crazyjizzy

I would do a seacrch for Zion N.P., and then contact them. I have found that they are actually helpfull, and do not yet have too bad of an opinion of climbers.

My Alpine Buddies are AlpineK and Dan Larson. I love those guys! AK has told me multiple times that I am a "crass piece of shit", and DL thinks that I am tasteless. I am. AK: I will almost miss you when I am away, take care of rat. Danny: I have a red face, and am sorry. You are a worthy adversary for thousands of cc.ers.

Painfull spelling. Graduated from what?

Pumpington and BelaySlave. I guess if the name fits. Maybe Dan Larson doesn't suck the most, have you checked out these two?

Nice job fawning Wayne. Have some self respect you little sycophant.

Nice job fawning Wayne. Have some self respect you little sycophant.

ALPINEK MADE A LITTLE JOKE ABOUT YOUR CAPITALIZATION, AND YOU WENT AGGRO. YOU ARE A PRICK, AND HE WAS GOING TO TEACH YOU SOMETHING ABOUT AN ICE AXE AND HOW IT FEELS SHOVED UP YOUR ASS.

While not strictly a winter ascent, in late November, 1976, Steve Doty and Van Brinkerhoff climbed one of the gullies. hey thought that their route of ascent had never been climbed, but latter learned that Calder Bressler had climbed the route.

You can get bomber pro in the middle of the traverse, and in the top of the chimney to protect the second. In about 1980, John Stoddard, myself, and Craig and Kent Venesch were hanging around the base, smoking a bowl. A leader did the route, and put no pro from the top of the crack to the belay. We told him to watch out for his buddy, and he told us to mind our own buisness. Half way across the traverst, when we all had our backs turned for a second, the follower fell off and took a horrendous fall. I don't really know how they didn't end up hitting anything. We all turned around, and one of us said "shit, we missed it". Done properly, the second should have no problems.

[i know that the article in question was written long before the [b]new[/b] Volken guide came out (12/1/2001i] The mere fact that it is already written up in a book should give some readers a clue...[/QB] Are you talking out of both sides of your mouth here or what dbb? I think it was clearly a disingenous article, when the fact that the gully had previous descents was probable. Your very own arguments negate themselves. As a spin control master, you suck. [ 01-27-2002: Message edited by: crazyjz ] [ 01-27-2002: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

Big article in Couloir Mag today about the Enigma Couloir, whats all the hype about. When is AlpineK going to write up the Cannon Mountain Couloir for Arbor Age or something?

And in 1975, two famalies snow camping at Source Lake were hammered by an avalanche, and at least two of the kids died.

AlpineK is the most wonderful person in the world whom I have never had sex with. He is an excellent skiier, and has done some good beer spiting with me! I nominate AlpineK for CCer of the year!

I am a disgrace! I got home, checked the computer and figured out that things were chaos and Monroe wasn't going to happen, and went to bed. I had to be at work at 4:00am so we could rotohammer some fucking holes when there were no fucking tennants around. I'll go wherever the next place is as long as my buddy Special K is there.

While I agree that wire rope would not normally be a good idea for cams, I disagree with most of the reasons. 1) I don't think that they would chew up biners. Do wired nuts, ice screws, bolts, and pitons destroy biners? 2) I would not be concerned with strength. I have done tons of swagging of climbing gear at marine shops, and once decided to test the strenght of my work. I clipped a bunch of biners between swages that I had done, and older Chouinard wires, tied one end to a stout tree, and the other to a old D-4 my dad owned. a couple new biners failed before my homemade swages did. Nicopress swages are heavier than the swages on wired nuts because manufacturers are able to use nice equipment, which is able to crush a steel sleeve instead of the heavier maleable copper.

Rat, Don't you know a little about dry tooling?

Max,There still are a bunch of frigging socialist assholes out there! Most of them live either 40 minutes west of Denver, or 30 minutes east of San Francisco. None of then live out here in gods country of Snohomish County WA. Long live me and Bronco!!! [ 01-21-2002: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

If you want, you can thread them with your own webbing or perlon. Friends were origanally sold bare until about 1985 or so, and Metolius TCU's came bare until probably 1988. I don't think that there was ever an issue with people using their own webbing, only that people like the pre-sewn slings. Sewn slings are less bulky, and shorter. I continue to use tied webbing and perlon on my older friends, and have never had a second thought about safety.

Icegirl, Sorry to hurt your left leaning feelings, but it was the Russkies who thought the geese were bombers. In 1983, the year Soviet-American tensions became particulary strained (this was the year of the downing of KAL 007, Grenada, and on the heels of the "Evil Empire speech"), NATO had an Exercise. This buildup of troops had the Warsaw Pact convinced we (NATO) were about to launch a pre-emptive strike against them. About this time, their shitty Soviet radars didn't work, and people freaked out. We knew about this occurance, and calmer heads on both sides ratcheted down the retoric and tensions.

I have a number 4 Friend that I bought at REI in 1979 that came over on the "first boatload". I have mass Friends that I boought before 1985.

Bronco Whats the word? AlpineK is awfully thristy, and I want to party my pants off!

How about something up north? There is a Buzz Inn in Monroe, so we could eat too! Monroe would be really convient for me, Bronco, Buzz, Rat, Fred Grafton, and several others!!!! I bet Caveman would LOVE out BUZZ INN!

Lets have a Battle Cage! AlpineK: Lots of routes in the Canadain Rockies, Alaska, the Canadain Arctic, and the Himalaya, incuding ascents of the Cassin and the Emporer Ridge, as well as an attempt on a new route on Everest. Dick: Sport climber and ski resort patron. AlpineK: In shape Dick: Fat from all the free food he gets from the Mexican Restaurant he works at in Terrebone. AlpineK: Thinks Dan Larson sucks Dick: Sucks Dan Larson (swallows to)

DPS Learn to spell NcNerthney.

My old dial Giscard recently went TU. To replace it I just bought a Casio Pathfinder watch/altimeter/etc. Anyone with any experience with these piece of shits. Am I too stupid to operate it, or are they so complicated as to be almost worthless?