bird Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 With a slew of 5.9 cracks under my belt I threw myself at Karate Crack 10a at Smiff and got my holy ass kicked. My hope it that it is a testpiece for the grade. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 bird said: With a slew of 5.9 cracks under my belt I threw myself at Karate Crack 10a at Smiff and got my holy ass kicked. My hope it that it is a testpiece for the grade. yup- 5.9+ Quote
Alex Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Szyjakowski said: bird said: With a slew of 5.9 cracks under my belt I threw myself at Karate Crack 10a at Smiff and got my holy ass kicked. My hope it that it is a testpiece for the grade. yup- 5.9+ Â nah I'd have to opine that Karate Crack really is 10a. It feels about as hard as some of the shorter index hand cracks. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 (edited) yeah but isn't the hard part gettin to the belay.. its been awhile and the jams (i remember) where pretty straight fwd in front. Â and 9+ means 10a Edited May 14, 2003 by Szyjakowski Quote
fern Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Szyjakowski said: and 9+ means 10a  9+ means harder than 9 ... could be 10b or 11a or 15e  I rate all climbs 4th+ Quote
erik Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 fern said: Szyjakowski said: and 9+ means 10a  9+ means harder than 9 ... could be 10b or 11a or 15e  I rate all climbs 4th+  Quote
Dru Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 The Tube at WI3 was a classic WI 3 testpiece harder than many Cdn Rockies WI3 and a few Rockies WI4... Quote
Dru Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 9+ means "look out you are gonna get your ass kicked" Quote
yeti Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 In sqaumish, test pieces/ sandbags are located by a particular first ascentionest: Robin Barley. Â Orfice fish defintley has some tough moves down low but it eases up pretty quickly so I think its not much of a test piece. Â 5.9 test piece: cant remeber the name, barley route three pitch crack 5.9 on the far left of the apron next to calculus crack, maybe the first route on the apron. Â the YEti Quote
Dru Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 yeti said: In sqaumish, test pieces/ sandbags are located by a particular first ascentionest: Robin Barley.  Orfice fish defintley has some tough moves down low but it eases up pretty quickly so I think its not much of a test piece.  5.9 test piece: cant remeber the name, barley route three pitch crack 5.9 on the far left of the apron next to calculus crack, maybe the first route on the apron.  the YEti  St Vitus Dance is really 5.8. not 5.9 so it cannot be testpiece  first route on Apron? you mean before Diedre? Quote
yeti Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 YEti:"maybe the first route on the apron."  what, the second, I remember it being one of the first to go up, not that I was around then but I read it somewhere.  5.8 huh, considering other routes like sparrow and snake rated at 5.9 i would have too strongly disagree.  The YEti  Quote
fern Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 St. Vitus was the first scrubbed route or some other guidebook contrivance. Â it was done in what like 1975? most of the sub 10 apron classics date to the early and mid 60s. Quote
chucK Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Dru said: SPLIT PILLAR IS A JAM CRACK OR SO I HEAR  and Perry's Lieback is really a diagonal undercling    Quote
fern Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 woo check out Alasdair cranking. 'course he's scottish and doesn't know from jamming Quote
Alex Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Â nice picture but ummm....has anyone noticed that there are bolts!! on that clearly-protectable granite crack route? Hardly the definition of testpiece. Thats like bolting Saggitarius or Damnation or.. damn, they don't even pull that kind of shenanigan at Smith!! Â Quote
Dru Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 yeah. he SHOULD be jamming. and he IS underclinging in the first one while he clips up those bolts. Â St Vitus is one of the softest 5.9 around. Campbell guide calls all 3 pitches 5.8s Whereas the crux on Sparrow and Snake are much less secure, and worse pro too, on St Vitus you have gear above your waist for any move you choose. Â Modern Barley routes have bogus grades anyhow, complicated by the presence of aid ("Barley free") bolts at all cruxes Quote
mattp Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Dreamer (at Darrington) is a good 5.9 testpiece in that it has slab, crack and face climbing, you have to place some of your own protection even though it is mostly bolted, it presents significant rope-management issues, and it is long enough that you have to have your game reasonbly well dialed-in or you won't make it. Very few parties who are only competent up to 5.9 are able to pull it off on their first visit. Quote
Sol Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 These are testpeices mind you, not sandbags: Split Beaver 10b, Squamish. Squamish Buttress Crux Pitch 10c, Squamish. South Face Jello Tower 8+, Castle Rock L'worth. Damnation 9+, Castle Rock L'worth. Cruel Sister 10a, Smith. Ham Hocks 5.8, Vantage. 70% of the routes at J-Tree. Â But if you want a sandbag: Dolphin 5.7 , J Tree. I will never forgive my partner for sandbagging me with this one. First climb and lead at J. Tree, I nearly Puked. Still have the scars to prove it. Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Quote
Dru Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Hey I just got shut down by Dolphin a few weeks ago!!! Â Harder than 10a Bird of Fire next to it! Â I thought it was just cause I am suck and have no OW technique! Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 iain said: split image! chimes in dfa  Hey, that's you chiming in, Mr. Sheep-in-the-Hood.  Anyway, apparently when strong Frenchman Marc LeMenestrel visited Smith a few years back, he onsighted a bunch of routes up to .13c or so. The hardest of these onsights, he said, was our little friend Split Image. Just imagine! Must be a pretty ill rig. Quote
jordop Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Oooo, I got a good one. Pos. 4th Street in the Valley. Especially the 2nd (3rd?) pitch 5.7 roof with no feet. Definitely solid 5.7 Quote
Travis Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Garfield 5.7 Â Take your 5.7-climbing friend and/or date up that one only if you want to scare the shit out of them and never climb with them again. Â Not a sandbag, and really fun but if you're not solid at the grade the thought of that swing on the initial traverse is a bit fillyourpants'ish and no one wants their partner backing off on TR due to fear. Â I found that out watching my buddy get all wide-eyed and ask to be lowered rather than clean the next peice. Â Quote
EWolfe Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 The Nose at 11Worth is pretty hard for a .10d, I thought - kicked my ass, and I hiked MF overhang right next to it (.10c). Â Maybe I was tired from MF, though... Â Fisticuffs at J-Tree is a REAL testpiece, fer sure, also Crimping Lessons... Â IMHO Quote
chelle Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 Szyjakowski said: the overhang (PP-orchard rx) 5.8 Â Is this still 5.8? It looked like a part of it recently fell off when I was out there a couple weeks ago? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 14, 2003 Posted May 14, 2003 ehmmic said: Szyjakowski said: the overhang (PP-orchard rx) 5.8 Â Is this still 5.8? It looked like a part of it recently fell off when I was out there a couple weeks ago? that fell off years ago...doesn't change the climb. but actually made it more strait fwd... Â Quote
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