Rodchester

Makes REI sound like it is staffed with highly trained professionals......

What kind of boots? For mountaineering, hiking, backpacking, boots and approach shoes I'd check out Second Ascent in beautiful downtown Ballard.

MattP: I agree...but you can also place it as a huge anchor, or umm. Hmmm, hard to describe here. I have on more than a few occasions placed it from behind two or more large boulders where the sides of the large Hex don't even touch, but the load is on the face of the Hex with the drilled holes with the wire or cord. This is not camming in any way. I've used it this way in belay anchors, not on lead. Not sure if I've communicated that very effectively. So I count this as number four method. noncamming each side long and short, are two and three. And number one is camming mode. Right?

four. That's why I used the word "basically." There are two sides thus two sizes. However, it is correct to say that they can be placed four ways (that I can recall right now), but the size stays the same. Semantics, I know.

Are Hexes lighter than Camalots? #11 Hex - range 2.56/3.91 - weight 206 gms/7.27 ozs #4 Camalot - range 2.9-4.9 - weight 349 gms/12.3 ozs #3.5 Camlot - range 2.4-4.1 - weight 302 gms/10.8 ozs Of course the "range" of a Hex is static, basically two sizes. So it seems that the larger BD Hexes made now-a-days are lighter than the modern Camlots. I think the weight difference increases as the sizes get smaller. I do like to carry along a large Hex or two (#10 & #11) when there is some need for a larger piece at one or two points on a alpine route. I don't own the small and medium hexes.

The tension can be adjusted very easily. Simply open the flicklock, and adjust the tension by turning the nut. Or you can ignore steps 1-4 by buying flicklock poles for rougly the same price.

I saw a guy on Rainier in late July once years ago. It was about 10:00 a.m. and we were on our way down from the summit (DC Route) on Ingraham Flats. The sun was high, bright, and hot without a cloud in the sky. We had on lightweight baselayer with shorts (No, I swear I'm not in the Mountaineers) and no shells...man it was HOT!!! And this guy was still on his way up just baking in this TNF one piece suit. I was so stunned, I just stared as he slowly slogged by me. Also SOME people use them ice climbing in New England and sometimes in the Rockies.

I have used four different brands/models of adjustable poles (besides a few non-adjustable ski poles). About five years ago, maybe six, I purchased REI best poles. I purchased them figuring I'd just reurn them whenever they broke. They did, and I did. So often it started driving me crazy. Finally I asked for store credit and purchased a pair of BD adjustable flicklock poles. The BD poles were the avalanche probe poles, two section with flicklock. I figured since I skied AT too, they'd be great for most anything. I was right. One thing though, because they are a two section, they don't collapse as small as I would like. So I purchased a pair of BD Expedition three section flicklock poles, the ultilmate poles for trekking, backpacking, mountaineering, climbing approaches, etc. The flicklock system is FAR AND AWAY the superior system. The twists suck. They break. Plain and simple, they break. In winter snow melts, gets inside, refreezes and frost heaves, destroying/damaging the mechanism. This is true of ANY company's twist system. I have never seen a flicklock system break. I have rarely seen a twist system that didn't break (At least under hard use and winter conditions). REI, Leki, whatever, if its a twist, I'll break it. The tension on the BD flicklock can also be adjusted and slippage is non-existant. Once in a while you find something so simple it amazes you that anyone would use anything different. The BD poles with flicklock system is one of those things. BD Poles BD Trekking Poles Good Luck

If I had to buy now and pay retail I'd buyt he REI one in second. Best buy FOR THE MONEY.

BD Lockdown, hands down.

I was there in 1998 and only paid $450.00. I have friends that go there somewhat often and I tried to go back this past summer and found that the rates have really gone up: 9/11, cost of fuel, economy in general? I don't know, but they are more expensive and that sucks. Peru is such a great country and the Blanca rocks!!! Sorry I couldn't be a help to you. I just wanted to let you know that others have had similar problems in the recent past. You may want to wait until January to check. The airlines usually don't schedule out more than 6 months and if the travel volume is low, maybe then they'll lower prices to induce travel. Let us know, because I really want to go back with the wife. Good Luck!!!

A buddy of mine did it and I was surprised how easy it was. Now he is a carpenter, and very used to these kind of projects, but it still didn't seem that tough. (I actually watched him do the whole thing from A-Z). He has been fairly happy with the outcome, though I know he has said he would do things a little different next time. He is in the Valley right now and will be there for a couple of more weeks. I'll have him check in with you when he gets back (He trolls here and occasionally posts under the name "Kris").

Few places on earth offer the conditions of Mt. Washington NH in winter. I've been there three times in late January and found it to be surreal each time. Winds so fast and loud that you cannot hear those standing right next to you as the SCREAM in your ear. Winds so strong you often are forced to crawl. Cold...holy shit cold. It is defintely not a place to play around. Beautiful environment, but very deadly. If you want to mother nature, check it out.

Click on, and scroll down for specials on Grivels

If you need to make moves that require you to twist your ankles (i.e. stepping high, or certain traverse moves requiring yoru ankle to twist) AT boots can be diffcult to climb in. (But not imposssible or any thing). They are usually fine for straight on water ice or alpine ice such as a steep coulior. But get on any mixed ground, or transition from snow onto steeper rock, ouch. Sure it can be done, but it isn't optimal. Good luck....

Contact Mountain Madness 1-800-328-5925. Gary Brill is a guide for Mountain Madness, and his class is great, but they also offer other courses. I understand that they will soon be offering a more field intensive course, putting you in the backcountry on multiple days. I think it is going to be a four or five day course (not just classes at night with a day in the field).

Now I'm even more pleased with the fact that you don't consider me a climber. And WTF on this "dirtbag" thing? A lot of the people here lead pretty respectable, fairly normal lives, and are not ashamed of it. The expression is not meant to be, nor is it, degrading. It is an expression that has been used by many for many years. It is often used in an affectionate manner. Get over the whole respectable thing.

Oh yeah, I saw/spoke with speed demon extrodinaire Chad Kellog at the NPS meeting. I guess he is doing some office work in downtown Seattle for the time being anyway.

Me. Kudos to the Park Service so far. We'll see if they get it right in the long term. I have some relationship to the guiding community, however, I do agree with having some commercial free areas. Or at least enforcing a mandaotory guide to client ratio and a lower group size in certain areas.

Good point hasbeen. I think you are correct.

Dustin: That is what I adressed above: It would appear that they have redesigned/tweaked the newer models to accept mountaineering boots. At least that is the way I read it......

Regular (street) running shoes would wear out that fast too. Most serious runners go through three to four pair of shoes in a regular year. The lightweight materials and construction simply cannot withstand the pounding. Put them on a trail and they'll wear out just as fast. Nikes are no, better. I have found that Nike's are worse.

I think there is a clear difference in that suppoort in a Marathon is standard. He raced, comepted, and won within the standard. I am only asking opinions. There clearly is no standard in this realm, or is there? Is it an alpine pursuit? Or a road race? Maybe neither?

An interesting article/opinion on "Mixed" climbing... Interesting view....

I tend to agree...