Rodchester

me too... because it

Bottled, canned, keg..whatever!!!

Seems to me that Toast did when he asked the question:

But "roped soloing" is also solo Aid.....I guess you could say "unprotected free solo." The terms can shift meaning with usage and those using the terms. I agree that they are not rigid. Only that one's use may not be the same as another's, in all cases.

Class 4 climbing is when one is climbing on class 4 rock. It refers to the overall diffculty of the rock. As some here have defined it, some would want a rope/some form of protection on the climbing. It speaks to the difficulty of the climbing. Free soloing has nothing to do with the class of the climb. "Free" means that you do not rely on anything artifical to aid your ascent. So, you do not pull on gear, stand on gear (aiders), or ARGUABLY pull up on trees and roots etc. Free can be done on any level of climb....IF you're good enough. A long time ago they used to have a class 6. This is now refered to as Aid climbing. Or the point at whcih you can no longer free it. Now that can vary and is considerably lower for my fat old ass than for many ropeguns here on this board and out there climbing. That is why in guide book you'll see things like: It is 5.11a or A2+. Or you'll see things like: A3, but it can go free . Solo can mean different things to different poeple. Some view it and use it as climbing unprotected, but you could still have others with you, just not protected or using the same protection system. Say you and a buddy go out and blast the a route in running shoes with no gear or ropes. You're climbing togther in the sense that you are near each other, but there is no way to protect each other from falling or to aid the other's ascent. Some would still call this solo. Others would say (MOST WOULD) that you are climbing alone, with no one else around, or at least that no one is with you. Many would say that it doesn't mean that you are unproteceted. For instance solo aid is obviously protected. "Free solo" is often used to mean that you are climbing with out any aritical aid and that you are alone. However, if you want to get technical, you could be solo and freeing a pitch and still have a protection system. So it does not, by its text, mean that you are unprotected. By that is USUALLY the implication that I get when I hear people use the term. Yes Anyway...just my view and understanding.

Because God knows that will solve everything. This is your golden opportunity, retail employees: ARM YOURSELVES AND TAKE THE BASTILLE!!!

Now that is totally true. And many here would sya that they don't carry a bag becuase they are too fast, or too smart, or that they only go when they know the weather is perfect. As I have said above repeatedly, I'll give em some leeway untill I hear the whole story...but I am skeptical.

I've used an array and keep coming back to the BD. Simple and inexpensive. I have some Russian titanium nuts, some HB and others.

Well actually there are rather strict rules set forth by the IRS ( ) that do not allow what most others "S" corps see as profit. The money has to be spent on the bsuiness, the members, or on other projects (Such as supporting enviro projects). Not saying that I like what is going on, but they are not a high-profit retail organization.

There are sooo many versions of what I would call mid-weight/duty boots out there that are really comfortable and are still crampon compatable. These are fine for basic glacier climbs on smaller mountains like Olympus. My wife and I each have a pair of the leather and synthetic Tecnicas that we got from PMS (Jim Nelson) that are lightweight, really comfortable, and take new-matic style crampons. No need for old fashioned waffle-stomper style mountaineering boots anymore, at least on the lower peaks. PMS - Boots Look at the Ascend and the Dunagiri. The Pioner and the Odyssey are also good ones, but are a bit light and only take strapon crampons. The Ascends as I can attest to. I have used them on long ass approaches. I wore them right out of the box while trekking the Shira plateau and to the summit of Kilimanjaro with no blisters and in comfort. It was an 9 day trip. I like shoes for sinlge day approaches to alpine rock climbs. But I like the support of a boot for longer approaches with a heavy pack and would rather go with comphie mid-duty boots that wear shoes and carry a pair of heavy ass wafflestompers. 2 cents

Hmmmm....I had mine stolen the one time out 300 that I left it on... So Mattp is correct......if you keep it off thy won't ripe you off.

Man that would be a first. Usually its sounds more like....Oh its a death route, 70 degree water ice, wicked hard, bad conditions, be prepared for Everest and denali all in one peak. You'll need 87 ice screws, Do you have oxygen? Not saying I don't believe your statement, but it is a first in my experience. I also adjusted my plans based on weather, but we each have to make our own decisions...

Yeah...I wouldn't be surprised if one came out saying that it weakens the rope...so you should buy this extra special DWR for ropes....and it only costs three times as much and is actually the same thing anyway.

I have "treated" a couple of nine mm ropes in the past and found that it made a noticable difference. However, like most DWR treatements is wears off over time. Remeber what DWR standands for: Durable Water Repellant. Key word is dudable, not permanent. Good luck with it and let us kno how it goes and how long they hold up, or stay dry....

And that is why I'll listen to what they have to say. If they felt that they were in a bad situation and felt that hunkering down and digging in was prudent, and were calling to say: Hey Mike G. we're OK, just digging in high on the peak because of white out conditions. We'll stay in touch and let you know if we actually need help. Any idea on when this is supposed to clear up? And then the media or the Rangers blew it out of proportion, then I'll be more forgiving. But I don't think that is what happened here. And if they actually didn't call back to say they were no longer stuck and were moving, that is BAD. A total dick move that could have cost lives of SaR people, assuming they were actually trying to move up to provide aid. So I'll wait till I get the full story, but so far I think they screwed up.

That's pretty much what I said (cell phone changed the equation)....but I'm willing to listen to all of the facts as they develop. But somehow I doubt they'll convince me otherwise.

I wouldn't have made an attempt either. But I'll give them some leeway untill I hear the whole story. My point about the chopper was more of an observation, and I'm not so sure that the climbers even asked for a chopper. My point was only that someone, most likely the media asking a ranger about choppers pulling them off the mountain when the weather was supposedly so bad they couldn't walk off. How can one expect a chopper to fly in that? From what I've heard so far it sound like they used bad judgment. (We'll see). If they didn't have the cell phone, and didn't make a call, the same outcome would have likely occurred, but we wouldn't be discussing it because we never would have heard about it. They would have hunkered down and then just walked down when the felt it was time. Because they had a cell phone, we have a news story.

So I read this article and saw it on the news. What I wondered was: how does anyone think a helicopter is going to pull people off the mountain when they can't walk off due to weather. Do you think a chopper can fly in weather that prevents healthy people from walking?

Well...its been along time, but my recollection is thast they charge a fee ($15?) to cross/use thier land. That was some 4 or 5 years ago when I last looked into it. Can you call the tribe? Good luck and post what ever info you gather.

I agree with the others that said call BD directly. I have had nothing but good luck with thier service...

While I agree that AMGA certification lets one know that the guide is knowledgable, I would not limit myself to what is still only an up and coming certification. I+No doubt it is the way of the future, but it doesn't gaurantee you anything, except that it will greatly limit you pool to choose from. There are many great guides that are not certified, and will never go that route. 2 cents

When my wife and I did the Exum we waited a good bit later than normal to leave the upper saddle. We only saw one other group of two. As long as you can move quickly, leaving later can keep you away from the crowds...of course it may expose you to those early afternoon thunderstorms too.

My recollection of his Rainier record was that he spent something like 4 nights on the summit, sleeping in the crater before he went for the record. Obviously, this would have left him well acclimatized. At the time he was a climbing ranger for MRNP. At least this is what I recall....don't quote me and correct me if I'm wrong.