Conditions on Pinnacle Peak (MORA)

[speed]

Has anyone been up to Pinnacle Peak or the Tatoosh Range recently? I was looking the in Ice Climbing in Washington State guidebook and it lists the North Face of Pinnacle as an excellent winter alpine ice climb. Has anyone been up there this time of year?

Thanks for your help,speed

[Cpt.Caveman]

I climbed the North Side of the Castle with friend in January. He said it sometimes forms a short ice climb but there was nothing last winter.

Pinnacle had nothing as well. The North Ridge of Pinnacle looks like a crazy winter adventure. good luck.

[ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[DPS]

I climbed the North Ridge of Pinnacle a few winters ago. There are a number of nice lines that one could take. The east and west faces looked nice too. Which ice guide is that, Dallas Kloke's?

[CascadeClimber]

Oops. Misread...

[ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: CascadeClimber ]

[Cpt.Caveman]

They were all pretty close and doable within a day last year. It all depends on how far on the road you can drive I guess. We made an overnighter but it is not necessary. Good skiing there too.

[ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[speed]

I saw it listed in Jason Martin's guide from this site.

speed

[panther]

Dude my cousins sisters friend said they did Pinnacle like 7 years ago and there was some ice. GO FOR IT! Hope this helps.

[Dwayner]

Greetings from the International Institute of Pinnacle Peak Studies. You want beta? I'll give you some beta! Pinnacle Peak ("the Matterhorn of the Cascades") was my first climb ever and I have since climbed it 139 times by different routes. Here's what I think about winter action: there are three big faces: the south, the northeast and the west. The west face (the one above the summer trail) is vertical "choss" and you will find little of interest there. Steep alpine snow accumulates in pockets and on ledges on the intimidating NE face (above the permanent snowfield between the Pinnacle and Castle Peak). I suppose you could climb it in the winter but having done two routes on that face (including one involving late spring snow on the lower bits), I don't recommend it. The belays are dubious and rock gets worse and steeper the higher you get. If I recall, it was 3 or 4 pitches. The west side of the south face, which is a happy scramble during the summer, can be a big steep snow face when plastered with snow but nothing that would perplex someone who is confident. I've done it unroped a few times but a rappel on the descent might be nice. The north ridge is a good winter challenge. It starts out in a steep chute on the lower east side of the ridge. I had to burrow through a cornice at its top on one occasion. Another chute follows a little further along with a spooky runnout into space, and then some steep snowy rock climbing which is occasionally verglassed. It's about four pitches to the summit. The east ridge is also doable: one 1/2 to 2 pitches to the summit involving some bits of vertical rock. The south face is the easier descent. Do note that the summer approach to the Pinnacle/Plummer saddle is a terrain-death-trap in the winter. The usual winter approach is to the Pinnacle/Castle saddle by traveling the ascending tree'd ridges above Reflection Lakes in such a way to avoid most of the potential avalanchey areas on the way up, and although I've never heard of the Pinnacle/Castle snowfield avalanching, it seems to have the potential, and I've seen stuff come down the NE face of Pinnacle. Also, one needs to be careful getting to and on the south face. It involves traversing across a very large south-facing snow slope that will carry you a couple of thousand feet toward Packwood if it slides. (A skier was killed back there a few years ago.)

For water ice/waterfall stuff? Never seen much up there that would be worth the effort. You probably know that Narada Falls down below and some things up the Nisqually River beyond the glacier bridge occasionally form up for a few days now and then.

Have fun up in that lovely Tatoosh Range, and be safe in that snow! (And the views up there can be spectacular!)

- Dwayner, self-proclaimed King of Pinnacle Peak and Emperor of the Tatoosh Range.

[mattp]

Dwayner has it about right. I've done the N. Ridge a couple of times as a winter climb and it is way fun, not to hard, and a good choice for someone relatively new to mixed climbing.

[Fairweather]

Done both East and North ridges in winter. The East is considerably easier....two pitches plus easy unroped before and after. The steepest part of this climb is up a large pillar which seems to me somewhat detached. I suspect it will fall away someday and I wouldn't want to be huggin it when it goes....just my read; maybe I'm way off.

[Jason_Martin]

Speed,

The route referred to in the guide that Alex and I are working on has been revised. The North Ridge is the preferred route and the route that will be featured in the guide.

Dan Smith and I did that route a few years ago and it was a really fun day out.

Jason

[speed]

Thanks all, I'm going to check it out soon.

Jason: Thanks for all your work on the guide. Any word as to when its going to come out? Do you want any photos?

speed

[Jason_Martin]

We're shooting for next fall on the guide. If you have good photos, email us at wastateice@yahoo.com.

Jason

[Cpt.Caveman]

ice guide to washington. What's the title?

Bootkick your way up this Slurpee ? Cuz shit dont form but once every 3 years I wont buy the shit and will not recommend it to anyone.

[ 12-05-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[goatboy]

Dear Jason Martin,

Bad news for you! Looks like the venerable Captain Caveman has decided not to endorse your product which you haven't published yet.

Does this endanger your publishing chances???

[Thrasher]

Nothing personal but I dont think making monrey off the poor REI folks for a guide to a bunch of climbs that may not form is good style.

[jon]

If you don't like it don't fucking buy it, don't insult these guys considering all the hard work they are putting into it. Chances are they are hardly profiting off of it.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Hey well get all mad bitch. Fuck off

[erik]

hey gurlz, i don't really believe in an ice guide either, but as jon said they are putting in a lot of hard work to get this done. i have even contributed to it, so if oyu got a problem bring it on all you little whiney gurlz, specailly you cavebitch!!!!

jason when you get back email and we will go climbing. but i am still sketchy!!!!!!!!! cause we're all gonna die!!!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Fuck the guide and fuck you too erik

[Cpt.Caveman]

here is my topo --> Put that in the guide

[ 12-05-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[jon]

Cpt. should open up the Caveman School of Hostility, football coaches from all over the country could come and learn how to fire the team up and get all angry and shit like the Raiders coach. You could be rich and work your own schedule!

[Cpt.Caveman]

I hate the raiders I am training with Bonzo

I hate everything

[ 12-05-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]