richard_noggin Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 When climbing editor JT chopped the route in question he was approached by the first ascentionist he lied about chopping the route later when it come to light he was in fact seen chopping the route one of his reasons was that the crack portion that was lead with gear was dirty and had to be cleaned so was not a worthy route. Pretty lame not standing up for his actions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 its in extreme alpinism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 The award that burned me the most was the award for Ice. It was given to Will Gadd for Musashi (M12) and in the process they passed over Rolo Garibotti and Bruno Sorzac climbing Slipstream, Polar Circus and The Weeping Wall in a day. Honestly, which is a more impressive effort on ice. Gadds route is impressive certainly, but I dont think you can group these two in the same category and give the award to a mixed climb that was worked for a period of weeks and months over the effort and drive required to pull off 2 grade V's and a grade VI in a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 'twas elsewhere first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Yep, actually on the exit cracks of the Eiger Nordwand. "As his partners watched his 24 sketching crampon points 40 feet off the belay on the Exit Cracks of the Eiger, Allan Bradley yelled "I'd kill for a pizza." His partners figured he was a real hard case. In reality, Allan whimpered "I'd kill for a piece of pro", but the wind snatched away the last syllable." Twight. I forgot my copy of EA at my parents' house, so this is not quite verbatim. Anybody with a copy around to correct my errors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 The award that burned me the most was the award for Ice. It was given to Will Gadd for Musashi (M12) and in the process they passed over Rolo Garibotti and Bruno Sorzac climbing Slipstream, Polar Circus and The Weeping Wall in a day. Honestly, which is a more impressive effort on ice. Gadds route is impressive certainly, but I dont think you can group these two in the same category and give the award to a mixed climb that was worked for a period of weeks and months over the effort and drive required to pull off 2 grade V's and a grade VI in a day. Â Â you should say 'which is a more impressive effort on ice tools' cause musashi only has about 10 feet of ice at the end. Â quite honestly when you look at all the talent that tried musashi and couldnt do it i trhink it is the harder of the 2 to pull off. i have no doubt gadd, house, and lots of others could also do the fast linkup. there are lots of guys in the rockies that can do any one of those routes in under 3 hours so the big deal is getting the rappels and driving fast enough to link them up. Â i am surprised project mayhem was not nominated in the walls category although i guess he finished it last year if its in this years aaj. and fa quantum mechanic as a trad contender? maybe yuji or alex hubers onsights of it are worthy but i doubt the fa was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 I guess that was my point in asking which was a more impressive effort on ice, since Gadds route cant really be considered an ice route. I guess I just tend to be more impressed by folks moving fast and climbing big committing routes in good style rather than rehearsing bolt protected moves in a no committment environment. I have no doubt that Gadds route would be the harder of the two to pull off for todays Rockies hardman but it should have been in a mixed category rather than ice. When you say there are a host of people who could duplicate the linkup it makes me wonder why no one else has (or have they?). Others may be capable but not many are willing to endure the suffering it would take or expend the necessary energy. The selection for the winner in this category is a good example of how mainstream climbing and related coverage is gravitating towards things like bouldering, sport climbing, and pure diffuculty, and away from big scary routes in the mountains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 The award that burned me the most was the award for Ice. It was given to Will Gadd for Musashi (M12) and in the process they passed over Rolo Garibotti and Bruno Sorzac climbing Slipstream, Polar Circus and The Weeping Wall in a day. Honestly, which is a more impressive effort on ice. Gadds route is impressive certainly, but I dont think you can group these two in the same category and give the award to a mixed climb that was worked for a period of weeks and months over the effort and drive required to pull off 2 grade V's and a grade VI in a day.  hey climzalot  did sorzac and garibotti, climb those routes before their impressive feat???   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Except there's plenty of coverage of big, scary mountain action. DFA knows this, because he puts off reading about half of every issue of Climbing or R&I because it covers alpine stuff. Anyway, just as sport climbing has ushered in the freeing of big-wall routes and hard stuff in the mountains, so will this mixed business lead to fantastically sick achievements in the alpine, the surface of which is just getting scratched. Wait and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Erik - Not sure man. I was actually wondering that myself. If they had, it would certainly take some of the glimmer away but not all. Do you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 hey climzalot did sorzac and garibotti, climb those routes before their impressive feat???  Uh-oh, I think I can see whre this is going... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 there have been lots of similar linkups in the past - like weeping pillar, polar circus and curtain call was done in a day in 2001- that actually sounds physically harder but less enduro to me- but many climbers (like sean isaac) refuse to climb under seracs which removes slipstream from their consideration. wheras, when ben firth says musashi is twice as hard as a m11, then DAMN THAT SOUNDS HARD!!!! Â i would have put howse of cards, and Eric Dumerac's route on Kitchener with 50m of WI7+/8, 30 degree overhanging ice, on contender for both ice and alpine climbs of the year. the latter has a low to non existant spray qquotient tho so i bet the climbing mag did not even hear of it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 What about Ice Porn, that was a pretty balls-out, mixed/alpine route. I bet they didn't even look at that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Erik - Not sure man. I was actually wondering that myself. If they had, it would certainly take some of the glimmer away but not all. Do you know? Â nopes that why i was askin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 when ben firth says musashi is twice as hard as a m11, then DAMN THAT SOUNDS HARD!!!! Â he didnt do it so therfore his thoughts on the route are only just specualtion. so do theze guys posse up at the stanley headwall and just beta spray the day away??? Â (icannotclimbm12,m11,m10etcbutamalwaysjustwondering) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 ben firth did the 3rd ascent. leashless wearing carhartts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 But leashless is easier! According to Gadd. I did, however, notice that even Gadd used leashes on Howse of Cards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 yas when you are 2 days up it sux to drop a tool. not like your belayer can tie you off, go get it and throw it up to you, like happened one time on musashi!! Â incidentally, you can see in the photo of siguniang, that paul ramsden was using uMBILICALS!!!! negative style points there even if they did just win the piolet d'or for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 Didn't some french guy drop a tool or two on the Blanchard route on Robson because he wasn't used to leashes anymore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 yup, frenchman Phillipe Pellet, according to rock and ice he dropped two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 What Dean P. did on the Half Dome and El Cap is pretty impresive. I think it should have got the trad award. As for Beth, Country Boy is mostly a face type style climb. And there is some fixed gear in it. And how is pinkpointing really trad? That turns it into a clip up. So Dean should have got the trad and someone else for the big wall. The rookie award was pretty sweet. The runner up for the rookie award, Russ M., had a pretty impresive accomplishment also. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 I think Dean's linkups in El Cap are more impressive than a Slipstream / Polar / Weeping Wall linkup. Much harder (and probably just as dangerous) to climb El Cap in three hours than Polar Circus or Weeping Wall. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 How the hell do you drop a tool then go and do it again on the same climb?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 Just when I was about to abandon hope of climbing posts on the site we are finally talking about climbing. Â What I want to know is how mixed climbing, where you can clip bolts, is so much more "extreme" and difficult than sketchy hard ice where the pro is marginal or psychological. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 I don't now if it is. But i've done any modern mixed so wtf do i know.  But check this out http://www.m9ice.com/video1.htm  That fall at the end looks tasty, I would hate to be his belay slave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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