Rodchester

Daisy Chain

I was at Second Ascent the other day and saw a good diagram and visual explanation of why you shouldn't tie in to a biner that has been routed through the waist belt and the leg belt as suggested by some here. It creates a three way load on the biner (as stated by some here). Biners are tested and designed for a two way load. The weakest part of the biner is the gate. When you use the biner in the way suggested by some here, and a leader falls (or any weight is placed on the rope) it could create a three way load (waist belt, leg webbing, and the rope). Should anyone of these three loads land on the gate, failure is POSSIBLE. I tried to find the Petzel link with the diagram, but I couldn't find it. Given the POSSIBILITY of a three way load on the biner and the second possibility of the load on the gate, I don't see why one would do it this way. But hey, I'm just here for the beer.......

What size?

Red Mt. Really more of a snowshoe up than an actual climb...but we got a good view from its summit.

Got ya

I meant that somewhat tongue and cheek. many here on CC.com se things in black-n-white when many of us are grey. I'm not anti R at all. Not anti D either. The Rs did the right thing here, that's for sure.

Just getting up Rainier once is cool...Granted, not a technical challenge via the DC, but pretty cool none the less. It is unlike anything else in the States (except maybe the other PNW volcanoes). With two weeks you should have time to do the DC and then have plenty of time to do other peaks. There is soo much around here. Assuming you can lead alpine rock there are many cool and fun routes on cool and fun peaks with all levels of diffculty. If you just want to focus on the volcanoes, then why not doa PNW volcano tour? Start at Baker and work your way south.

A few friends and I snowshoed in and up to the summit just after you did highclimb. I left my sticks in tha car because my friends heard it was icy (which made sense given the weather in the days before). I actually thought that the conditions looked fairly good and was wishing that I had my sticks with me. In good conditions it would be a sweet run.

Are saying that you tie into a locking biner which is then clipped to the harness? Do you do this when rock climbing, whether alpine trad, crag, or sport? Or is this just what you do when mountaineering?

Recall it was a DEMONSTRATION Program that automatically expires at the end of a set term. The present term expires or lapses in October of 2004. It dies unless it is extended (or turned into permanent law). I guess yuou could cal it a sunset provision. Though I'd say it was supposed to just be a test piece. A last minute extension is unlikely. It would have to come out of committee as a whole new bill. This year they are too busy to screw around with it. Many have elections to worry about. As far as a powerful committee chair goes, I doubt it. I don't know who the chair is on the Senate Energy & Natural Resources Committee (but admittedly I'm not up on who's-who like I used to be). This was being pushed by Senator Thomas, R-WY and Senator Craig R-ID. Yes, that's right Rs. (Many western Rs tend to have deep Libertarian streaks). “Senator Thomas and Senator Craig (R-ID), Chair of the public lands subcommittee, as well as all Senators on Committee, did an excellent job protecting their constituents ownership of these public lands.” Said Robert Funkhouser President of Western Slope NoFee Coalition. Senator Craig is a sub-committee chair, not the committee chair. But it sounds like he’s got the support of many. I seriously doubt that any non-government lobby groups like Access Fund, Rails to Trails, AHS, or others were for it. I think the only ones for it were BLM and FS, maybe a few other government agencies were pitching in to support their brothers. But concern is correct, its the government, fucking it up is always possible, if not likely.

jja: I'm not sure that you are correct. In fact, I'm fairly sure you are incorrect on this one. There is no extension in the Bill for the Fee Demo on Forest Service or BLM land, only in National Parks. (not totally precise but you get the point). The present system on FS and BLM lands expires in October of 2004. There is no bill to renew or extend it. (Remember, it has always been a Fee Demonstration plan, not a permanent plan which must be voted out. It has kept itself in existence by affirmative votes prior to each expiration.) So the two outcomes are that the bill could die, in which case there is no Fee Demo on FS and BLM lands after October 2004, or the bill is made into law, in which case the Fee Demo on FS and BLM lands after October 2004. The bill (more or less) cannot be altered, unless it goes back to committee. (Which is possible, but unlikely. The votes are usually secured prior to putting the bill on the floor). So in a round about way, Fee Demo on FS and BLM lands after October 2004 is dead by not being renewed. There is no need for this bill to pass or fail. Anyone know anything different? Anyone familiar with procedure in altering a bill out of committee? I think it needs a super majority to do so. . ..right? Am I missing something here?

Chick Boot Good boot for all around, stiff enough to ski most anything yet still soft enough to tour without tearing up your feet. Fairly light, combined with the Dynafit bindings on light skis, about as light as you'll get while still maintaining ski-ability of the boot. 2 cents...don't trust me though, I'm not a chick.

2 lb 9 oz. Now dats lite. BD Firstlight tent

I-Tent with one door...

There are certain insurance companies (and not many of them) that are approved for insurance when guiding on Federal lands. You need to obtain this information from the local land managers. Without insurance from one of the approved companies you canot even apply to guide on thier land. One of them that had been approved locally (you'd have to ensure that they still are) is Lexington Insurance Company located in Boston Mass. I am willing to bet that they are a subsidiary of a larger insurance company. Usually they are. If you are opening a guide service send me a PM. I have been advising guide companies and independent guides for years on legal issues and compliance issues.

I think the problem is actually the fuel, as opposed to the stove itself. My understanding is that the fuel, a mixture of butane and propane, separates and therefor is less efficient. But don't quote me on that. Anyway, do you best to keep the fuel canister warm. Put it inside your puffy when you're setting up camp. That should help for a bit. I've never used the coil around the canister idea, so I can't comment on it. I usually use liquid fuel for winter / cold trips.

ReDoubt: You could be correct...and also we MAY see the Forest Service Personnel stop trying to enforce it. Based on a cost benefit analysis i could see local mangers begin to decide not to enforce it given the costs associated with an ending program. It'll be interesting. I'm sure some individual Forest Service Law Enforcement types are glad to see it go. I bet it was a real pain for them.

My understanding is that it doesn't have to pass...because if it doesn't the existing law lapses in October of 2004. I could be incorrect on this, but the bill that left committee is a take it or lapse it. Meaning, that at the very least BLM and Forest service will lose the Fee Demo in October 2004. The only question is whether or not the Park Service will get to keep theirs. So the Senators will only be able to vote yes or no on keeping it in the Parks. Because they cannot vote for it in the Forests, it must lapse. Odds are good that they will pass it to keep it in the Parks. Anyone know better? Maybe I'm wrong..I hope not.

AHS This info was prior to the passage of S.1007. It appears that the Fee Demo for BLM and Forest Service land will expire in October 2004. Interior controls the National Park system.

That YES!!! Do we know any details, such as when it it will "lapse?"

For the prce you can't beat these!

Its pretty straight forward climb, assuming you'll be doing the main route. Almost no crevasses. I wouldn't even take a rope. I enjoyed the trip. You going to do Ixta also?

Besdies the $20.00 reservation fee and the $30.00 climb fee, you also have to pay to getinto the park..i guess you'd call it an entrance fee. Its per vehicle.

BD will repair (sew slings and trigger kit) for their cams only. I think that most manufacturers will only fix their own cams. I sent some back to BD about 6 months ago and they did them fast, did a great job with new slings, new triggers, and cleaned them up, and did it for free even though I enclosed a credit card number. They are damn near like new.

Hmmm....I think they've been alright so far on this board the few times they've been on. I seem to recall that they have asked info other times to be sure they uderstood what they were reporting. That is a good thing in my mind. Too often the media doesn't get things and when they report it it simply comes out wrong.