varnish plates in red rocks, and i have the pic of the anchor too...unfort. not scanned Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Shit, them varnish plates is bomber! At least, the ones that haven't broken off the trade route sport climbs sure are. Quote
Formaldehead Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Shit, them varnish plates is bomber! At least, the ones that haven't broken off the trade route sport climbs sure are. Some would disagree. Layton, for example, may have fallen victim (no pun intended) to bad varnish. After all, it is SANDstone. Quote
Dru Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 i thought the gimp rapped off the end of his rope, what does that have to do with varnish plates breaking? Quote
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