Jim Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Off for a long weekend to JTree. I've climbed here a few times but really don't know it well and have mostly climbed in Hidden Valley and at Echo Rock. Seems the ratings are stiff down there so I feel comfortable up to 5.9 lead but can claw my way up a 10.c as second. Going to meet a friend on Friday afternoon who has never been there but can lead to 11a. So - suggestions on leads up to 10 say? Any good multipitch routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Bird on a Wire on Lost Horse Wall Walk on the Wild Side on Saddle Rocks Illusion Dweller in the Real Hidden Valley That would make a hit weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Imaginary Voyage in Lost Horse - one short section of 10d laybacking, but the most intimidating part, the roof, is actually pretty chill. Second on the illusion Dweller You'll dig the classic 5.9's Pope's Crack and Touch and Go in Echo Rock if haven't done them already. And Heart and Soul in echo is killer 10a! Off White, have you ever done Vampire at Taquitz?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 If you're looking at 10's, Rubicon at 10c is wonderful. I'd say it was relentless, but then Glassgowkiss would get after me. Run For Your Life in the Real Hidden Valley is a great face climb. Ed, I haven't done the Vampire, but if I had to pick one route at Tahquitz & Suicide I'd like to do, that would be it. Last time I was there was 23 years ago, and I found the prospect a little intimidating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted March 14, 2003 Author Share Posted March 14, 2003 Sounds like Rubicon is a lead for my friend. I'll look these up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 A pleasant day of climbing can be found in the comic book area. Plenty of stiff 9s. It's warm and not too windy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Hall of Horrors area has two classic 10a's: Diamond Dogs and Exorcist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Grit Roof although i heard the flake broke off and its harder journey under Gateway Rock with full moon, Chongo and fungus Colorado Crack Popes Crack Room to Shroom is super easy 5.9 more like Squamish or Washington 5.7 Aiguille de J Tree Hobbit Hole Offwidth V0+/V1 (5.10+) Bachar Cracker of the Desert V3 (i cant pull the lip) Touch and Go 5.9 Stick to What 5.9 slab Moosedog Tower 3p 5.9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Comic Book, Exorcist, Illusion Dweller, and Sail Away. The best climb ever is a 5.6 called swiss cheese...seriously. In fact, the area that swiss cheese is in has tons of great shorter climbs. You can blitz the area. BTW, zero or one stars means awesome climbing w/ a Squamish rating. 3 stars is ultrasandbagged and rough. 4 stars is kinda sandbagged w/awesome climbing. 2 stars=choss. 5 stars=solid rating, awesome climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 If you're going to look at Rubicon, you should also look at Bird of Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 There's a super fun route on I think intersection rock. You turn a roof up high and traverse a little to the right; it's like 5.7. Anyone remember the name? On the same rock just to the right is a 5.8 or 5.9 that's really cool too. How's that for good beta? Dog Leg is really fun, 5.7(?). And there's another fun 5.moderate in the area, just left or right of Dog Leg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocksanyone Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Jim said: So - suggestions on leads up to 10 say? Any good multipitch routes? I have a friend who has been living there for the past two months. That can happen when you don't have a job...She is down in Hidden valley, her name is Michele Beaty. You can't miss her. Long blond hair and quite good looking! Totally a wonderful person! She would be more that happy to help you guys out. Have fun! I'm hoping to get down there next month for a week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 I saw Bridwell guiding there last weekend. Some gumbies, totally oblivious to who he was, asked him if he had any extra water and he said he didn't but he had beer. Wish I'd seen your hot blond friend there too bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 specialed said: I saw Bridwell guiding there last weekend. Some gumbies, totally oblivious to who he was, asked him if he had any extra water and he said he didn't but he had beer. outstanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted March 14, 2003 Author Share Posted March 14, 2003 Thanks for all the advice. I'm printing this out and then I'm off. Let you know what I flail on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 not to drift or any thing but, special is that a Pehoie button picture under you name... mmmmmmmm......... its been awile since i've wondered the southern deserts in search of the green god... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted March 18, 2003 Author Share Posted March 18, 2003 Thanks to those who provided suggestions. My fingers are ripped, I'm a bit achey, and I tweaked a muscle in my shoulder, but it was fun. I don't know the area well so it was good to have suggestions. Rubicon - arhhhh Touch and Go - ok overhang bypass - spooky heart and sole - liked this pope's crack - need to jam better, didn't finish lead. double cross - this is 7+? Aiguille de J Tree - couldn't find it!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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