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Dr_Flash_Amazing

Euros are getting sick!

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lets hear about some achevements..

 

sport climbing is cool and all, but i want to hear about sick stuff!

 

like freeing hard aid lines, pushing the alpinsim envelope.

 

my friend onsites .12/.13 trad routes.....

 

that takes way more!!!

 

thx for the update sporto!

 

 

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How is freeing a hard aid line at 5.hard any harder than freeing a hard free line? Except that the aid line is chipped?

 

And how is onsighting .12/.13 somehow harder than flashing V13 or sending .14d?

 

Clip more bolts, crash more pads, viva sportiva! boxing_smiley.gif

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erik said:

achevements..

probably not a word you want to misspell hahaha.gif

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dfa

my point is

 

i dont care what some people can do!! i am more interested in what my homies are up too! ya know??!!!!

 

i support my friends, they support me. i am sure the people you discribed are involved in similar sitmos....

 

stoke yer friends not some person you've seen from a far or just read about!!!!

 

 

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hey homie, got rained of TC yesterday...not surprised are ya?

 

Some boys from Tacoma were launchin huge blocks over by Golden Arch...we were wondering what the f#%@$k they were up to????

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Come on, now E-rik, don't be so narrow in your worldview! The climbing envelope is being pushed! Standards are being expanded! Are we not all climbers? Would you not share a beer with anyone who ties in, boots up, and gets chalky? Indeed. So should we not be stoked for any and all of our climbing brethren's ah-shave-ay-monnts, from Joe Seattle's six-year-old kid's first top rope at the gym to Fred Nicole's V13 flashes to your bro's gear-fiddling ill-a-thons? Yo.

 

wave.gif

Edited by Dr_Flash_Amazing

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i totally agree with you dfa.

 

these are not envelope pushing feats for climbing, these are individual feats.

 

either way................

 

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Ah shit, let us not forget about American Dave Graham. Just sent New Base Line (third ascent) 8C/v15 as well as 12 other problems v12-14. Way to go Dave!!! That skinny little nerd is a badass...unless your an elitist trad guy who rips anyone apart that mentions bouldering...then you would probably just think he is a skinny little nerd. An accomplishment in my book nonetheless.

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I can climb 5.10 sport routes but struggle and epic on 5.9 trad. What's up with that.

 

My buddy Dave says that's because the kind of climbing people used to do is so different than what they do now, and that 5.9 trad was as easy for them as 5.9 sport is for me. I'm not buying it. I think sport routes are rated wrong.

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TGWG

 

who are you talking about? boldering is good fun! i do it everyday i climb, what a great warm up!

 

 

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It's not really "apples vs. oranges" - trad is simply much, much harder than sport. You need to carry the extra weight of all your gear, you need to know how to properly place gear, you need to climb confidently above gear you've placed, and you need to be able to lock-off long enough to place the gear. Plus, trad climbs do tend to be rated harder than sport climbs, for a variety of reasons.

 

I've done 5.13 sport routes that were less intimidating - and less difficult - than most 5.10 trad climbs.

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Sloth_Man said:

I can climb 5.10 sport routes but struggle and epic on 5.9 trad. What's up with that.

 

My buddy Dave says that's because the kind of climbing people used to do is so different than what they do now, and that 5.9 trad was as easy for them as 5.9 sport is for me. I'm not buying it. I think sport routes are rated wrong.

If your trad limit is anywhere close to your sport limit, you are doing great. I wouldn't complain. Still there may be some truth to what you say. The only way to compare a trad route and a sport route of similar grades is to top rope each of them and then decide.

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"trad is simply much, much harder than sport"

 

gimme a break.

 

it's all climbing.

 

if you are weak at some aspect of it maybe you should

practice that more.

 

 

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catbirdseat said:

Sloth_Man said:

I can climb 5.10 sport routes but struggle and epic on 5.9 trad. What's up with that.

 

My buddy Dave says that's because the kind of climbing people used to do is so different than what they do now, and that 5.9 trad was as easy for them as 5.9 sport is for me. I'm not buying it. I think sport routes are rated wrong.

If your trad limit is anywhere close to your sport limit, you are doing great. I wouldn't complain. Still there may be some truth to what you say. The only way to compare a trad route and a sport route of similar grades is to top rope each of them and then decide.

 

i am a way better tra climber then face climber, tho that doesnt say much as i suck in both aspects.

 

hahaha.gif

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erik said:

TGWG

 

who are you talking about? boldering is good fun! i do it everyday i climb, what a great warm up!

 

 

Erik,

Not necessarily you. It was more in regards to the comments made on the "who sent what" thread a couple days ago. bigdrink.gif

Anyway, on to more important things...like squirls snaf.gif Man, squirls are so fucking hilarious. I once saw two squirls chasing each other on some power lines...one of them pushed the other off but it snagged the line with its two front claws. Anyway, the squirl is just hanging there right, and this dog comes and just sits under it waiting for it to fall. The dog was like "fuckin A right!!!" That was so awesome.

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PLC said:

It's not really "apples vs. oranges" - trad is simply much, much harder than sport. You need to carry the extra weight of all your gear, you need to know how to properly place gear, you need to climb confidently above gear you've placed, and you need to be able to lock-off long enough to place the gear. Plus, trad climbs do tend to be rated harder than sport climbs, for a variety of reasons.

 

I've done 5.13 sport routes that were less intimidating - and less difficult - than most 5.10 trad climbs.

 

Maybe it'd be easier if you placed your gear with your arm straight instead of grunting around trying to hold a lockoff like a damn gumby. Honestly, it's a wonder you've climbed 5.13 and yet you display an alarming lack of strategy.

 

[edit]Make that an alarming lack of basic strategy.[/edit]

Edited by Dr_Flash_Amazing

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