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jja

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  1. jja

    Mt. Si - Saturday 2/28

    I can't believe you actually gave a serious response to that
  2. I've been up that trail three times since it "closed" to uphill traffic and that's exactly the vibe I got. Be discreet and it's all good.
  3. Hey I'm an "R" too We do do the right thing now and again
  4. Rodchester, I didn't consider the point you make. I hope you're right that there is a sunset provision in the original legislation that means: no bill = no fee demo. One other alternative though if this dies, might be a last minute extension, with the intention of revisiting this later. Other than the departments themselves (FS, BLM) who is pushing the reauthorization of the demo program? Is there a powerful committe chair out there that can wheel and deal favors to bring this back?
  5. Not to rain on anyone's parade, but remember the stupid psa with the cartoon "bill" on the steps of the capital trying to become a law? S1107 has been voted out of comittee. It still needs a full floor vote. the house has their version that has to go through the same process. then it probably gets attached to some giant piece of legislation that then has to go to conference. then that has to pass both houses. At any one of these steps this can get derailed. good news for sure , but a long way to go yet.
  6. most likely that big room betwix the shitters and world wraps. you goin' greg?
  7. Tim, The northern New Hampshire climbs should be way quicker to get to than the Adirondacks. Go to North Conway, NH and go to the IME (International Mountain Equipment) climbing shop in the center of town. The owner there (Rick Wilcox) is the guide book author for the area "An Ice Climber's Guide To Northern New England". (Wild Things is also in town) If the weather cooperates, and you don't mind a two hour approach, do the climbs on huntignton ravine on Mt. Washington. Great big alpine feel on a small kick ass mountain. The classic is Pinnacle gulley, but there are others like Odell's gulley. There is also a log cabin in the ravine called the harvard cabin that costs like $5 and has a wood burning stove. The gf might think it's romantic. It's super rustic though. Also right outside of town are the frankenstein cliffs, an area accessed by an old rail grade. Super easy access and good climbs, everything from Standard at like WI3 to harder stuff at 5. The person to respond to this is Ice Ice Baby, he knows all the NY stuff as well. Have fun, -john
  8. Cool. What's the deal with "class six" ?
  9. Steve, we did the standard descent down the gully that ends up in front of the east face. The second rap anchor (the one on the giant pin) is a bit of a reach, but ok.
  10. NO !! he smoked me on the approach, he said it was some new energy drink he was on.
  11. Climb: Midnight Run on Chair Peak-North Face Date of Climb: 2/12/2004 Trip Report: Being the cube person that I am, it sucks having to work through week long high pressure systems that end on friday. A headlamp climb seemed in order. Luckily the gun-totin gaper was thinking the same thing. We met at the alpental parking lot at 5pm. There were two guys coming down from the neb route that we talked to a bit, then we started hiking at about 5:20. Did the approach w/o snowshoes with only the occasional post hole. It was a clear, cloudless night. The wind picked up considerably as soon as we crested the hill into the basin below chair. Geared up and headed over to the nf. Made a worthless belay at a spot that will soon become a moat, as the man of many avatars headed for the open book, I promised to jump into the moat if he fell. After about 50m greg set up a good rock belay about half way up the dihedral/open book thing. When I got there I used my halogen head lamp to try and scope out the route. The different snow cover (little to no ice) from last year and headlamp shadows had us scratching our head for a minute as to which way would be best. I traversed a little bit left then headed up on some runnels. Most of the face is alternating bands of old wet slide paths, and wind swept powder features. Some of the snow was really funky, but most of it was secure. It seems that whenever it got steep good neve or ice would show up. Ended up simulclimbing the rest of the face. Headlamp battery died and used my last sling about 50ft from the top. Up top at 10:30 Coolest moment: Just before topping out coming over the crest between the nf and neb and seeing the ice fog spilling over the snow lake divide, the star filled sky, and the glow of the lights from alpental. Since it was blowing like crazy we decided to forego the walk over to the true summit Mark Twight style and just begin the descent. Back at the car at 12:40. Shit eatin grin on my face all day at work today !! Gear Notes: Placed one picket horizontally, probably useless. Placed one screw in actual ice. Clipped a fixed pin, used nuts for first belay. Slung trees for everything else. Approach Notes: Good trail, a little bit of post holing here and there, but no biggie.
  12. The rumor's are that this story is being shopped around by Chris Lehane - democratic muck raker extrodinaire, and past consultant to the Kerry campaign, before he got fired by Kerry and hired by Clark.
  13. XXXXX DRUDGE REPORT XXXXX THU FEB 12, 2004 11:45:28 ET XXXXX CAMPAIGN DRAMA ROCKS DEMOCRATS: KERRY FIGHTS OFF MEDIA PROBE OF RECENT ALLEGED INFIDELITY, RIVALS PREDICT RUIN **World Exclusive** **Must Credit the DRUDGE REPORT** A frantic behind-the-scenes drama is unfolding around Sen. John Kerry and his quest to lockup the Democratic nomination for president, the DRUDGE REPORT can reveal. Intrigue surrounds a woman who recently fled the country, reportedly at the prodding of Kerry, the DRUDGE REPORT has learned. A serious investigation of the woman and the nature of her relationship with Sen. John Kerry has been underway at TIME magazine, ABC NEWS, the WASHINGTON POST, THE HILL and the ASSOCIATED PRESS, where the woman in question once worked. MORE A close friend of the woman first approached a reporter late last year claiming fantastic stories -- stories that now threaten to turn the race for the presidency on its head! In an off-the-record conversation with a dozen reporters earlier this week, General Wesley Clark plainly stated: "Kerry will implode over an intern issue." [Three reporters in attendance confirm Clark made the startling comments.] The Kerry commotion is why Howard Dean has turned increasingly aggressive against Kerry in recent days, and is the key reason why Dean reversed his decision to drop out of the race after Wisconsin, top campaign sources tell the DRUDGE REPORT. Developing... ----------------------------------------------------------- Filed By Matt Drudge Reports are moved when circumstances warrant http://www.drudgereport.com for updates ©DRUDGE REPORT 2004 Not for reproduction without permission of the author
  14. juan, did you need shoes or skis for the approach? thanks.
  15. This saturday (1/31) I lost a bd express ice screw at honeyman falls. It's a 19cm screw with red and yellow tape on the hanger. Don't think we left it on the climb, so it probably fell into the deep snow at the belay. Did anyone up there on Sunday find it? thanks, -john
  16. What a cool weekend, just got back now. After a neurotic fit on friday afternoon worrying whether the roads would be open or not, me and timL got a 5am start on Saturday. Pulled into town a little before noon, and went and did honeyman falls. Being a lightweight I bailed early on the debauchery at the reynolds on Saturday night. Sunday was one of those days. Starts with: what do you want to do?, I dunno what do you want to do?, I could do whatever, want to go into the bridge? ... this kind of day inevitably leads to MC. Left MC early and went and scoped stuff out in bridge river and the approach to synchro. We decided we'd do the drop down to the road approach and cross the river. Left the car Monday at 6:45 and followed a boot track down to the river, crossing on a log. (possible to jump ice islands too, did this on the return) Got to the first bit of ice at 8:20. What a great climb this is!! We had really good conditions. The climb was wet only in easily avoidable spots. The ice was mostly refrozen sun baked stuff. Not bad really, had to dig for pro in spots. I haven't done a lot in lillooet, but so far this is for sure the best. Seems like the phantom sheep pornographer struck the unsuspecting again: The "ramp" pitch of synchro: Near the top of the upper tier of synchro:
  17. ken / fern / anybody else, if you're staying at the mile-0 drop in and say hi. I've got a white taurus, I'll write the room number on the trunk. we'll be there sat and sun night. (playing hooky on monday, yee-haw!) -john
  18. my guess is because only like 15 people showed up last year. I don't know what the finances were like, but I can't imagine that they didn't lose money.
  19. Roads are open !! LAST UPDATED: Fri Jan 30 AT 18:57 PM HWY 1: TRANS CANADA HWY: HOPE, BOSTON BAR, LYTTON, SPENCES BRIDGE TO CACHE CREEK: Bare with compact snow and slippery sections north of Lytton. HWY 99: SEA TO SKY HWY: HORSESHOE BAY TO SQUAMISH: Bare. SQUAMISH TO WHISTLER: Compact snow, slushy and slippery sections. WHISTLER TO PEMBERTON: Compact snow, slushy and slippery sections. Single lane alternating traffic at Rutherford Creek Bridge 24 km north of Whistler 24 hrs a day until further notice. Traffic light controlled. PEMBERTON (DUFFEY LAKE ROAD) LILLOOET TO THE JCT OF HWY 97N: Compact snow and slippery sections. *ROAD 40: LILLOOET TO GOLDBRIDGE: Compact snow and slippery sections.
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