Rodchester

If you need to make moves that require you to twist your ankles (i.e. stepping high, or certain traverse moves requiring yoru ankle to twist) AT boots can be diffcult to climb in. (But not imposssible or any thing). They are usually fine for straight on water ice or alpine ice such as a steep coulior. But get on any mixed ground, or transition from snow onto steeper rock, ouch. Sure it can be done, but it isn't optimal. Good luck....

Contact Mountain Madness 1-800-328-5925. Gary Brill is a guide for Mountain Madness, and his class is great, but they also offer other courses. I understand that they will soon be offering a more field intensive course, putting you in the backcountry on multiple days. I think it is going to be a four or five day course (not just classes at night with a day in the field).

Now I'm even more pleased with the fact that you don't consider me a climber. And WTF on this "dirtbag" thing? A lot of the people here lead pretty respectable, fairly normal lives, and are not ashamed of it. The expression is not meant to be, nor is it, degrading. It is an expression that has been used by many for many years. It is often used in an affectionate manner. Get over the whole respectable thing.

Oh yeah, I saw/spoke with speed demon extrodinaire Chad Kellog at the NPS meeting. I guess he is doing some office work in downtown Seattle for the time being anyway.

Me. Kudos to the Park Service so far. We'll see if they get it right in the long term. I have some relationship to the guiding community, however, I do agree with having some commercial free areas. Or at least enforcing a mandaotory guide to client ratio and a lower group size in certain areas.

Good point hasbeen. I think you are correct.

Dustin: That is what I adressed above: It would appear that they have redesigned/tweaked the newer models to accept mountaineering boots. At least that is the way I read it......

Regular (street) running shoes would wear out that fast too. Most serious runners go through three to four pair of shoes in a regular year. The lightweight materials and construction simply cannot withstand the pounding. Put them on a trail and they'll wear out just as fast. Nikes are no, better. I have found that Nike's are worse.

I think there is a clear difference in that suppoort in a Marathon is standard. He raced, comepted, and won within the standard. I am only asking opinions. There clearly is no standard in this realm, or is there? Is it an alpine pursuit? Or a road race? Maybe neither?

An interesting article/opinion on "Mixed" climbing... Interesting view....

I tend to agree...

Ivan...you're missing the point. The question is less about this guy and more about what is supported versus unsupported in general. If this was a climb of a peak and there were propositioned supplies in place that were actually used on the ascent, is it supported? Just soliciting opinions, not slamming anyone or their style. Read my post above and you'll see that is clear.

And erik is correct....cheaper for sure!!!!

I'd say when he asked: That he was looking for user opinions on using mountaineering boots with AT bindings. But, I'll rephrase my statement. I think that asking what others have tried is a valid way to solicit information in addition to any statements made by manufacturers.

Says $25.93 each...that would be two titanium screws. One short BD or two titanium screws...which would you rap off of?

The Diamar's used to say that they did not recommend using mountaineering boots with them. However, the most recent BD catalogue says that you can now use mountaineering boots with them. I always find that user's opinions are a great supplement to manufacturer's info.

So I have a question for all of you out there...This guy's feat was undoubtedly very cool, and difficult achievement. My question is, because he propositioned supplies in the form of food, and maybe some other things, is that a supported effort? Does it make a difference that he preplaced the supplies instead of someone else? Opinions / input appreciated ...

I agree on the Silvrettas, but I thought that the easy-gos were not rated for mountaineerring boots. Also, I'd go with 170ish skis. No need for radical sidecuts or super fat boards since you want it as a true mountaineering ski. The straighter boards tour better.

Just a note...the Scarpa Magic is a chick boot....the Lazer is a guy's boot. My understanding is that they are pretty much the same caliber of boot, but the Magic is built on a chick last. So I have a question for you experienced AT guys and gals on the proper ski length. The wife is 5ft. 6 in. and weighs 120lbs. As I stated above I am looking at going with the BD Mira (but maybe another ski if the price and weight is right), Dimar 3 bindings, and the Scarpa Magic boot. The question is what length for a fairly novice skier? I think with her weight, or lack thereof, she'll have plenty of surface area to keep her floating on the surface. So for turning, I'm leaning toward going shorter. But if I go too short, will she dig the tips in? She won't be skiing real aggressively, so I was looking at 160ish length (Mira's shortest is 162), but someone stated that she should consider going with 150ish skis (another brand). Any input on length of skis with her height, weight, and abilities would be appreciated.

Apline K and B-rock: How do you like the Dynafit boots? I been told that they tour the best and are light, but that they don't provide as much support for skiing ... any thoughts or opinions? The wife is only recently getting back into skiing after many years off...and never skied that hard in the first place. While I want her to be confortable touring, I am concerned that she'll need solid support while skiiing. No matter how good the touring in/up, if she can't ski it out/down, she'll hate it. Thanks for any input....

For what its worth, I've been looking at the same set up for my wife...who is skinny (120lbs.), and as such I want her to have a lightweight set up that still skis well. We are also looking at the Scarpa "Magic" boots. This set up seems to me, on papaer at least, to be a good lightweaight set up that will still ski well in most conditions. Though I guess time will tell. I understand that the Dynafit binding system is more or less the lightest, but that it can be more finicky , which concerns me with my wife using it. She is not mechanically inclined. One thing about the Fritschi Diamir 3 bindings, it is my understanding that they do not do well with mountaineering boots, i.e. plastics double boots. For that the Silvrettas are generally considered the best bindings.

I agree with dru that they are not that much harder, if at all, than a standard BD screw. I also believe that they pull more easily due to the smaller size of the threads.

Sphinx...you're right!! I just had a brain cramp!!!

These screws have been around forever. They have actually gone up in price. They used to be $10.00 per screw. I have a hanful of them as do most guys I climb with. I agree that they are not the best leader screw, but I regulalry use them at belays, and will protect a lead on easier ice. With a Screamer, I feel comfortable with them. This should be done with all screws. I have seen tests with these screws and they actually rate fairly good, not great, but not bad. Light and cheap, but I wouldn't use them as the primary screw on a lead rack for steep WI.