jja

From John Long: Solid, Redundant, Equalized, No Extension

lyco..... is a good trad climb. it's a corner crack and will take as much gear as you own. Anchors at the top to rap off of. At smith also consider super slab by the red wall area. It's 3 pitches (5.6). Only downside I can think of for a new leader is the second pitch, though easy (5.0-5.2) is a slab traverse, with minimal placement opportunities. You could always rap after the first pitch though.

I'll throw in a second for timL, and all the other rope guns who got me up some stellar rock this summer and inspired me to push my limits on lead. ... and the coolest cats award goes to Jeremy M. and Frank H. for letting me jump in on their TC climb literally 5 minutes before heading up for the first couloir. You guys rock J.M., I still owe you 20 bucks for Gustav's I've done something almost every weekend this year, and haven't had a bum partner yet.

the msr's dark red color is also great for melting snow in the sun. just fill it up with snow, leave it out while you're climbing, and it'll be water when you get back.

enough what?

cause people keep posting even though they have nothing to say

Actually, I think it was Joe Pesci in "Casino." What do I win? You win nothing, it was goodfellas .. an all time classic. How the fuck am I funny, what the fuck is so funny about me? Tell me, tell me what's funny!

You're all a bunch of wimps. Friday was dry, Saturday was mostly dry - ok it drizzled a little bit at times - but the rock stayed dry all day. Friday night fire and beer, Saturday night fire, beer, horsecock, slide shows, and rain. Sunday morning rain, and some more rain, and early morning bail back home. Met some good folks, climbed, ate too much, drank too much, and had a great time.

try the Post Office - it's the name of a bar in town.

It was my post, and I didn't even go , maybe I'll make the twight thing at FF.

ditto: http://www.ramutasresoles.com/

Redmond rei parking lot. I've done it a 1/2 dozen times this year with no issue, my partners been doing it for a couple of years with out a problem. ... hope I didn't just jinx it.

I learned 3 Lessons this weekend 1) I am a suckass climber 2) I am a suck ass drunk 3) Stout gives me the shizzitz, but man was it worth it ... actually I already knew 1 and 2.

... sneaking out of work at 3, hope the traffic's not too bad

Last winter on night-n-gale, when pulling the screw out of the first v thread hole, had to wait almost a minute for the water to stop flowing. I'm the fat boy with the pack, but for some reason I rapped last after pulling the back up screw. When I pulled the backup screw it got me all wet when water started gushing out of that hole too. Last week on Chianti, the rap at the top of the first pitch is a little chockstone behind a block, that wiggles around, and is slung with really old and tattered webbing. I'm still fat so I rapped first with a backup gear anchor.

that's just too funny bad rock ??? were they on the right mountain

fyi, got this email today ...

yeah the cam's on the second pitch of the east face of chianti - not clean break. the climbing was fun up till then. ... lifetime scorecard of lost gear is two ice screws, one cam, and one cut rope .. can't complain. -john

... not quite, we bailed. unless of course you mean vasiliki, in which case we forged a new class 4 variation of the standard class 3 route.

Vasiliki Tower on Saturday, note the neat figure 8 rock formation in the first pic. My stuck #4 on the second pitch of rebel yell on chianti. Much good karma and many for anyone smarter than us that can get it out and get it back to me. Otherwise just clip it and send !

7pm on Sunday 9/21. It's a right shoe, red, "triop", around size 38 or so. It was in the parking lot, looked like someone left it by their car when leaving. ... hope I did the right thing by taking it rather than leaving it there. anyway, pm or email me.

Hey !! I'm the yellow dot !!

Haven't seen the new issue yet, but I'm sure I'll pick it up anyway, I've got them all so far .. by the way, the "other dude" is Kevin Mahoney from New Hampshire, who has been quietly doing a lot of gnarly stuff in AK, like the first alpine style ascent of czech direct a month before twight and co.

At the risk of sounding like dr phil, we are all three different climbers ... 1. The climber we tell others that we are. 2. The climber that we think we are. 3. The climber that we really are. the trick is to get all three to match.

learn to lead .. that's harsh, true but harsh