crazyjizzy

I just recieved the latest AAJ, and there was a lengthy article about a new route on Baffin Island by Jim Beyer. Is this guy totally nuts or what? He has a three year old, and I can't think that she could have a more messed up dad. Why did he reproduce? He appartently has multiple close calls with death, and doesn't care about dying. He is more Twight than Twight.

Even though I have been climbing almost thirty years, I am not sure what a Petzl Reverso is. Can this device cause a static stop? If so, then in my opinion, the role of belay device needs to examined. I refered to the increase of fall load in the thread "load multiplication..." in regard to Gri-gri's, and carabiner breakage in "why things break". I believe that the recently published work of the UIAA (AAC Alpine News most recent issue) has some bearing on this accident.

Popester, You are the math/physics guy here, but it is pretty easy for a 150lber to generate 300 lbs by jumping up and down. Make that a 20' jump, and then... Equal and oposite... You rule!!!

The new Couloir is out, and they are looking for articles. Maybe a couple of CC. could write an in depth disscussion of their first descent last winter of Alpentals Upper International! How about a series on womens conditioning by a well known chain smoker. And of course, Captain Caveman with an expose' "The Birthday Traverse - What really happened at Washington Pass.

The latest AAC Alpine News has a reply by Helut Microys regarding load multiplications and belay devices. These results may have a bearing on the cause of a recent accident. Static devices (the Gri-gri in this test) resulted in loads on the un-anchored belayer of greater than 4kN, resulting in protection loads of greater than 7kN. Belays using either a Munter hitch, or a Tuber resulted in belay forces of 1.7 to 2.8kN, and pro loads of 4-5kN. It was also thought that the greater forces caused by the Gri-gri can cause carabiner flutter (the rapid opening and closing of the gate). This is similar to the situation caused by rip runners before we knew enough to use lockers on them. Carabiners have gate open strengths typically only slightly above 7kN. These results may not be directly transferable to an actual climbing situation due to the very low friction of the protection pulley, but they are worrisome. It is thought that static devices should not be used for belaying the leader at all. [ 10-17-2002, 04:35 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

Look! It's not locked! Jump in and slander and malign the North Face!

You are a living carictature of your self. Ability is no substitute! Good thing you have a shop steward so you keep your job, and a bunch of Stewart Smilley tapes so you can believe that you are equal to the guys up high. Lets see, you have to use a tape measure and divide a number by either two, three, or even four! Then you take the chokers and shackle them into the prefabricated pad eyes. WOW! You do all this while the high guys are risking life and limb attaching the chainfalls, blocks, and tackles to the structure. It sure does sound like a even division of labor to me. How is your hand truck? [ 10-05-2002, 05:29 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

I'm sure that it was put up by a stage hand, but not one who is afraid of heights, and barely capable of standing on the second step of a six foot ladder. I am sure your task of running the hand truck is important, but don't try to fool us.

Ted I think your probably right.

Carabiners break when they suffer a blow, casting defects, or undergo loading in a gate open position. Years ago, Yates Screamers were resposible for many carabiner failures because as the stitches blew, the gates would rattle open, and the biner could eventually break. This happened to us on a early ascent of the ZM when a fixed RURP with a rip runner held, and the bean broke. To aleviate this people started using lockers, or the newer wire gates. Wire gates are much less likely to come open in the above scenerio due to their lesser inertial mass. I don't think any climbing rope would act as a static rope during a zipper fall. The rope would rebound quickly, and more importantly, the rope would stretch a fucking mile. I have tied ropes to Cat D4's and the other end to a tree, and they will stretch and stretch, and stretch. Aid climbers have taken lots of rippers, and if ropes lost their dynamic ability part way thru a zipper, then the impact force would kill the poor fucker that fell. With the exception of highly fracured, rotten, or poorly indurrated sediments I think that cams fail when they are poorly placed. Period. I believe that the friction between the cam and the rock is always greater than the force on the cam. Even in Indian Creek, where you can see "skid" marks of cams resulting from a fall, it is the underlying sandstone that is failing, not the frictional interface(senso stricto). The rocks of the Columbia River Basalts are much stronger the the sediments of the Colorado Plateau.

I have heard that there were failures that were your fault.

This is beutiful! The sybiotic marraige of Cascadeclimbers.com with Finehomebuildings Breaktime. I think I'm going to buy either a DeWalt Cabinet saw or a Powermatic 64. You will definetly need to header off the truss ends where they formerly landed on your top plate. A 2x6 would do it ( rough rule of thumb - 1" headr height/foot horizontal header length), but with 9' ceilings, go with a 8" header. What is the detail for the floor? A new foundation? Piers? Or some cantilevered system?

On an other thread I was reading some discussions on rigging, and was much amused. 1) We used to use plate cams, which are used for picking steel, and which use the same logrithmic spiral as friends. Steel to steel has much less friction than aluminum to basaltic rocks, and we never had a failure. 2) I have done alot of rigging, as a scab boilermaker, scab ironworker, working for a scab crane company as an operator and a rigger, and erecting many P&H TC 90 lattice boom cable cranes. I have always worked with journeymen, and have never seen a failure of any sort. Makes you think that our expert union rigger is an incompetant boob, and surrounded by more of the same. Next time I go to the theatre I'll bring a hard hat, and a firstaid kit. 3) I know that AlpineK is a good tree and climbing rigger. He always brings the jaws of life to the theatre. [ 10-03-2002, 05:16 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

Hey Dru: Fuck you! I worked on SE1, why don't you go put your little Cannucky Okey Dokey on some strip mining you two faced piece of shit! Luv CJZ (AlpineK's buddy)

I found a #1 Clog cam after it bounced off my head at the base of GNS. I offered to give it back, but apparently the people were scared to ask for it. I next found a #6 Metoulis 4cu on the crux pitch of Heart of the Country. I'm going to keep them both.

Per unit of GDP, the USA is by FAR THE CLEANEST country in the history of the world.

I have flown with Getting a couple of times, and always been treated well. DG and TAT are the only outfits that will fly to the upper Tokositna. K2 used to fly to some wild places in his Super Cub, but I think they are more interested in Beaver flights to Kahiltna International. I agree that your note to Doug must have been a nasty one. Take a red and chill you little whiny b.... [ 06-28-2002, 01:00 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

Dennis isn't so bad! He is just stating his opinion as a climber. Allison sucks! And she is just a poseur anyway! She couldn't climb a 5.5 without a ladder anyway. [ 06-16-2002, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

Feed it rocks and rebar!

CFR 1926 requires construction dudes ( and dudettes ) to use full body harnesses, although these are typically clipped in the back. There is no prohibition against a front tie in if the harness is so designed. These laws were designed around extensive testing by the American National Standards Institute. All in all I don't know what to think about all this. [ 06-12-2002, 12:38 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

Next Sunday is Fathers Day, and Terrebone will be in a state of utter confussion. Expect to see Dick Pumpington wandering around hugging bums and delivery people, asking "are you my daddy".

I was wrong to say bad things about AlpineK. He is not a fat pussy. Caveman and AlpineK SHOULD NOT FIGHT in the Index Parking Lot. These two are the finest humans that I know, and evil Allison is trying to start some trouble between them.

Cavey and AlpineK in a Index Parking Lot Battle! When it is all over AK will be 0 for 2 in Parking Lot Battles! Cavey rules, and AK is a fat tax dodging pussy!

Dru, I disagree. And WTF is the Harting Slot, and how does it affect the fact that Dean didn't climb the big roof.

Dru, No one can claim to free the Dyke untill they free the first BIG roof. Deano didn't do it, so he hasn't freed it. And I hope no one adds bolts to it. I was as scared following it as Rat was leading it.