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Posted (edited)

They might be "all the same" but I still have my favourites...

 

DMM Wallnuts. And as a second set when neccesary, Metoulius Curve Nuts.

 

Really I think whatever you use a lot becomes "the best."

 

Oh yeah - mostly Squamish Granite.

Edited by snoboy
Posted
cracked said:

They're all the same. I use BD, I'm used to them. Only probem is the color-coding. The ABC Huevos are better in that respect.

 

BD's be color coded this year

Posted
cracked said:

Not on their website. You mean all the nuts will be anodized like the ABCs? That would be sweet.

 

The catalog picture has them anodized, as does the website text.

 

"Stopper Set This year we’ve anodized our Stoppers for easy identification and made them available individually or in a convenient (and less expensive) set that includes Stoppers #4 to #13 and a “bonus” Oval Biner. "

The colors aren't as bright as the ABC's

Posted

Another vote for WC rocks and very close second Metolius then DMM and Frost.

For specialized nuts…nothing fit like HB offset second will be the DMM peanuts

On the straight micro, I like the Metolius, BD, RP, and HB (in that order)

I just cannot stand BD stoppers

cantfocus.gif

Posted

For granite climbing, the Frost Sentinel's are the best I've used. They come with either a long or short wire. The long is supposed to be so that you don't have to use a sling for free climbing. The short are supposed to be for aid climbing. The short are like the BD and the long are way long. They are very difficult and awkward to place when you get into the midsize and larger nuts as the wire is not stiff enough for this purpose.

 

For general, all-around, I like BD. DMM's and WC stick a little too well for me, especially the Super Rocks. The regular Rocks are OK. Since the ABC's and Smiley's are direct take-offs of BD, they all work about the same.

 

For difficult and small, I think they all work about the same. BD coppers, RP's, HB offsets (a little better in weird aid situations with flares).

Posted
PONCHO&LEFTY said:

Have a set of stoppers and Wild country's. Bd's are much better in my opinion. Wild Country's lack offset taper in the sidways position.

 

and how often do you even use the sideways position? in 12 yrs it has never been an issue confused.gif

Posted

i like all the nuts i got. and you know why, cuz i no matter what the brand i am trying to place, its gonna fit or it ain't.

 

plus most of mine are booty or some sort.

 

 

Posted

yeah erik i dont want to hear about how you place your nuts in man booty in the sideways position a lot smileysex5.gif

 

go back to duelling with iain for #5!

  • 2 years later...
Posted
PONCHO&LEFTY said:

Have a set of stoppers and Wild country's. Bd's are much better in my opinion. Wild Country's lack offset taper in the sidways position.

 

and how often do you even use the sideways position? in 12 yrs it has never been an issue confused.gif

In flared and incipient cracks, such as water runnells, BD's and Smileys, in fact all nuts except WC can work in this mode where nothing else will (except for perhaps small tricams). I'd never buy the WC for this reason.
Posted

WC Rock then DMM Walnuts

 

Hate BD = they're too short and don't wedge well in granite IMO

 

Squamish and Index locally

 

Micros I like the BDs and DMM peanuts

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