Rodchester

Ivan...you're missing the point. The question is less about this guy and more about what is supported versus unsupported in general. If this was a climb of a peak and there were propositioned supplies in place that were actually used on the ascent, is it supported? Just soliciting opinions, not slamming anyone or their style. Read my post above and you'll see that is clear.

And erik is correct....cheaper for sure!!!!

I'd say when he asked: That he was looking for user opinions on using mountaineering boots with AT bindings. But, I'll rephrase my statement. I think that asking what others have tried is a valid way to solicit information in addition to any statements made by manufacturers.

Says $25.93 each...that would be two titanium screws. One short BD or two titanium screws...which would you rap off of?

The Diamar's used to say that they did not recommend using mountaineering boots with them. However, the most recent BD catalogue says that you can now use mountaineering boots with them. I always find that user's opinions are a great supplement to manufacturer's info.

So I have a question for all of you out there...This guy's feat was undoubtedly very cool, and difficult achievement. My question is, because he propositioned supplies in the form of food, and maybe some other things, is that a supported effort? Does it make a difference that he preplaced the supplies instead of someone else? Opinions / input appreciated ...

I was at Second Ascent last week and saw a 55 or 60 cm X-15 that was in great shape, but it was a BRS. The shaft was in great shape though. Another thing you could do is pick up a 60 cm Shrike staright shaft. They are on-sale on the BD-website right now for $99.95. It is actually lighter that the X-15s and has a stronger shaft. Shrike Sale Just an idea......

I agree on the Silvrettas, but I thought that the easy-gos were not rated for mountaineerring boots. Also, I'd go with 170ish skis. No need for radical sidecuts or super fat boards since you want it as a true mountaineering ski. The straighter boards tour better.

Just a note...the Scarpa Magic is a chick boot....the Lazer is a guy's boot. My understanding is that they are pretty much the same caliber of boot, but the Magic is built on a chick last. So I have a question for you experienced AT guys and gals on the proper ski length. The wife is 5ft. 6 in. and weighs 120lbs. As I stated above I am looking at going with the BD Mira (but maybe another ski if the price and weight is right), Dimar 3 bindings, and the Scarpa Magic boot. The question is what length for a fairly novice skier? I think with her weight, or lack thereof, she'll have plenty of surface area to keep her floating on the surface. So for turning, I'm leaning toward going shorter. But if I go too short, will she dig the tips in? She won't be skiing real aggressively, so I was looking at 160ish length (Mira's shortest is 162), but someone stated that she should consider going with 150ish skis (another brand). Any input on length of skis with her height, weight, and abilities would be appreciated.

Apline K and B-rock: How do you like the Dynafit boots? I been told that they tour the best and are light, but that they don't provide as much support for skiing ... any thoughts or opinions? The wife is only recently getting back into skiing after many years off...and never skied that hard in the first place. While I want her to be confortable touring, I am concerned that she'll need solid support while skiiing. No matter how good the touring in/up, if she can't ski it out/down, she'll hate it. Thanks for any input....

For what its worth, I've been looking at the same set up for my wife...who is skinny (120lbs.), and as such I want her to have a lightweight set up that still skis well. We are also looking at the Scarpa "Magic" boots. This set up seems to me, on papaer at least, to be a good lightweaight set up that will still ski well in most conditions. Though I guess time will tell. I understand that the Dynafit binding system is more or less the lightest, but that it can be more finicky , which concerns me with my wife using it. She is not mechanically inclined. One thing about the Fritschi Diamir 3 bindings, it is my understanding that they do not do well with mountaineering boots, i.e. plastics double boots. For that the Silvrettas are generally considered the best bindings.

I agree with dru that they are not that much harder, if at all, than a standard BD screw. I also believe that they pull more easily due to the smaller size of the threads.

Sphinx...you're right!! I just had a brain cramp!!!

These screws have been around forever. They have actually gone up in price. They used to be $10.00 per screw. I have a hanful of them as do most guys I climb with. I agree that they are not the best leader screw, but I regulalry use them at belays, and will protect a lead on easier ice. With a Screamer, I feel comfortable with them. This should be done with all screws. I have seen tests with these screws and they actually rate fairly good, not great, but not bad. Light and cheap, but I wouldn't use them as the primary screw on a lead rack for steep WI.

Actually the original Chiounard X-Tool took a different pick than what is used today. However, the X-15 models took, and still take, the same pick(s) made by BD today. They have the same mounting system as the Shrike, the Prophet, the Rage, the Cobra, etc. I sold some brand new X-tool picks to Second Ascent a couple of years ago. Give em a ring...

Sorry, I called it Second Bounce, its now named Second Ascent. Second Ascent

Try Second Bounce in beautiful downtown Ballard. I've seen them in there occasionally. Though usually they are 50 cm., some are longer. Good Luck....

I pretty much agree with ERIC. Especially at crags.

Many trad/alpine climbers do. In fact most all that I climb with and/or know, also clip bolts (myself included) from time to time. That doesn't mean that they agree that people should just start bolting everything in sight.

I don't think the bindings are a problems at all ... the problem is that the boots must be able to tour/skate and go down hill. The Denali is the best (or certainly one of the best) at the steep downhill stuff. But it doesn't tour as well. It is a classic case of robbing Peter to pay Paul. Touring and sking are two very different things, almost opposite. It is impossible to have a boot that Tours perfrectly and skis pefectly. If it skis beter it will worse at touring.

Everyone be cool, this is just my opinion. There is a difference between supported and unsupported. I am not saying one is better than the other, but they are different. Is there a difference between a expedition style fully supported summit of Everest with gas and one unsupported without gas? Of course. Did they both summit? Yes. Both worked hard and accomplished something major. In two different styles, but they both did it. God I know my old fat ass couldn't do it with or without support. So good gaod damn job!!!

I was there last week = snow above 9000 and climbers ranch should be closed. I think it closed Monday. Exum runs clients via the lower saddle until the 20th. I'd bet they haven't gotten anyone up lately due to weather. Wet and cold. Winter appears to be coming early there. 2 cents...good luck.

I agree. It is the same in many ways the same, but you always rob Peter to pay Paul. I ski lifts with mine from time to time and have no problems, though I can tell when the gear is at its limits, and its limits are less than that of good downhill gear. I recently upgraded the skis and think that with a pair of the Scarpa Denalis I can step up the performance.

I say this because is is a very stiff boot with TOO MUCH control. A beginner will not do well in a boot that is too sensitive to every slight move, twist, turn, shift of weight, etc. Don't make the assumption that a stiffer boot is better for everyone, otherwise all boots would be stiff. Also the Lazer will tour better. The Denali does not tour as well (too stiff).