climbing question

[sk]

okay, so I went out and took my best girlfriend climbing. I had my heart set on a 5.7, and a 5.8 that I realy wanted to lead (slab sporto climbing) but those were being manopolized, so I had to sort of shoot from my hip I tried another 5.8, but it was so suck and ended up talking to thease guys that climb out there all the time. They convinced me to jump on a .10a that is well TOTALY a SWEET LINE. So I did. Now I know that I can't claim that I CLIMBED IT, because I totaly french freed, and rested at every bolt, but it was realy fun. So here is the question, is french freeing a good way to get better on harder climbs with the idea of going back, working it as a project? or am I just fucking off and I should only be leading 5.4? cause I know I can do that clean....

[erik]

IF YOU PUSHED YOURSELF THEN YOU ARE GETTING BETTER.

 

MAYBE AFTER YOU HAVE FRENCH FREED THE ROUTE, GO BACK AND TOP ROPE IT. REHERSE THE MOVES AND SHIT.

 

 

[whirlwind]

that and work mayb erest on every other bolt next time then every 3rd, in other words push to go farther before you rest

[erik]

FAIL DONT QUIT

 

 

[hakioawa]

Hey this is the SPRAY board! That was damn near a real post. No plab, or snaffles, , or even Track babbling about his inadequacies.

 

I say climb on. I use the three strikes and you are out rule. Three falls, takes or grabbing of gear and I bail. Did that on an accidental attempt on a 5.11d this weekend, but had a blast anyway.

[Stefan]

Good for you!

 

I have always thought that climbing one slight grade above what you can do until you feel comfortable with that grade would be the best way to improve. Of course jumping several grades up and then doing what you did works too!

 

P.S. This should not be in spray. This is a legit climbing question.

[sk]

erik said:

IF YOU PUSHED YOURSELF THEN YOU ARE GETTING BETTER.

 

MAYBE AFTER YOU HAVE FRENCH FREED THE ROUTE, GO BACK AND TOP ROPE IT. REHERSE THE MOVES AND SHIT.

 

I did that while I had the rope up on it

 

I will go back and work on it thanks guys

[whirlwind]

definatly the 8's will be easyer for ya

next time

[thelawgoddess]

glad to hear your out leading, no matter what it is muffy! one approach you can take is to lead stuff that scares you while you're on it, but that when you're done you're like "whoa; that wasn't so bad". and the more easy stuff you lead, the more comfortable you will feel when you try stuff that is a tad harder.

[RuMR]

and don't forget to go B I G!...then everything else is trivial!!!!!!!!

[allthumbs]

way to go shelly!!! keep pushin, be safe

- trask

[ChrisT]

Nice job Muffy! Very inspiring.

[EWolfe]

If you have the head for it, which it sounds like you do, harder climbs are often the safer alternatives in terms of falling. There is much less chance of injury falling on a .10 than falling on an .8, generally, cuz they tend to be steeper with less features. Well done, Muffy.

It is always good to work on things harder than you can climb clean - it gives a measure to your increase in skill.

[carolyn]

 

 

what does french freed mean?

[sobo]

"practically" aiding a free climb. Hang-dogging and gear-yanking by any other words. French free... yeesh!

[thelawgoddess]

pulling on gear. (cheaters!)

[sk]

thelawgoddess said:

pulling on gear. (cheaters!)

 

Ya I'm a cheeter But I top roped it after with only one fall. I will shoot to have it clean in the next cupple of months

[E-rock]

Muffy, I think my biggest hindrance in improving as a climber is that I consider everything sacred ("Must get clean. Even if risks are involved. Never grab gear, even if a 15 foot grounder is involved"). I therefore spend a lot of time estimating whether or not I'll get a certain pitch clean, and don't try many because of it.

 

The best climber I know (a solid 5.12 off-width afficianado) has a mantra that he repeats to me whenever I climb with him... "NOTHING is sacred" and he's got the skills to prove that his attitude works.