Euros are getting sick!

[RuMR]

Ummmm...sometimes you'd really like that piece placed BEFORE you go for the next set of crux moves and you want it high, so you lock off, stretch your short ass (well at least mine...hope that doesn't FREAK you out, Erik), slam the cam or place the nut, clip it and then do the crux w/ a semi tr in place...DUH!

 

Or, he could be referencing just locking the handhold off in a grip as opposed to locking it low to place the piece...

[Lambone]

I always have felt more comfortable trad climbing than sport climbing. It seems less scary for me for some reason. I think because you get to chose where your placements go instead of having to fire through sequences to get to the next clipping spot.... i.e. I like to sew it up

 

I'm pretty much just as afraid to fall sport climbing as I am when trad climbing, and the weight of the rack isn't that much next to the weight of my belly, so it all evens out. The hardest sport climb I've done was only a couple of letter grades harder then the hardest trad climb (niether were relatively hard at all). I think tendon and ab strength, and being afraid to whip are my most limiting factors.

 

On topic, I thought Alex Hubers solo of that 5.13c (or whatever) was hardcore! But not as hardcore as his free onsight of the A5 pitch on Golden Gate with no added gear or bolts. That is some burly/ballsy shit right there...

[Fence_Sitter]

On topic, I thought Alex Hubers solo of that 5.13c (or whatever) was hardcore! But not as hardcore as his free onsight of the A5 pitch on Golden Gate with no added gear or bolts. That is some burly/ballsy shit right there...

 

what about that pitch that was freed at 5.12d ...but the pro was 2 hooks!!! dude is buuuuurlllllleeeeee!!!

[PLC]

By "lock off" I only meant that you need to be in a secure position - secure enough to have one hand reaching for gear, finding the right piece, and placing it. In my experience, this tends to take a lot longer with gear than with quickdraws...

 

As for my "lack of strategy" - I'll freely admit that I've always depended mostly on my light weight and resultingly high endurance more than any real good climbing technique. All the high end climbs I've done have been long roof problems or long overhanding face climbs - basically, endurance fests.

 

Maybe the fact that I don't weigh much of anything is one of the reasons a rack seems to make a big difference to me....

[Dru]

Lambone said:

I always have felt more comfortable trad climbing than sport climbing. It seems less scary for me for some reason. I think because you get to chose where your placements go instead of having to fire through sequences to get to the next clipping spot.... i.e. I like to sew it up

 

I'm pretty much just as afraid to fall sport climbing as I am when trad climbing, and the weight of the rack isn't that much next to the weight of my belly, so it all evens out. The hardest sport climb I've done was only a couple of letter grades harder then the hardest trad climb (niether were relatively hard at all). I think tendon and ab strength, and being afraid to whip are my most limiting factors.

 

On topic, I thought Alex Hubers solo of that 5.13c (or whatever) was hardcore! But not as hardcore as his free onsight of the A5 pitch on Golden Gate with no added gear or bolts. That is some burly/ballsy shit right there...

 

1) he soloed a 13d, "Der Opportunist"

 

2) he did NOT onsight the Golden Gate. that was extensively rehearsed first just like all the Huber free routes on El Cap. they even pre-tick mark the cracks for left and right hand before they go for der rotpunkt.

[Lambone]

well whatever smartypants...

 

Anyone who free climbs A5 without adding bolts is a freaking bad ass.

[Dru]

Lambone said:

well whatever smartypants...

 

Anyone who free climbs A5 without adding bolts is a freaking bad ass.

 

lets not forget that at 5'6" the dude is also one of these suspicious little people

[Szyjakowski]

Dru said:

Lambone said:

well whatever smartypants...

 

Anyone who free climbs A5 without adding bolts is a freaking bad ass.

 

lets not forget that at 5'6" the dude is also one of these suspicious little people

why are little people suspicious...

just cause we can sneak up easier and kick your ass!

[Dru]

its those lucky charms you leprechaun

[Szyjakowski]

I am only part irish...

[Dwayner]

This is a troll for Dwayner and pope. I ain't takin' the bait....yet! What 'bout you, pope?

 

[Sphinx]

Dwayner said:

This is a troll for Dwayner and pope. I ain't takin' the bait....yet! What 'bout you, pope?

 

 

Dwayner, if freeing El Cap isn't 'trad' enough for you, then you have never climbed in your life. Crawl back into your hole and cry about the current state of ethics.

[pope]

BFD say:

 

- 10-year-old Adam Ondra onsights .13b

 

Anything a 10-year-old boy can do can't possibly be remarkable. Just goes to show you that sport climbing is kinderspiel.

[Gaston_Lagaffe]

Since I'm relatively new to trad I have a question for you folks: Is it correct that I hear that trad climbs are often rated by the hardest move on the climbs vs sport which is often rated for the over-all route? Example: A 5.10 trad could be mostly 5.8-9 with a 5.10 move thrown in. Or did I perhaps misunderstand, and was it alpine trad vs sport?

 

Speaking of climbing, what have ya'll planned for this weekend?

[glassgowkiss]

PLC said:

It's not really "apples vs. oranges" - trad is simply much, much harder than sport. You need to carry the extra weight of all your gear, you need to know how to properly place gear, you need to climb confidently above gear you've placed, and you need to be able to lock-off long enough to place the gear. Plus, trad climbs do tend to be rated harder than sport climbs, for a variety of reasons.

 

I've done 5.13 sport routes that were less intimidating - and less difficult - than most 5.10 trad climbs.

oh give me a fucking brake!! what kind of drugs are you on? and what 5.13 did you actually REDPOINT? 5.13 is 5.13, wether trad or sport.

Edited May 16, 2003 by glassgowkiss

[Fence_Sitter]

no doubt..sure there will be a difference from trad to sport, but 5.10 to 5.13 is light years...it is like 4th class to 5.9

[Dru]

Gaston_Lagaffe said:

Since I'm relatively new to trad I have a question for you folks: Is it correct that I hear that trad climbs are often rated by the hardest move on the climbs vs sport which is often rated for the over-all route? Example: A 5.10 trad could be mostly 5.8-9 with a 5.10 move thrown in.

 

 

Where as a 5.10 sport route will be all 5.9 with no crux but called 5.10 anyways because its sustained

[glassgowkiss]

Fence_Sitter said:

no doubt..sure there will be a difference from trad to sport, but 5.10 to 5.13 is light years...it is like 4th class to 5.9

wrong! in both cases routes are rated by the hardest moves and how much energy it took to redpoint a pitch ( and it should be a consensus). I've done enough trad to say: some of the routes (like Daily Planet, Iron Horse, Jap Gardens) are rather easy for a grade. Some of them (like Big Slick, Split Pilar left) are pretty much right on. Let's face it- most of the trad is done on flakes or crack systems, hence if you suck ass crack climbing it will take toll on you and it will feel hard. I just remember a friend of my from Calgary on Split pilar (5.10b). He is an exeptional alpinis/ice/mix climber. he did several hard limestone routes in the Rockies and can redpoint up to lower 13's. He was hanging all over that pitch though. The reason was he sucked ass climbing hand cracks. The point is if you're not good at some type of climbing it will feel hard. But just because it feels hard TO YOU, doesn't mean it is hard in general. If your fingers are weak and you don't climb pin scars something like City Park will feel impossible. If your forte' is pimping nubins at Smith any cave style route will be impossible. I said again and again and again- what it all boils down to is if you're strong or not. Hubers were climbing 10's and 11's during the first couple of weeks in the ditch. A couple of weeks later they do Salathe.

I think trad climbs in many cases are much easier to deal with. You can put as much gear ( most of the time) as you want to, while doing sport routes you have to take multiple whippers above the bolt. yes, some sport crags are bolted like hell, but if you go to places like Verdon or Frankenjura taking 30 or 40 ft fall is a norm. Don't tell me that something like Darkness at Noon at Smith has bolts close together. And if you don't agree with me I'll straighten you right the fuck out

 

[Fence_Sitter]

i had never thought abuot it before, but i climb about the same cracks and sport...i just thought i was an anomaly...i dont climb that hard (10) but i have noticed that people see mee leading 10's on trad and say het justmp on this 11 sport piece and i just flail... i had never thought that they might be even, but it makes sense what you are saying...

[Peter_Puget]

G is pretty much right on except the Left Side is easy for the grade. No one has actually stated the difference between trad and sport. (eg is the B-Y sport or trad?) Depending on your definition some answers and claims by others with differing definitions will be complete BS. One thing no one has addressed are trad routes with difficult route finding and hard to place protection such routes do exist and do require more skills than the ability to bust a move.

 

 

 

PP

[Sphinx]

glassgowkiss said:

And if you don't agree with me I'll straighten you right the fuck out

 

[Dru]

ya he'll give you a killer massage then "forget" to blow ya

[Dwayner]

Sphinx said:

Dwayner, if freeing El Cap isn't 'trad' enough for you, then you have never climbed in your life. Crawl back into your hole and cry about the current state of ethics.

 

Hey "sphinx"/sexy cocoa/patch jr.

 

a) I don't know what you're talking about;

b) I was climbing while you were still peeing in your pull-ups, if not a good while before;

c) I don't live in a hole nor do I cry there. Patch Sr. would tell you to mind your manners.

 

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

pope said:

BFD say:

 

- 10-year-old Adam Ondra onsights .13b

 

Anything a 10-year-old boy can do can't possibly be remarkable. Just goes to show you that sport climbing is kinderspiel.

 

Frank Zappa was a musician of some renown, viewed by some as a great composer, and was fairly popular. At age ten, Beethoven, a fairly well-known composer himself, was tearing shit up on the piano. Clearly, anything a ten-year-old lad can accomplish is unremarkable, and thus we can rest assured that composing music is kinderspiel.

 

Buenas noches, Poop; and bone swah to Dwayno as well.

 

[Sphinx]

Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

pope said:

BFD say:

 

- 10-year-old Adam Ondra onsights .13b

 

Anything a 10-year-old boy can do can't possibly be remarkable. Just goes to show you that sport climbing is kinderspiel.

 

Frank Zappa was a musician of some renown, viewed by some as a great composer, and was fairly popular. At age ten, Beethoven, a fairly well-known composer himself, was tearing shit up on the piano. Clearly, anything a ten-year-old lad can accomplish is unremarkable, and thus we can rest assured that composing music is kinderspiel.

 

Buenas noches, Poop; and bone swah to Dwayno as well.

 

 

DFA you crack me up.