max

yeah, what dberdinka said, for now. It seems his analysis fulfills the burden of proof to a suficient level. I'll go with what he said unitl someone make a refutation.

VFA = vector force analysis? = veterans of foreign aberations? = vertically formulated articulations? WTF? I'll bite. [ 04-15-2002, 11:02 AM: Message edited by: max ]

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Yep most of those cracks are face climbs in disguise. BUT they are gear climbs Gear protected face climbs are my favorite. Best of both worlds.

quote: Originally posted by erik: ahh i have bever had an issues with yo's down at smif......i just love to watch all the little guys driven by numbers reducing their level of fun and the level of fun around them with their desire to be the skiinest hard crankin mofo out there...... I like this. Just a few days ago I was lamenting with my pal that people would rather have their name printed in the guide book next to some stupid climb with big numbers than an athetic, funb climb with low numbers. And that's sad. I think this big number attitude is what's behind ugly bolting and poor style. Speaking of the weekend... After work friday headed up boulder canyon with the above mentioned pal and did a AWESOME 3 pitch .9... It was so good I came back the next morning and did it again with another frined (rare for me to want to repeat a climb...) Bitty buttress. Awesome. Did some other great climbs in Dream Canyon, then at twilight, went and scoped Cosmosis (ruined my chance at a on-sight flash free red attempt). I'll try and muster some photos of this route... another awesome looking climb! later

quote: Originally posted by allison: ...but whatever you do, make sure if you are using Spectra webbing that you do not attempt to make knotted runners out of them. This webbing is too slippery to hold a knot, and must be sewn. I've heard (and I do it) that it's ok to ty spectra w/ fisherman's knots.

quote: Originally posted by pope: ...I've noticed a large number of climbers who attach a quick-draw to almost every piece they place, regardless of whether the route is weaving around, left to right, or whether they've placed pro under an overlap. That's a great way to create rope drag, or worse, your pieces (especially cams) may become destabilized by rope movement. I think I'm misunderstanding you. You're saying draws clipped to pieces make them less stable and create rope drag? I doubt this is what your saying, but I'm still curious.

As to CO2 concentrations... http://amath.colorado.edu/courses/2350/2002Spr/HW/industrialCO2.jpg This is ruthlessly ripped from "Climate Change 2001: The Scientific Basis" published for the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change by Cambridge University Press. Yeah, it's not warming, but it sure looks like industrialization has influenced co2 levels. As to who to believe: I believe people with more research experience in the field. All the researchers I've talked to (I'm in a math/atmospheric science grad program) seem to say global warming is here and humans are playing a statistically signifigant role in it. Peer review. Data and interpretations don't get published in the big journals without some serious scrutiny. BS doesn't fly.

I had a shitty expereince w/ the Seattle REI. I forgot to take a bunch of tcu's out of my pocket when I left, and some meat-head dude got all upset! I's like, "dude, take a chill! I was planning on paying for 'um" He was such a stress ball!

Hey out of curiousity... Do you know why it was closed?

This is just barely related and doesn't warant it's own topic... A few days ago I made a new cordalette and was annoyed at not being able to effectively melt the frayed ends. My solution: P-Tex. The spectra/kevlar/what-ever the hell that stuff is wicked up a SMALL drop nicely and created a clean and compact "seal". For the non-sliders: P-Tex is available at any decsent (ha ha) ski shop.______________________________________________I know it's only Wednesday, but that almost twice as close as monday!

The Leavenworht guide can be a little fishy trying to figure out top ropes... Obviously not comprehensive and maybe not applicable to what you can/want to do, but here are some suggestions: Climb the well bolted 5.8 on the front of Grand central tower. three .10-.11 slab topropes from there. Climb Potholes (5.7, well bolted) and toprope potholes (direct) direct, washboards (.10c ?) with a directional. Make a slightly spooky traverse (5.0, no rope) to the top of Austrian slab and climb any number of slabs .9-.10c (?) Climb some (lame) route to the top of Orchard rock and tr the 5.0 slab or the .10b hand/fist crack. Don't bother with the climbs on the se face/chimney. Junk. It is possible (but really crumby and sketchy) to walk to the top of some of the climbs on Sunset, but it sucks. Peshastin might not be the best place for topropes. 1. Topropes piss people off and (at least a few years ago), Peshastin can be pretty crowded. 2. There just aren't many climbs that are both condusive to top roping and worth climbing at peshastin. In my opinion there's more and better tr'ing to be done in icicle canyon or vantage. Obviously expect to deal with some yahoo's in the icicle. Hit vantage early in the morning, drink and raid un-attended coolers in the afternoon, then hit sunshine again for a plesant sunset. I don't have a good idea of what you're looking for or what your abilities are, so sorry in advance for any insulting/useless/self-glorifying spray. Oh yeah, make sure to have a good time!

I like what matt said. I'd like to add a related comment. People in front have the ability to influence the safety of parties below via rockfall and "time-issues". If a lower party is unwilling to accept these risks, they (generally) have the option of bailing. When a party asks to pass another, they implicitly ask "are you willing to accept the risk of being below us?" I don't think it's generally right to force this risk upon others, even if the passing party thinks they're faster and safe enough to pass. All this is pretty theoretical. Pratically, I thikn it's just how agressive you want to be (both as a passer and a pass-ie) and trying to avoid the easy classics. Finally, I like the cc references. We followed a super slow party on that route. To make it even worse, the in front of us pissed on me! Serious. I don't know what the hell he was thinking. I got back at him though by sending him down a 85+ rap on a 160 rope! And I think he had to take a shit or throw up too, cause he was in a real hurry to get off. We rapped past him as he was trying to fix his mess.

Yeah! Now we're talkin'!

I appreciate the witty and well composed contributions of Dwayner. He's funny. [ 04-08-2002: Message edited by: max ]

www.bivouac.com is ok if you know what you want to climb and have some time and a computer, but it's hardly a good "guide".As far as SW BC being "crag" climbs: Maybe I'm referencing the wrong book. I'm thinking of a light blue book with big, blocky yellow title... Anyways, the book seems to detail some of the cragging areas around sw bc other than squamish. When I say cragging, I mean short climbs, climbs you would wear sneakers to, bring your dog, and maybe bring a beginner. I know the book had a section on yak and some large wall, maybe it said something about the coyote's penis? Yeah, I'm looking for climing near fort St. John? Feel free to make an assumption about where in BC I'd like to climb. If that's too much, I'll choose SW BC. The bottom line is this: I'd like to do some alpine rock climbs in SW BC. I'm looking for a guide book. Thanks. No smart-ass attitude intended.

I'm lookin' to do a little climbing in the BC mountains this season. Does anyone have suggestions on a good guide book for alpine rock routes? I've seen the SW BC Rock Climbs, but this seems to be focused on "crag" climbing. Any "alpine" alternatives? Also, I'd like to hear recommendations for 1-3 day trips in SW BC, again, focusing on rock routes. Note: Today is Friday and ya'll should have a big smile on your face. partial smile ear to ear grin

AlpineK pretty much said it all. I wouldn't move here w/o seriously considering the options. Lumpy and RMNP kick ass. Especially Lumpy. Bring lots of money 'cause shit ain't cheap. Also make sure to include a pair of sun glasses to google at girls in sun dresses through.

quote: Originally posted by Recriminator: That would be mitch the bitch better known as retro-ball-less KISS IT Uh, I think mitch has the biggest balls here. Have you ever seen his list of firsts? Know about the climb "Shrinking Balls Disease?"

If I were to choose a WA town to live in w/o considering climbing, I'd choose Republic or some other NE town. That part of the state seems to avoid ALL the crowds and it's very pretty.

As several have said above, the blue, yellow, orange, and red tcu are great in both application and operation. I'm not sure how small a .75 camalot is, but I know it's not as small as a yellow tcu. As far as doubling: in my expereince, the number of climbs out there that REQUIRE doubling on certain sizes isn't that great. Yeha, they're out there, but especially in the PNW it seems a well distributed rack does fine. But, I have doubles of the .5" to 1.5" and carry them along in my pack. If I get excited (to do a climb!) and need them, I can pull them out. Otherwise, they take a nap in the bottom of the sack. Sorta' like the #4 camalot. PS: I can't wait for spring!

I seem to remeber someone wanting the "This page comprised of..." touching the "UBB email this to a friend" thing and I just laughed at them. Oh, what visionary thinkers they were!

quote: All the mags are in Boulder and all the, "best," climbers live in Boulder. Why would we be interested in the opinion of people from some slug infested state like WA. Yeah, it's pretty bad how Clinging and R&I focus on CO stuff. Slugs. I love slugs. I think it most of the difference we've seen from these two companies reflect the age of the companies. OP is a much older (chronologically) and mature (strategy wise) company than spitter gear. So it shouldn't be much of a suprise that OP produces a much more eloquent and convincing reply than s.g. Also, I suspect most people are more motivated by performance than "silly ethical issues".

I'd agree with the two previous respondants. Intentionally missing that much sleep is not a good idea. I will say I value the experiences I've had of prolonged, intense physical work, but I also value having been snowbound with hypothermia victims on rainier. but that doesn't mean I'm going ot go back to rainier with the the idea of intentionally getting stuck and being in a seriously compromised position. Just because something is a valueable or memorable experience doesn't mean you should try to put yourself in that position. In my opinion, it's best just to wait and let these "situations" come about on their own. (Does this post show the signs of three nights of studying? It took about twice the usual time to compose!) I like the idea of first going w/o sleep in a "controled" environment, then deciding whether or not it's something you want to do intentionally.

I second the "neah" on Marley crags. They're just not worth the tromp. The only climb there I think deserves more than one star is the .9 finger crack in the upper left part of the crag. The rest...

I'm frickin' retardfed! This is a climb I suggested just a few days ago! My mermory is shot!All this talk of sweet cracks just hurts! It sounds like it's the same in WA as here: all snowy and shitty for climbing. Plus, being stuck behind a computer doesn't help the climbing itchies. Dang! I can't wait for some warm weather. It helps me to compile a mental tick list of climbs for when i get back in May. Yeah!!!!