Rodchester

Are you looking for something like this? Hammer Or something really old school...like this? Nazi Hammer The second one would make a cool collectable to go with an old wooden handled ice axe.

I seem to recall that SMC still made a "Himlayan hammer" that was a classic alpine hammer. It was heavy, if I recall correctly. Any of you shop guys have an SMC catalogue handy?

I have an older Moonstoone windshirt that is a Gore Activent product (on a thin nylon ripstop material). It weighs about 5 ozs. and is is very wind proof, very water resistent, and very lightweight. Granted, it would shred if you used the material on pants, but for a windshirt is is somewhere between a hard shell and a softshell, it rocks and I love it. I also have a Patagucci Krushell and I have used it about 10 times now, from mountaineerring on Rainier to alpine rock in the Tetons. It is very wind resistent, but not very water resistent. I think it is a great piece with somewhat limited applications. When alpine rock climbing I usually wear (or take along) a pair of nylon pants (non-coated) for wind resistence. I have never really used any of the schoeller (or similar materials) because I find them to be on the heavy side (and not cheap either ). I can seewhere they (Schoeller pants) would be good at the crag, and even alright in the mountains. But if it is just another piece to carry, and my present system works, is cheaper, resists wind better, and is lighter....what is the benefit? Not saying it is junk, just that I don't see a clear benefit.

But it doesn't say that they are going to actually ski everest. No chopper is going to get to the summit. In fact, none will get near the summit, maybe to the basecamp area or a little above. That means they have to ski in winter, which is actually the wet or monsoon season....which means few good flying days and lots of avalanches. Hmmm...crunch a few clients and see how long this lasts.

I have become a fan of the BD Lockdown. They are simple and effective. At first I had a hard time with them, and I had one of the detachable leashes. I do still like the detachable leashes, but after I got used to the BD Lockdown, it wins hands down. It is very simple and once you get it down, it is easy to work with, you can get it off and on very easily. It is very secure feeling too, and cheap. I can't imagine how these would be anymore useless than anyo other model when iced over. I have used the slider model and found it WAY more difficult to get on and of than the Lockdown. 2 cents BD Lockdown

Got this from Carlos. Sounds like they tagged a new route in a remote area of the Blanca. ______________________________ To: Friends From: Carlos Buhler, Lima, Peru, August 05, 2003: Thaddeus Josephson (22 years old, of Bozeman, MT) and I, Carlos Buhler (48 years old, also of Bozeman, MT), have just come out of the Cordillera Blanca mountains Peru on 8-02-03. We completed a twenty four year old dream of mine; a route on the beautiful peak here called Nevada Pucahirca Norte (6046 meters), by its Northwest (Safuna Lake) Face. This has been a serious effort for Thaddeus and I. We spent 6 grueling days on the climb, from July 22 to 28, beginning from our advanced camp at 4880 meters above Lake Safuna. Our base camp was located in the northeast corner of this Peruvian mountain range, 40 kms. from the village of Pomabamba. We reached the summit at 8:25 A.M. on the morning of July 27, after spending 18 hours of storm digging, and finding protection in, a snow cave just one pitch beneath the top. We immediately began the long descent by rappeling the same route of ascent. Thaddeus and I are both in good health, but tired, and extremely gratified to have succeeded on this very involved project. We studied the face for 8 days from Lake Safuna and the surrounding smaller peaks after a 4 day hike into the area in mid June, but my health was so poor during the entire month of June here in Peru that we could not attempt any climbing. With a long rest and recuperation in other areas of the range, and after careful and prolonged consideration, we returned to the Pucahirca group again on July 18th for our attempt to approach, and ascend, this dangerous and difficult route. We believe it is the first time that any of the four Pucahirca Peaks has been successfully climbed from these Northwestern faces above Lake Safuna. Other people, more knowledgeable about these areas, will let us know in the next few weeks if this is, indeed, the case. I had first seen these very remote and seldom visited flanks of the Pucahirca mountains in July, 1979 while with a trekking group I was helping to guide for Jack Miller, of Telluride, Colorado. I owe it to Jack for introducing this spectacular area to me back in my mid twenties. All the best to you, Carlos Buhler ________________________

Will there be a welcome home party for Chad?

Traverse all three Ingals peaks.....three peaks with scranbling and some climbing upt o 5.7 with a good bit of 5.0 to 5.6.

Ryland: My recollection is that storms tends to come in from the West in the Tetons and the Winds? There are two ways to bail on the Upper Exum. Right on top of the golden staircase (go left) you can rap back down to Wall street and then at the same level as the Owens rap, you can just walk around/scramble at worst to the rap stations. In between there aren't any good escapes.

Come on ... eveybody sing along: "all we are saying, is give Beck a chance ..." I may even show my fat ass up at this one. It sounds fun, and although I like it being kept non-commercial...the best is free . I won't buy anything as a result of thier marketing!!! Fight the power!!! But drink its !!!

If you are a small, light, and fast party starting a little late can be a good tactic. The route is not that long, and if you move fast starting late you won't run into the hordes because they're higher on the route.

Cruising over to the Tetons for a week. East Ridge of the grand, then North ridge of the Middle, and then scramble up the South Teton. Day or two off, then CMC on Moran. I think they should change the name of Mt. Owen to Spaulding or Bonney.

and

Another example of the man keeping us down...

What are the dates again? October...right?

I like my 5.10 mountain masters, but kind of depends what type of approaches you are doing. They suck on snow but are great on rock. They climb very well. Will wear out fast if you wear them around town, they are made with sticky rubber.

Bronco: You got the right municipality. They're going to build the wall, and other things, and then close it down. Got to spend the money that's been ear-marked. Then they'll raise taxes after the fact.

Where did you get those lightweight hiking books? I bet they weren't by Fred Beckey. Just kidding

Posted on Tue, Jul. 22, 2003 8 Climbers Missing After Peru Avalanche Associated Press LIMA, Peru - Eight mountain climbers were missing after an avalanche on Peru's Alpamayo mountain, police said Tuesday. Four Germans, two Israelis, one Venezuelan and one Peruvian were believed to have been buried, said police Lt. Henry Paz, director of the high mountain rescue unit in nearby Huaraz, 180 miles (285 kilometers) north of Lima. He did not identify the victims. The climbers, from one or more expeditions, were about 490 feet (150 meters) below Alpamayo's 19,510-foot (5,947-meter) summit when they were swept away by a wall of broken ice at around 9 a.m. Monday, Paz said. A rescue team went out on foot at 9 p.m. Monday and police were waiting early Tuesday for the arrival of a rescue helicopter to begin an aerial search, he said. Alpamayo is one of several glacier-covered peaks in Peru's Cordillera Blanca that attract climbers from around the world. ___________________ I suppose one of the flutings could have broken off? If the glacier itself had broken off at that altitude, there would be one hell of a crash and the mountain would be an entirely different peak.

The peaks of the Cordillera Blanca can get really slammed with snow in a short period and set up bad avy conditions, even in the dry season. This could be a regular avalanche, and not a piece of the glacier breaking off. Maybe, maybe not. I would think that if it was a large piece breaking off, it would be hard to find any bodies, as the ice would crush any thing in its path. But hell, I’m just some idiot on CC.com. Either way it still sucks.

Wolfie: I rapped the main rap station multiple times with a 60 meter rope with no problem, and about one foot to spare. Last time I did it was in 2001. There is another set of raps that you can do with a 50 meter rope (book says two 70 foot raps) and when I did the main rap in 2001 and in 2000, I could see two other rap stations. It would also be fairly easy to go down the Owens route. I've spoken with more than a couple of people that have down climbed it and saying it was no problem. (Assuming dry conditions). But the one spot on the Owens where the original climbers stood on each other's shoulders would be an interesting scramble down. Have a good climb!!!

As long as you plan on using it in good weather, more as a back-up in case you do hit bad weather, I would go light and simple. Why carry a three pound bivy sack with fancy poles and bells and whistles? My Bibler weighs a hair less than four pounds and sleeps two (One-door I-Tent). So unless its less than two pounds, it ain't worth taking a bivy. (For me anyway).

Thanks for the beta wall....much appreciated. When are you heading back that way?

Mike: AKA Wolfie: We are leaving Seattle on Aug 1, 2003 (after work) and will drive straight through. So we'll get there some time on Saturday. We will likely crash at the AAC Climber's Ranch or the forest camp site eveyone uses out off of Antelope Flats. (If there is no room at the Ranch). We figure that we'll start up the peak on Monday. My partner is somewhat new to Alpine rock, so we're not planning on blasting the thing. Also, I want to do all three Tetons. Given the team and goals, we'll bivy two nights. One on the East Ridge and one at the Lower Saddle. We'll be taveling mid to light weight. Bivy sacks, 30-degree down bags, canister stove, aluminum crampons, light axes, alpine rack with an extra piece or two, and a 9.8 x 60m rope. So not ultra-light by any means, but not heavy either. maybe we can hook up to swap beta and some brews.... When are you there?