
cj001f
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Everything posted by cj001f
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For periferal Baffin info, check out Andrew Maclean's site: http://www.pawprince.com/Baffin/baffin-home.htm He had a mess of slides up from the trip - but they've been taken down temporarily. Carl
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quote: Originally posted by fleblebleb: Why is the Bibler system better than the MSR? Does it enclose the entire stove? Isn't that a lot heavier? What's durability got to do with it, how much abuse is a stove hanging setup going to take? The Bibler is just 2 pots - one nesting inside the other. Attach the stove. Start Stove. Weighs 20oz w/pot. The MSR is an expanding X w/ cables, a cheesy windscreen and a reflector. Mucho more of a pain to set up. The MSR weighs less but doesn't pack any smaller - because you still have the big pot. As for durability - it matters to me because I can break anything. Anything. And when things are in HaulBags/Packs I beat them up. The Bibler has a pot/windscreen/cables combo that still works well dented, and isn't any more of a pain to set up. The more you beat up the Ascent, the more of a pain it is to set up. Carl
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I OFTEN FIND IT DIFFICULT TO MODULATE THE TONE OF MY VOICE.
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quote: Originally posted by gapertimmy: so what do you use for lightweights? [/QB] La Sportiva Hypers. Awesome. They've got the best shank of any of the Lightweights - you can even passably crampon with them. They are a bit hard to find (mtn tools carries them), adn they're not cheap ($130). I've had absolutely no luck with the Salomons. I went through 2 pairs of Raidwinds in 3 days. Both times the fancy lacing system broke - not cool. The other pairs of Salomon lighwights have fallen apart quickly on me to. As much as it's uncool .... the north face trail running shoes I've had are nice for hiking, and definitely durable(cheap too - from outlets) Carl
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topozone.com has USGS topo maps available online, free - and better printing versions for a small fee. They print fair to excellent depending on your printer & configuration. I've used them for 1 off trips to areas where I dont' want to spend the money on a "real" map. Carl
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Toss my vote for the Pocket Rocket. The Giga Power is about the same in terms of performance, packability, and stability - but much more expensive(I've seen the PR as low as $25) As others have said neither stove is good for cold, and they can be a bit more work to find a stable base than the Whisperlite. The Superfly Hanging System is crap - the Bibler system is 100 times better, in durability and performance. Carl [ 06-25-2002, 08:43 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]
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quote: Originally posted by climberted: Dru, Where can I find the CAJ, Desnivel, Mountain Info, stuff. I have the AAJ and want some more info on some projects I looking at. Thanx There are these places called libraries. Quite often they can answer your questions. From the comfort of your own home, a search engine works quite well. The American Alpine club has quite a good library that will do research for you(if you pay the fee) or send you books(if your a member) www.americanalpineclub.org - click on resources. For the Canadian Alpine Journal (commonly abreviated CAJ) http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/publications/caj.html Desnivel.com is a compendium of expedition briefings results/etc. [ 06-25-2002, 08:40 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]
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quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: I scramble eggs... WTF is a scrambler? A scrambler - i.e. a Class 3 or 4 climber. Historically, most climbers - read about the first ascent of Grand Teton (the Owen one, not the real first ascent). He described the difficulties as not much more than the normal scrambling faced when fishing, hunting, etc. - and Owens-Spalding is a 5.7. If your looking for fellow scramblers - there are a few that lurk here, but a better source for worthwhile dialogue would be summitpost.com (ugh!) Carl
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What size are the gloves?
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It may be interesting to note that this editorial was centerplace in the San Jose Mercury New Opinion section this weekend: Risk and rescue THERE ARE GOOD REASONS NOT TO CHARGE CLIMBERS IN DISTRESS By Miguel Helft TWELVE summers ago, I watched in horror as 43 people were swept to their deaths in an avalanche on the snowy flanks of a popular 23,000-foot mountain called Pik Lenin, in what is now Tajikistan. It turned out to be the worst accident in mountain climbing history. The grim details of the tragedy haunted me for years and remain etched in my mind. But the accident did not stop me from climbing. In fact, that trip was the first in what would become a five-year career as a mountain guide that took me to high peaks in Nepal, Pakistan, Russia and the Andes. You may think I'm a reckless nut. Likewise, many people think that those who were caught in the tragic accident on Mount Hood on May 30 were foolish or irresponsible. To the non-climbing world, these awful accidents reinforce a perception of climbers as risk-addicted thrill-seekers. And the sight of rescuers endangering their lives -- or a rescue going awry as it did on Mount Hood -- renews calls for charging climbers for the cost of rescues. There is no question that climbing involves risk. That is why most climbers spend much of their time assessing, and seeking to avoid, risk. In fact, I have never been involved in an activity where virtually everyone is so single-mindedly focused on safety. Before I ever set foot on a mountain, there were drills on how to set anchors, prevent hypothermia or dehydration. Later came lessons mitigating altitude sickness, assessing avalanche risk and administering first aid. Countless other pursuits involve balancing risk and safety. Boaters, skiers and mountain bikers balance risk and adventure. Merely setting off on a hike in the wilderness can be risky. There's no precise way to compare the relative risk of these activities. Yet, the number of climbing-related deaths, while not insignificant, is not inordinate. During the 1990s, as the popularity of climbing soared, and tens of thousands of climbers throughout the United States took to the mountains every weekend, an average of 27 deaths were reported each year. Perhaps because climbing takes place in an unfamiliar environment of cliffs and crevasses, glaciers and extreme weather, it is perceived as far more dangerous than it really is. Commercial gimmicks such as the X-Games and the well-publicized stunts of a few add to that image. Still, why waste taxpayers money rescuing climbers indulging in their need for adventure? Because charging for rescues would have a string of unintended negative consequences. The most vocal opponents of rescue fees, it turns out, are not climbers, but rescuers. Charging for rescues would lead stranded climbers to delay calls for help until the last possible minute, increasing the risk to climber and rescue crew alike, says Charley Shimansky, education director of the Mountain Rescue Association, a group representing 3,000 search-and-rescue volunteers. An alternative, charging climbers as a group through user fees, is inherently unfair. ``The vast majority of rescues we perform are for a kid who walked off a camp site or mushroom pickers who got lost,'' says Shimansky, who is also executive director of the American Alpine Club. According to 2001 data from the National Park Service, climbers accounted for about 5 percent of rescues, whereas boaters, swimmers and hikers combined accounted for some 70 percent. If one user group gets charged, others should be charged proportionally. But even fees fairly distributed across user groups present problems. In a recent Wyoming case, the Park Service was sued for allegedly providing an inadequate rescue. The suit was thrown out when a federal judge ruled that the Park Service had no obligation to provide a rescue. Rescue fees would imply the duty to help, and a single jury award for a rescue seen as inadequate could end up costing taxpayers far more. Finally, the perception that rescues impose huge costs on taxpayers is incorrect. Most ground crews are made up of volunteers. Military and National Guard helicopter pilots are required to perform a minimum number of search-and-rescue operations every year to stay current. If climbers didn't call for help, they would have to incur similar costs with mock rescues. Some of the worst climbing accidents, such as the one on Mount Hood, happen when too many people, including many inexperienced climbers, converge on the same mountain. Ongoing education by the climbing community and park rangers, along with sensible limits on use, through permits, would go a lot further than rescue fees in saving taxpayer's money -- and lives.
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quote: Originally posted by climberbro16: What would be a good 2-3 day climb to take my dad on. He has lots of hiking experiance but has never climbed. What would be a good climb to take him on that is not to boring but not to difficult either. Im looking for alpine or glacier climbs.Any Suggestions? Chris You might want to try east ridge of Eldorado - the ridge makes for stupendous views, and the approach is a nice hike. Might not be the best for him if he's not comfortable with exposure though. Carl
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Poseur is right that sooner or later you will own a single wall - but unless you dedicate your life to fast an light you won't use it. For most trips I prefer TNF's Mountain Tent/Mountain 25 - it's a bit bigger than the Bibler which is nice for skiing trips, and when your stuck in a tent. Sure it weighs 8 lbs - but your not kissing the guy next to you in it. And it has a vestibul you can cook in. And at $330 for the 2001 model from Campmor it's a lot cheaper than a Bibler.
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quote: Originally posted by Self propelled: My wife and I will be living in Kathmandu. She will be teaching at the Lincoln School and I will be a volunteer for Room to Read. My work will likely get me to some of the villages in Mustang, Pokhara, Kathmandu Valley region. We will be there for at least two years during which time we hope to amass many miles trekking through out Nepal. I doubt we will make any attempts on the 8K meter peaks but we will have the time and the proximity to explore some rarified air. School breaks should also allow us to travel to Thailand where I'm told there are climbs which require belay from a boat. I think that's pretty cool. Should be an excellent experience! If I'm every in Kathmandu (maybe!) I'll definitely drop by. Carl
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#1 & #2 are on sale for $42 & $45 at awgear.com - I know nothing about the company, but this is a damn good deal! http://www.awgear.com/products/index.cfm?fuseaction=details&product_id=2257&requ esttimeout=900 [ 06-07-2002, 11:13 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]
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quote: Originally posted by Poseur: Wetsuits are not mandatory in SD, a novel respite. The wax may reek havoc on the inner thighs though. Bring a gun. Agree on both counts - especially the gun. Wear it prominently - unless you have the physique(& attitude od Mike Tyson) San Diego's rashguard and boardshorts - get'em long and you shouldn't have any problem with wax. That said it's nice to surf there - lots of classic waves. And your right its alot warmer than Oregon (of course Hawaians complain that the San Diego is cold) Have fun Dave!
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As a sidenote to the 4Runner - what are you going to be doing in Nepal? Carl
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quote: Originally posted by Big Wave Dave: Everyone duck, here's the spray: Liberty Ridge Liberty Crack Surfing in San Diego Wind Rivers (routes undecided) E Face Early Morning Spire I think it's rather dangerous to spray about it beforehand, don't tick off the mountain gods, you know? So take all this with a grain of salt-- You never know what can happen... Why San Diego? There are a lot of nice waves between Portland and San Diego - most of them without a couple of 100 angry teenagers too! Carl
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quote: Originally posted by bellemontagne: What tele boots do you have?? I heard a rumour that Black Diamond Sabretooths will fit tele boots (although they may only fit Scarpa boots). I've gotten Sabretooths to work on both Supercomps and Snowfields. I don't know about other brands of plastic boots. Carl
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quote: Originally posted by Norman Clyde: I've heard that Fels Naphtha soap is best for this, but since it's an oil, any reasonably good soap, as well as the petroleum products mentioned above, should work. Having lived in Virginia I have far to much experience with Poison Oak/Ivy. The best Granite their swims in it between May and September. Fels Naptha is bar none the best solution to the problem (do a double head to toe soaping) - Ivory soap doesn't work nearly as well - and the scented crap like Dove is a total waste. Acetone/Alcohol and other heavy crap is for the real evil - Chiggers! Carl
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quote: Originally posted by fleblebleb: That @#$% toe always gets in the way. I'd like to be able to use the same crampons for plastic tele boots and soft leather hikers/sneakers. Anybody have a rec? Preferrably aluminum ones? I haven't found any aluminums that work, yet. But then I've given up trying, because kicking steps in tele boots blows. For my tele boots I have a pair of Grivel 2F's with the weirdo sprung wire toe. I know people who use BD Sabretooths - they seem to work better than the 2F's and are more versatile as a climbing crampon(not to mention a better crampon on the whole) Carl
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REI - Better products for outdoor lifestyles.
cj001f replied to glacier_dup1's topic in Climber's Board
quote: Originally posted by slothrop: A two-speed hand crank, eh? How 'bout you just crank it fast or slow? I can see someone getting this for their road-trip-mobile, just bolt it to the dash and have fresh peanut butter/banana/ice cream/rum shakes all the way to Yosemite. One problem(and the reason why I think it's a true piece of crap) - the handle isn't hinged in any manner, so you need to have the blender on the edge of a table/other 90 edge. In short the only place I could figure out it's be useful was in the campground. Surprised? -
URGENT: Write NOW. Snowmobiles vs. skiers, Yellowstone, deadline May29!
cj001f replied to wolffie's topic in Climber's Board
quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: as I understand it, the snowmachine-packed trails have been of benefit to the large mammals of Yellowstone. They expend less energy walking them, and winter-survival rates are higher. Yes the well packed trails have benefited the large mammals - they have not benefitted the wolves however - who rely on the advantage of their larger feet. The wolves(and the grizzzlies who scavenge the winter kill carrion) are a much more unique population than the large mammals, who exist in a majority of the "wild" West, and whose numbers have been growing/stable over the past decade. I fail to see the difference in allowing a 4-stroke(i.e. low pollution), muffled snowmobile to use paved tracks - and the hordes of cars in the park between Memorial Day and Labor Day. Christ the snowmobile makers could make a fortune selling these beasts! Carl -
quote: Originally posted by bellemontagne: Petzl now owns Charlet Moser. Hmm... I would be interested to know what his real name is... He was the head of 'Everest' Climbing - some Euro brand? They make, and I quote, "clothes and articles for the high mountains" If you speak Spanish - here it is from the source: http://www.laopiniondemalaga.es/maghoy02524/Sucesos/1Sucesos.html La víctima, el multimillonario J.H.M., de 49 años, de nacionalidad suiza, era propietario de la multinacional 'Everest´, dedicada a la ropa y artículos de alta montaña, y poseía una fortuna personal cifrada en más de 300 millones de euros (unos 50.000 millones de pesetas), según precisaron fuentes cercanas al caso. [ 05-23-2002, 10:41 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]
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quote: Originally posted by Son of Caveman: America's Cup is for pussys. Real American men are into the APBA- "venues across Scandinavia, Europe and the Middle East" Yeha! That's American!
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quote: Originally posted by Crackhead: Looks like I'll be switching rags to wipe my ass with. That's what Outside Magazine's for!