jja

The only thing I'd add is that the approach to Red Wall Wanderer was lots of fun with much post holing into tree wells and through hidden snow covered branches. .. and that Gilles is a climbing machine who gladly waited forever while I hacked my way up (in quite poor style) my first WI5. -john

I'll second the vote for Northern Mountain. I've gotten more than a few things from them and have always had a good experience.

quote: Originally posted by Mer: You guys think the ice will last for another couple of weeks in Lilooet? I don't know, but the forecast from environment canada isn't so great: Fraser Canyon: Issued 4:00 PM pst Monday 11 March 2002Tonight.. Mainly cloudy with showers changing to flurries overnight. Wind south 25 km/h. Low plus one. Tuesday.. Mainly cloudy with few morning flurries changing to a few showers in the afternoon. Wind south 30 km/h. High 7. Wednesday.. Mainly cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers. Low minus one. High 7. Thursday.. Mainly cloudy. 40 percent chance of showers. Low minus 2. High 6. Friday.. Mainly cloudy. 60 percent chance of flurries or showers. Low minus 3. High 4. Normals for the period.. Low minus 2. High 9.

Anybody interested in going up there this weekend? It looks like it's been below 0c all week. I've got wheels and a rack, but am a lame ass so only lead 3+/4. email or pm me. -john

quote: Originally posted by Beck: ..whatever, rat, I didn't go. The guide service pitch lasted about 1 min. with half of that time spent apologizing for it. [ 02-22-2002: Message edited by: jja ]

Your welcome! We were there just after christmas and tr'd it. I'm sort of new to ice, so what would you say that is, WI3? jja

Ya that's still there at the gym. Nothing much changes there I guess. I put some hangers up for leading last year and that's probably the only change since you were there. You know Judson a couple of years ago had the money (from sf) and the contract all lined up to put a huge wall in one of the basketball courts for the special forces (and everyone else) to use but it fell through when a new sf co wanted exclusive use of it. So instead the sf built a freestanding outdoor wall in their compound that no one else can use and they hardly use because of all the rain. that's the army for you, john.

And they even have snow on some of the volcanos. Btw, the ice I mentioned was really really wet. As in should of brought the soap and shampoo wet.

On tuesday I snowshoed up to the tooth to check it out. I aproached from the side and ended up directly across the bowl at 5000. I had binos and there looked to be no ice at all on the ne slab. The finger of snow that reaches up to the slab wasn't reaching very high. Or at least it looked that way to me. (first time I've been up there in the winter) Yesterday I went back to tr some ice on the left side of the valley about 30 or so minutes up from the parking lot. While we were there some climbers were coming down. They said there was absolutely nothing on the ne slab and did the south face instead. Don't no anything about chair peak, but an assumption would be similar conditions. Hope this helps, jja.