Rodchester

oooops

I'm with Snoboy...rope on ascent (clove hitch and locking biner) and use a draw and a locker on descent. Thus no extra gear. I have used daisy chains at times, but don't do so much anymore.

Marriage predates Christianity. I'm not Christian and I'm married. Marriage is little more than a social contract that is ALSO recognized by MOST religions. Promoting marriage in and of itself is not a bad thing, even for the government. But I do concur that it should be low on the list and that spending shitloads on it isn't likely going to do much As far as running a deficit goes, most of our lives, and back another 50 years, deficits have been run by our government, by Dems and Reps. Sure, we should balance the budget, but a deficit in and of itself is not always evil.

Actually the Touching the Void incident did not happen in the same mountain range. The incident occured on Suila Grande in the Cordillera Huayhash. However, the range is close to the Blanca, well fairly close. But still I agree that the Blanca is an incredible place with astounding scenery.

My recollection is that Negroid refers to what is called a "kline" or "cline." This is a anthopological term that casts a very wide net over all that are genticaly related to what we in the US refer to as "blacks." Howevr I belive that it also covers many ohters, such as the Aborginals in Austruialia, and some in Southern India. There is also another cline called caucasoid, meaning causasians (but more than just "whites" this includes Indians (India), Pakistanis, Persians, Ararbs, and most Europeans, and many others not considered "white." There is another cline that in;cudes most of the folks that we refer to as "Asains." But don't quote me...I'm just here for the beer.

Peru isn't set up for rescues now, let alone in the 1980s.

I find it interesting that MOST here seem to agree that Simon did the right thing in saving himself. However, MANY here (CC.com) criticize those in the 1996 Everest debacle (and other events) for leaving some behind to die. Differences? Just thinking out loud....

Metolious makes very good harnesses that can adjust the rise. My wife is fairly small all around with a medium to longer rise and found the Metolious fit her best. I never would have thought that until we tried them on and as ehmmic says, hung in it at the shop. You want to get the fit right, because she may hate climbing if it isn't. and that would suck, spending money and pissing her off, not good.

Cracked is correct. I am a 10 1/2 and they fit fine, but I do think they'd be tight on a large foot/boot like say a 12.

Should Simon Have Abseiled Into the Crevasse? I think he should have rappelled.

Well considering that MOST shops will not alow ANY returns on climbing gear, I'd get her a card or something that says you're getting her a harness and then go wioth her to try it on. that way you got it right. Fiting a harness on the web is crazy.

BD Termitgaitors are fine. Been using them for four seasons now. No problems.

One could use Charles Mudede's view to take the position that we shouldn't watch pro-sports because others are starving, and the time and money wasted on the athletes and games could be used to help the starving. I think he is full of shit and though he says he isn't taking the moral high ground, he totally is trying to do just that.

I previously had the type with tail clips and having only used them, thought they were fine. I now have ones that have only a front clip and stay affixed by the glue...and I think they work fine. I now prefer the ones without the tailclip. 2 cents

What kind of BS is this? Tax benefits for married folks? hahahahaha Ever heard of the marriage penalty? Tax benefits my ass. It would be substantially cheaper for my wife and I to have NOT gotten married, as far as our tax burden goes. I can't even comment on the rest, if the lead off is oo completely incorrect. Man the NYT has really slipped in the past five or so years.

Was that while you were at bandcamp?

Always remember is is your intentions that count... Sounds like Dan....

I have found them to make a difference in retreating an older dry rope. Now that means some sucess, enough to make it worth it, but I have never tried to make a non-dry rope dry. Some dry ropes are treated non only on the sheath, but in the mantle as well. I doubt the after market DWR will do much. Just my opinion.

Anyone skied down to the Nisqually Bridge this year/season? I am interested in the snow pack between the snout of the glacier and the bridge itself. Is it in good shape (sufficient depth to cover obstacles, rocks, the stream, etc.)? Any beta on present conditions (or recent) is appreciated.

well...lets just say that when the gear goes back intot he packs its USUALY a longer approach to the beer.

I like my Silveretta 500s just fine. They seem to me to be burley enough for most Alpine/downhill and they tour fine. But, I can't say that I ski that hard on the lifts, blues and single blacks. No jumps and only few moguls for me. I previously had Silveretta 400s and found them to be sturdy and a good buddy previously had the 404s with no durability problems. It seems to me, with my limited gumby knowledge, that no AT binding is totally bomb proof. You rob from Peter to pay Paul with At bindings, asking them to do everything (touring and skiing) decent, but nothing great.

Another note, understand that not all guide services operate above board, in other words with the proper permits to operate in a given area or on a given peak. Now it may not matter to you that a particular guide service doesn't operate above board, that's up to you. But you could actually be fined, so just be careful. That said there are many very good guides that renegade guide from time to time. But they are hard to find from back east. If you are concerned, and want to be above board, ask them what areas they are permited to operate in, and then call the land manager for that area, either Forest Service, National Park Service, possibly BLM, or maybe even a state entity, and confirm thier ability to operate in the area. Good luck.

According to my old copy of Freedon of the Hills, 3rd edition, threaded screws were introduced by the Russians in the 1960s. I don't claim to have ever placed any conduit, but my understanding is in line with crazyjz's post that conduit was most always used at belay and rappel points. I couldn't imagine pounding in a piece of conduit on lead. I'm not an ambulance chaser.

Back in the day electrical conduit was made (and much of it still is) from a thick aluminum. It was fairly cheap and was about 3/4 inch in diameter, though different sizes were/are avaialable. You could easily cut it into different lengths and rig different ways to clip into it. i.e. cut a small hole and sling it with cord or metal wire, though be damn sure if you're using cord that you clean off any burrs left by drilling the holes. It was basically a cheap version of the Camp/Lowe Snarg. Or maybe comparable to on old fashioned ice piton...you pound it in. These were nearly impossible to pull out so they were often left in place and at the end of season, or the begining of spring, a pile would form at the base of popular climbs. Needles to say these are not used by anyone (that I know of) today. They lacked any ribs or threads which we now understand to give an ice placement a major part of its holding power.

looked at the packs at marmot in Bellvue and was very impressed. Granted, this was just checking them out in the store, trying htem on, and playing with them.