sk Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 okay, so I went out and took my best girlfriend climbing. I had my heart set on a 5.7, and a 5.8 that I realy wanted to lead (slab sporto climbing) but those were being manopolized, so I had to sort of shoot from my hip I tried another 5.8, but it was so suck and ended up talking to thease guys that climb out there all the time. They convinced me to jump on a .10a that is well TOTALY a SWEET LINE. So I did. Now I know that I can't claim that I CLIMBED IT, because I totaly french freed, and rested at every bolt, but it was realy fun. So here is the question, is french freeing a good way to get better on harder climbs with the idea of going back, working it as a project? or am I just fucking off and I should only be leading 5.4? cause I know I can do that clean.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 IF YOU PUSHED YOURSELF THEN YOU ARE GETTING BETTER. MAYBE AFTER YOU HAVE FRENCH FREED THE ROUTE, GO BACK AND TOP ROPE IT. REHERSE THE MOVES AND SHIT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 that and work mayb erest on every other bolt next time then every 3rd, in other words push to go farther before you rest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 FAIL DONT QUIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hakioawa Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Hey this is the SPRAY board! That was damn near a real post. No plab, or snaffles, , or even Track babbling about his inadequacies. I say climb on. I use the three strikes and you are out rule. Three falls, takes or grabbing of gear and I bail. Did that on an accidental attempt on a 5.11d this weekend, but had a blast anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Good for you! I have always thought that climbing one slight grade above what you can do until you feel comfortable with that grade would be the best way to improve. Of course jumping several grades up and then doing what you did works too! P.S. This should not be in spray. This is a legit climbing question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 7, 2003 Author Share Posted July 7, 2003 erik said: IF YOU PUSHED YOURSELF THEN YOU ARE GETTING BETTER. MAYBE AFTER YOU HAVE FRENCH FREED THE ROUTE, GO BACK AND TOP ROPE IT. REHERSE THE MOVES AND SHIT. I did that while I had the rope up on it I will go back and work on it thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 definatly the 8's will be easyer for ya next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 glad to hear your out leading, no matter what it is muffy! one approach you can take is to lead stuff that scares you while you're on it, but that when you're done you're like "whoa; that wasn't so bad". and the more easy stuff you lead, the more comfortable you will feel when you try stuff that is a tad harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 and don't forget to go B I G!...then everything else is trivial!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 way to go shelly!!! keep pushin, be safe - trask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisT Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Nice job Muffy! Very inspiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 If you have the head for it, which it sounds like you do, harder climbs are often the safer alternatives in terms of falling. There is much less chance of injury falling on a .10 than falling on an .8, generally, cuz they tend to be steeper with less features. Well done, Muffy. It is always good to work on things harder than you can climb clean - it gives a measure to your increase in skill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 what does french freed mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 "practically" aiding a free climb. Hang-dogging and gear-yanking by any other words. French free... yeesh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 pulling on gear. (cheaters!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 8, 2003 Author Share Posted July 8, 2003 thelawgoddess said: pulling on gear. (cheaters!) Ya I'm a cheeter But I top roped it after with only one fall. I will shoot to have it clean in the next cupple of months Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Muffy, I think my biggest hindrance in improving as a climber is that I consider everything sacred ("Must get clean. Even if risks are involved. Never grab gear, even if a 15 foot grounder is involved"). I therefore spend a lot of time estimating whether or not I'll get a certain pitch clean, and don't try many because of it. The best climber I know (a solid 5.12 off-width afficianado) has a mantra that he repeats to me whenever I climb with him... "NOTHING is sacred" and he's got the skills to prove that his attitude works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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