first ascent [TR] Whatcom Peak - “Castle in the Sky” FA of the South Buttress of Whatcom 5.10b TD 08/06/2022

[Sam Boyce]

Trip: Whatcom Peak - “Castle in the Sky” FA of the South Buttress of Whatcom 5.10b TD

Trip Date: 08/06/2022

Trip Report:

Yeeehaw! What a weather window it’s been! From Aug 5-7th Lani and I climbed the first ascent of the south buttress of Whatcom. This route came as a suggestion from Wayne. Thanks! It was excellent climbing on great rock in the most perfect of settings. I would say it’s one of the finer alpine routes I’ve had the pleasure of climbing in the cascades! We would highly recommend the route! There is certainly some choss and some runout but it is the pickets. I have to start work today so a hasty trip report will have to do. Here’s a link to the report I wrote up. Sorry for the forced click through, I’m rolling out the door and don’t have time to format photos for CC. Thanks for the stoke y’all! Go get it while the gettins still there! 
 

https://www.theclimbingguides.com/post/castle-in-the-sky-first-ascent-of-the-south-buttress-of-whatcom-peak-iv-5-10b-td

Gear Notes:
Single rack .1-3 doubles .2-1 full set of nuts. Optional #2 and 3 KB’s. Single 60M rope

Approach Notes:
We took easy peak to the imperfect impasse.

[olyclimber]

The hits keep coming!   Got get it!   I'm putting it near the top of the list to add HEIC support to the board, as it seems to make a difference if we get tasty pics or not.

[manninjo]

Killer season in the Pickets, 3 new routes and a 2nd ascent to boot? This line looked a little improbable, way to piece it together!   

[JasonG]

@Sam Boyce and Lani are taking the range by storm!!  Pretty impressive string...

[lunger]

Yes! Stared at that one and thought it probably more difficult. Strong work, team. 

[wayne]

Yes! Yet another great adventure wow. I’m almost completely out of ideas now! I am saving one idea though for myself and Mike Layton though. 
The “Golden Age of Cascades Climbing “ is still going on! Congratulations again you guys.

[Michael Telstad]

Saw your van on our way up to Newhalem Thursday morning! Had a hunch you'd be doing something cool out there. Nice work!

[John_Roper]

Matt  Lemke has a great photo of this buttress from Perfect Pass:

https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8035967#&pid=605a92381deab5b6734adaabf6ea665a

Looks like the head and trunk of an elephant (complete with eye) with floppy ears on either side.

Edited August 12, 2022 by John_Roper

[rat]

Nice job. Does your line take the buttress on the left in Matt's photo with your "mega gully" separating it from the slightly shorter but steeper buttress on the right? Thanks.

[Sam Boyce]

5 hours ago, rat said:

Nice job. Does your line take the buttress on the left in Matt's photo with your "mega gully" separating it from the slightly shorter but steeper buttress on the right? Thanks.

Here are some high res photos that We got on Joe’s camera. I drew in our route line and put dots at all of the belays. 

[Sam Boyce]

Photo dump. These are kind of in order (reverse order that is, starting at the top and working down to the bottom) 

[John_Roper]

Sam, please draw your line on Matt Lemke's photo.

[Sam Boyce]

30 minutes ago, John_Roper said:

Sam, please draw your line on Matt Lemke's photo.

Hopefully this helps. The lower part and traverse pitch are compressed at that angle so it’s probably not exact, but this should show the upper part well. We climbed that giant cleft at the top of the wall for 2 long pitches and were surprised not to find loose rock. It ended up being a lowish angle (low fifth) water polished slot canyon. 

[mthorman]

Nice!!  Looks like you guys had great weather!

[Summit_Rolos]

Wow, very cool, nice work!