Justin_RR Posted March 16, 2003 Posted March 16, 2003 Was wondering what the crevasse and avalanche situation looked like on the Ingraham glacier and icefall. I've never been on the mountain before, so are these objective hazards very substantial at this time of year on this route? I'm thinking snowbridges would be consistenly solid. How abou the seracs? Is Disappointment Cleaver a safer rout to avoid the upper Ingraham? Thanks. -Justin Quote
Dan_Larson Posted March 16, 2003 Posted March 16, 2003 Right now I would bet the avalanche situation is EXTREME. You should probably hook up with someone experienced in acessing those things. Do not under estimate Rainier at all.How new are you? Learn the basics at least ( belaying , tying yourself in,crevasse rescue) before you go with someone else . Had a guy totally lie about his experience . I found this out at 1 am when I tied him into the rope . Good thing we were only following the ditch from muir on up Quote
To_The_Top Posted March 16, 2003 Posted March 16, 2003 The Ingraham Direct would be the way to go, or Gibraltar Ledges route might be a go. I would think the DC would not be in. It has snowed 4-7 feet since I was near that area a few weeks ago (I only went to Muir), and the DC would probably be out, but you can access the route above the cleaver. Dont underestimate the crevasse situtation because it is winter, the snow bridges may be dubious and you may not even know you are on one. The glacier moves all the time, so even though it has snowed it doesnt necessarily mean there are no or strong snow bridges. My only best peice of advice is to hook up with someone with good experiance on glacier travel (unless you do) and pick a really good weather window as it gets really bad up there at this time of the year. This site updates every day on the conditions: weather on Rainier . Also expect to be alone on the mountain with no easy way up. Here is the local climbing reports put out by Mount Rainier National Park: MRNP climbing . I would plan on having backup plans at this time of the year, as previously mentioned about the avalanche forcasts check here: NWAC . TTT Quote
catbirdseat Posted March 16, 2003 Posted March 16, 2003 Don't expect any current route report information out of the Park Service. They don't publish it in the winter. You might get something out of them if you call down to Longmire. The Ingraham was very straightforward when we did it last month. There weren't any seracs that looked like they were waiting to tumble, although the headwall was steep. You want to wait until the weather has been stable for several days in a row and no new snow for several days. There are all sorts of good trip reports on this forum. Go read them and come back if you have any other questions. Quote
Justin_RR Posted March 16, 2003 Author Posted March 16, 2003 Yep, it stinks to have no park service reports this time of year, but thanks for the hint on Longmire and y'all for the first-hand info. Trust, me, I got my eyes glewed to the NWAC and NOAA reports every day. -Justin Quote
To_The_Top Posted March 16, 2003 Posted March 16, 2003 It may stink that there are no updates at this time of the year because, well not very many people go up in winter. The route is up to you, and maybe post a trip report after you do it. Like CBS said look at trip reports in the Rainier section. There is little beta at this time of the year because you will make the beta, and be careful. Glad to see that you check the sites already and I realized that there are no updates on the route but at the MRNP site does give you insight on what to prepare for, everything on how to register to what to prepare for. If you want to know how to get ahold of someone that is up there alot, pm me. TTT Quote
Lambone Posted March 16, 2003 Posted March 16, 2003 (edited) Hi Dan, I'll pm you! Edited March 17, 2003 by To_The_Top Quote
Bug Posted March 16, 2003 Posted March 16, 2003 Justin_RR said: Yep, it stinks to have no park service reports this time of year, but thanks for the hint on Longmire and y'all for the first-hand info. Trust, me, I got my eyes glewed to the NWAC and NOAA reports every day. -Justin I was going to do Gib Ledges this weekend but the Avalanche danger was extreme. There was a great TR about the route a couple weeks ago. Look it up in the Becky book. It is the prefered route in winter conditions. It is steep in places though so I am not saying it is the easiest or least technical. I am also watching the weather for a window. I am limited to weekends but if you want to talk about hooking up PM me. Quote
cracked Posted March 16, 2003 Posted March 16, 2003 Gratuitous to say the least, Lambone. I reread the post several times and failed to find the condescending tone. And having a partner lie about his/her ability is understandably frustrating. If this post is truely "the most condecending peice of garbage" you have read around here, then you have obviously not read any of the posts in Spray. What about the "speed record" thread? It sounds like you feel threatened. Quote
ryland_moore Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 The last few years, the ingraham is the best route until early to mid June (approx.). However, I have never done it this time of year, but would imagine that the glacier is probably in good condition and the route is straight forward. Talk to folks who have been up there this season, PM Mike at MRNP and see what he has to say, and cross your fingers for a good weather window! Good luck! Quote
Skisports Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 Rainier this time of year is still consider off season.. but what is off season.. If you get a good warm spell and then a good cooling trend hell I would be up there with yeah.. eh I don't about that because rainier isn't the peak that I would perfer to do with my free time.. But good luck If don't have anyother plans you can go for a good ski down paridise glaicier on your way out from muir Quote
Dan_Larson Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 (edited) OK Lam Edited March 17, 2003 by To_The_Top Quote
erik Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 hahaha larson turning the shit back on you people!! Quote
Justin_RR Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 Skisports said: Rainier this time of year is still consider off season.. but what is off season.. If you get a good warm spell and then a good cooling trend hell I would be up there with yeah.. eh I don't about that because rainier isn't the peak that I would perfer to do with my free time.. But good luck If don't have anyother plans you can go for a good ski down paridise glaicier on your way out from muir Any suggestions for other summits this time of year? I'd like to do Leuthold's on Hood, but that's gonna be avy prone right now, too. -Justin Quote
Lambone Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 (edited) Edited March 17, 2003 by To_The_Top Quote
AlpineK Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 In all fairness to Dan. When I see someone from Chicago, Il making a post about looking for a partner to climb Rainier in a winter bad weather cycle the gumby alert goes off in my head. I'm sorry if I'm making assumptions Justin. I've read the headline, "Climbers from the state of **(non NW state)** trapped/die while attempting a climb of Mt Rainier," a few times. Have fun and be safe! Quote
Dan_Larson Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 (edited) Let take this fight to spray! Grrrrr! Edited March 17, 2003 by To_The_Top Quote
Skisports Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 Justin_RR said: Skisports said: Rainier this time of year is still consider off season.. but what is off season.. If you get a good warm spell and then a good cooling trend hell I would be up there with yeah.. eh I don't about that because rainier isn't the peak that I would perfer to do with my free time.. But good luck If don't have anyother plans you can go for a good ski down paridise glaicier on your way out from muir Any suggestions for other summits this time of year? I'd like to do Leuthold's on Hood, but that's gonna be avy prone right now, too. -Justin My spring break starts next week and I have no plans right now of were to go just people to climb with because you drive were it is safe to climb. If I have to drive down to red rocks or banff whatever. Just can't prodict were to climb in the cascades unless you are heading out tomarrow. And don't know where I could climb tomarrow Quote
Rodchester Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 In all fairness to Dan. When I see someone from Chicago, Il making a post about looking for a partner to climb Rainier in a winter bad weather cycle the gumby alert goes off in my head. I'm sorry if I'm making assumptions Justin. I've read the headline, "Climbers from the state of **(non NW state)** trapped/die while attempting a climb of Mt Rainier," a few times. Have fun and be safe! I agree.......nothing wrong with asking in that situation. Quote
Duchess Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 (edited) Geez, you guys...Justin just asked a couple of questions and you've dragged him into gang warfare. Justin, at this moment, avalanche conditions are moderate to high above 7000'. That changes every day as the weather and winds change. The Ingraham Direct is the preferred route in the winter, people tend to avoid the DC until early to mid summer. I think something like 18 people have successfully summited the Ingraham this winter? Route finding should be pretty straightforward for the whole route, but pay very careful attention to snow and weather forecasts. As pointed out elsewhere in this forum, the Ingraham icefall has been the scene of several of North America's worst mountaineering accidents, caused by avalanches. Just play it conservative. In teh off-season, there's not a whole lot of people (other climbers or rescuers) around if something were to happen. And ignore these guys squabbling about whether or not Rainier is a hike or climb. All that matters is that it is a serious, beautiful mountain, and it's not an easy climb/hike/whatever. Also, the NPS does not have current route information right now; i don't think that anyone has been much above muir in quite awhile on account of storms, snow, and weather. Read other trip reports and send some PMs to people who wrote them. Good luck! Edited March 17, 2003 by Duchess Quote
mattp Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 I would guess that one reason it may be the case that climbers from out-of-state get into trouble more than locals (if that is so) might be that they are less likely to turn around or cancel their climb when the conditions are less than optimal. If you live here and you have a partner or two who are also local, you can wait for a weather window more easily but if you're going to fly out here from Chicago, you purchase your plane tickets a month in advance and can't so easil postpone your climb by a week or two. Once on the mountain, the same factor will come into play: the local can turn around while telling themself that they'll be back next week. The vacationer cannot. Quote
Justin_RR Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 AlpineK said: In all fairness to Dan. When I see someone from Chicago, Il making a post about looking for a partner to climb Rainier in a winter bad weather cycle the gumby alert goes off in my head. I'm sorry if I'm making assumptions Justin. I've read the headline, "Climbers from the state of **(non NW state)** trapped/die while attempting a climb of Mt Rainier," a few times. Have fun and be safe! The Chicago location I put down is just where I am *unfortunate* enough to go to school. I'm from Oregon and grew up in the Cascades climbing volcanoes. Just haven't been up north yet to check out those fine Washington mountains. And while I won't pretend I'm the oldest, rime-ice-encrusted gapher around, but I've done my beginners share of snow slogs and fourteeners (Snowmass and Capital in Colorado...yeah, I know they're the rockies and really don't count compared to our oh so manly Pacific NW peaks). Thanks for all the advice. Was just trying to get a sense of what generally to expect up there this time of year. -Justin Quote
cracked Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 Do the Maroon Bells Traverse or the Bell Chord couloir on Maroon instead of the boring hikes up the typical CO 14s. The Bells are fun. Quote
Justin_RR Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 cracked said: Do the Maroon Bells Traverse or the Bell Chord couloir on Maroon instead of the boring hikes up the typical CO 14s. The Bells are fun. Yeah, we passed right by the Bells. *Magnificant*. But we didn't have time to climb them and some in our party weren't really ready for that level of climbing. -Justin Quote
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