cj001f

I'll give a second to the citrus cooler, like all of the Cytomax flavors it's a little odd - but I like it. There's also an Orange flavor that's alright, but I preferred the Tropical Punch. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Off White: Anybody remember Moutain Gazette? It was more arty, a big newsprint magazine. If I ever get those bookshelves done I'll have to exhume the old collection from it's dusty carboard cartons. Mountain Gazette was/is a most excellent publication. It's been reborn www.mountaingazette.com and's working it's way up to the level it was in the past. If your wishing of the old days, this past summer a collection of the best of mountain gazette cameout too. As for Colorado - who needs it. [ 10-14-2002, 08:02 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: Climbing Magazine sues Rock and Ice: http://www.outdoorbiz.com/outdoorretailer/search/article_display.jsp?vnu_content_id =1516090 Climbing Magazine Publisher Sues Competitor Rock & Ice "They've stolen our claim to highest ad to content ratio" "Primedia (media behemoth) is outraged at the calculated attack launched by Rock & Ice to usurp Climbing magazines prime position in the drivel market", says Montgomery Wolfe senior Outdoorsy magazine marketdroid at Primedia. "We've carefully cowtowed to our advertisers for years - even special editorials! And this is how the repay us? We'll fight them the only way we know how - via lawyers! Hell with this making a better magazine crap, then we might have to give something to the community." Duane Raliegh, formerly of Climbing magazine, fires back. "For years now, neither Climbing nor Rock & Ice, have been giving the customer what they want - more ad pages, more often. Sure we had that big burst in the late 90's. But the dotcoms have folded, and we're not as chic as we were. The new Rock & Ice will fight this trend - new fashion spreads on bouldering clothes, streaming video of Dave Graham 24*7 on our website, and of course, more ads. Plus we'll give you 3 more issues a year (of course we'll have the same number of articles & pictures, just stretch them a little thinner)"

quote: Originally posted by Jim: The primary limitation of digital cameras, if you're looking for good photos, is the lens. The optics are just not up to those of film cameras, until recently. Nikon has recently introduced a DX series that uses Nikon 35mm lenses!! Big improvement, but pricey. If you're just looking for point-and-shoot quality though the there's so me good suggestions above. yes and no - most of the current DC optics are as good as conventional P/S camera optics - i.e. molded with maybe some touch up grinding, which is usually up to what most people(unfortunately) expect from a camera - however, if you want to take good pictures, good quality lens are the only way to go. What makes a much bigger difference for DC buyers than the glass is the software setup the camera uses - it can make a big difference in the the quality of image saved, and time between shots. Several of the new Kodaks will allow for user download of software upgrades (a big plus since for alot of cameras only the CCD & the softare change between models) Worth a thought. Carl

quote: Originally posted by jordop: Houellebecq, "Elementary particles". Had to go to the Ham to get it when it first came out. I can't say that I'm a big fan of Houellebecq ... he's a bit too French for me. Frederic Tuten (Tintin in the New World) ia about as far as I can tread down that path. Dru - Ambrose Bierce is excellent! and all of Trevanian's books are worthwhile as light reading(Eiger Sanction probably would appeal most here). Dead Souls (Gogol) is excellent - but Gogol was a better short story writer (the Overcoat is excellent), Isaac Babel also excelled at the Russian short story, an excellent but little known short story writer is Vasily Shukshin (hard to find an affordable edition around aside from Amazon).

quote: Originally posted by erik: i know this topic sux....but so do the books i am attempting to read please share.... "A night of serious drinking" - Rene Daumal (also wrote Mont Analogue - an excellent climbing/exploration novel) The Octopus - Frank Norris Cannery Row - John Steinbeck (or any other Steinbeck) The Air-Conditioned Nightmare- Henry Miller One of my favorite books of all time is The Master & Margarita - Mikhail Bulgakov all around excellent, though works better to read it around easter Kerouac's good too, as is Kundera, or Ivan Pelevin Carl

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Off trail while wearing ungainly boots, they "really serve a purpose". Off trail I find them most useless - at least in the bushwacking mess that's the PNW..... In my experience they're useful 1) With Snowshoes 2) When your carrying a big freaking pack (80+ pounds) 3) On really shitty trails in places like the Adirondacks where your climbing down 10ft mudcoated rock sections (most of the trails in the Adirondacks are like this) Other than these times I've found them to be a wonderful way for REI to increase sales. Titanium trekking poles? I have an old pair of collapsible ski poles I use occaisonally for this purpose. Has any one else noticed a widening of trails due to the trekking pole trend? Carl [ 09-18-2002, 11:12 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by klenke: I was going to climb Gannett this year from Elkhart trailhead in mid-June but there was too much snow still. I wouldn't be so sure - I was there mid-July (not this year - a couple back), and the snow about as bad as could be - about knee/mid thigh when you sank through on just about every step (and it didn't get cold enough to freeze at night) Another 2 weeks and it should have been fine though. Others advice is excellent - no need for a guide, and pack light, or just combine it into a week backpack/fishing trip - makes for a very pleasant excursion. It's just a snowslog. For an unexpected cultural experience, stop by the Old Yellowstone Garage in Dubois (is it still run by the short gay guy and his butch wife?) Carl

Essenshell != Major Cash Flow ! Call the Outlet in Dillon - the Jacket & Pullover (which is almost the same, and climbs better) have been on special often (as low as $59 or so) Carl

quote: Originally posted by wdietsch: considering a soft shell (finally) jacket, wondering what everyone out there thinks .. what do you like and why? Go with the Classic - Cloudveil Serendipity. Nice cut, durable - and on sale at their website right now!

quote: Originally posted by sketchfest: Seems a little silly that they would post their retailers plan like that. Now everybody can see how bad their getting jacked per issue. You looked at the margin on that (insert whatever gear/clothing you just bought) lately?

quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: I brought a tarp and a tent for a two month paddling trip down the coast of BC. Never once set up the tent. I've used tarps much in the BWCA - they work excellent for water bound trips, when your spending much time at a low elevation amongst trees. I've yet to find a tarp particularly versatile for a mountaineering trip - they're a pain to set up above treeline (yes you can set them up well - but I don't spend 30 minutes making camp), and they dont' handle adverse weather as well.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: [QBWaves and climbs? No way. The vast majority of ridable waves go unridden; Most climbable days on ice and rock routes pass without climbers. Get into the backcountry. Drive a little further. Travel abroad.[/QB] The vast majority of ridable waves may indeed go unridden - but when you paddle out at 3am and there are already people in the water.........

"How many of you have ended up with giardia or other protista-related maladies?" I've never come down with Giardia - I have had Schigella from the woods however. And that was nasty, very nasty. It was not passed on from the water though - I have a trip companion to thank Because of that "experience" I spend much more time washing dishes in camp than worrying about the water (at least deep in the woods) Carl

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: "a) Actualy law suits are pretty rare in the industry and are often settled by insurance companies for "cost of defense." The law is defintely on the guide's side. The highest case in this state was an RMI case in which old Lou won...it was thrown out and never made it to trial..and it was sustained on appeal. There is also a CA case that had a similar result. You are generally correct Rodchester, however there are changes potentially coming to the guiding world (as the above linked Outside magazine article summarizes nicely) And never underestimate the will of well back "wronged parties" http://www.ourayiceclimbing.com/lawsuit.html

quote: Originally posted by trask: Just curious--what's the deal with so many climbers either unemployed or working shit jobs for no pay? Becasue we are too good for corporate America ?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: tape a mirror over it? Or a piece of black tape. My favorite Idea was to put a chopper wheel in front of it - really screw up there numbers! Carl

quote: Originally posted by jon: I really doubt they have motion sensors up there. Most of the detectors I've seen haven't been true motion sensors - they have "intrusion/pass" detectors that record everytime the beam is blocked. You cna always tell these because there's a mirror on one side of the trail - and the light source on the other side. I've seen them in National Parks, and in State Parks(CA) - often times if you go check out the back of the sensor they have a rolling counter that shows how many times it's been triggered. Now the border problems has a whole suite of intrusion detectors (the Mexican one definitely does). Carl

quote: Originally posted by allison: The idea that they only burn half of the fuel is bunk. It's not that the stove can't burn all of the fuel in the can - the MSR canisters leave little left over. I don't like taking partially burned canisters on a trip - and I like taking a 2nd canister along as backup even less. So I end up with a bunch of partially used fuel canisters. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: Anybody have any experience with the service department? I could not find a US phone Number on their site. E-mail works alright, or you can buy the replacement parts from their website. Their shipping fee is a bit expensive, but it works. Overall better than you'd expect from the people at the end of the Thruway Carl

Here's the text: Internet Sites Have a Toehold Over U.S. Shops for Climbers By KEITH JOHNSON Staff Reporter of THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Carlos Barrabes put his family's climbing-gear shop on the Internet five years ago, looking for a bigger market than the tiny mountain hamlet of Benasque, Spain (pop. 1,000). But he never thought success in the U.S. market would boomerang. The U.S. accounts for about 25% of Mr. Barrabes's €8 million ($7.8 million) in annual sales. But he recently hit an obstacle. Since Christmas, his American suppliers have been reluctant to buy his gear, which they resell to U.S. customers. Lower wholesale prices in Europe and hit-and-miss custom duties in the U.S. enable Mr. Barrabes to undercut his U.S. counterparts. That has caused a backlash among U.S. climbing shops. Much of the industry has begun calling for a boycott of "European discount dot-coms" to protect U.S. shops from Barrabes .com and other European Web sites. "Are dot-coms spelling doom for climbing shops?" asked an editorial last month in Climbing, a popular American climbing magazine. This is the normal globalization script turned on its head: Rather than the American leviathan crushing small outfits in foreign countries, a handful of small European dot-coms, led by a pair of isolated shops in the Pyrenees, has an entire industry nervous. Even though climbing gear is a niche market, the dispute illuminates some of the challenges of globalization. Price differentials, fluctuating exchange rates, and different business models in various countries can make a mockery of what some call the "borderless economy." "It's absurd," Mr. Barrabes says. "They're just afraid we'll get huge if they leave us alone -- and they're right." He blames big retail markups and an inefficient purchasing process for higher prices in the U.S. "The truth of the Internet is that the best company is the best regardless of where it's based." American rock and ice climbers have grappled with limited equipment selection and relatively high prices for years; many take advantage of trips to Europe to stock up on specialized equipment at lower prices. Until the arrival of Internet shopping, the American and European climbing markets remained largely isolated from each other. For the past two years, though, Barrabes .com and a few other online stores have burst onto the U.S. outdoor market, helped by the generally strong dollar, which makes their goods cheaper. American climbers often discuss where to get the best gear at the best price and Barrabes's name is being heard more often. That is precisely the problem. Are the European companies thriving simply because the American market is accustomed to hefty margins and burdened with an antiquated purchasing and distribution system? Or are they taking advantage of lax customs and sales-tax enforcement to undersell their American counterparts? In its editorial, Climbing said continued growth of the foreign sites "could upend the U.S. climbing economy." The publication announced a moratorium on dot-com advertisements, a decision that was followed by other industry publications in the U.S. and Britain. "We've got to buy time to let the industry get its game plan together," says Duane Raleigh, the author of the editorial in Climbing and now publisher of rival magazine Rock & Ice. "A lot of those retailers have been serving the community for 30-odd years; most of those dot-coms have only been around a short while. The government will have to come up with some kind of solution, like it did with steel, to put [gear sold by foreign sites] into line with domestic prices." But trying to support mom-and-pop stores during retail revolutions can be tricky business. In France and Spain, regulation aimed at protecting small retailers backfired, says Jose Luis Nueno, a professor who studies the retail sector at Barcelona's IESE business school. Other industry dynamics complicate the issue of protecting small shops: Many local climbing outlets in the U.S. have succumbed to large retail chains like Recreation Equipment Inc. of Seattle. "Regulation does not work in retailing. It is an unstoppable force," he says. Unstoppable or not, retailers are worried. "If this is left unchecked, it would put us out of business rather quickly," says Rich Gottlieb, owner of the Rock & Snow climbing shop in New Paltz, N.Y. He says he has warned publishers, distributors, and other retailers to take steps to counter the threat from foreign Web sites undercutting U.S. shops. The nature of climbing gear makes it difficult to compare with books, music or other merchandise sold online, or even most goods sold in retail outlets. Many people in the industry stress that local shops are crucial because they provide on-site expertise, fitting, and advice for gear that's often used in life-or-death situations. "I feel like I'm trying to protect climbers as much as myself," Mr. Gottlieb says. "I'm more a climber than a businessman, and there's so many things we do locally that you can't do online." For many climbers, the issue isn't a problem. "Most people go to their local shop when they first start climbing and spend a bundle," says Charity Dominic, a rock climber and backpacker in San Diego. "Then climbers go online and realize, 'hey, this is where you really shop.' " She bought her rack -- the hefty collection of slings, carabiners, cams, nuts and other equipment needed for rock climbing -- for about $600 online; the same rack cost about $1,500 in nearby retail outlets. "Unless the local stores start to compete on price, that kind of lobbying [against European sites] just won't work," she says. European companies also bristle at the suggestion, raised in the Climbing editorial as well as by distributors and retailers, that they are slashing prices and forsaking profits just to carve a handhold in the U.S. "We stick to the prevailing prices in the French market," says Neil Hardy, owner of Telemark-pyrenees.com, another site popular with U.S. shoppers. "It's a very competitive market, with very low margins, and if we raised prices 50 cents we'd lose business. U.S. retailers are used to fat margins." The U.S. market accounts for about half of Telemark's sales, he says. Mr. Barrabes says his model is similar. "Our prices are competitive, but they're hardly the bargain of the century -- and we're still turning a profit." Selling online at a level consistent with the lower wholesale and retail prices in Europe, largely the result of a more competitive market, doesn't sit well with U.S. manufacturers either. "We're not very happy to see the Internet retailers doing what they're doing," says Christian Jaggi, managing director for European operations of Black Diamond Equipment Ltd. in Utah. Black Diamond, which sells some of its gear in Europe at lower wholesale prices than in the U.S., stopped supplying Mr. Barrabes during the spring because he refused to stop shipping the gear back to the U.S. "U.S. retailers don't like to see cheap prices for Black Diamond gear on the web," he says, especially when they watch customers use staff time to try out gear, only to make the final purchase online. Hit-and-miss customs payments are an annoyance. Duties are rarely levied on online purchases from Europe, while U.S. distributors with licenses to import European equipment for retail outlets are obliged to pay. "I don't think it's fair for European Internet companies to say I'm price-gouging when they are, in many cases, violating trademarks, customs duties, and sales taxes," says Ed Sampson, president of Sportiva USA, a distributor for Italian footwear maker La Sportiva SpA. Many participants in the U.S. climbing industry concede the explosion of foreign Internet sites highlights inefficiencies and abuses in the American market. "I do think prices need to come down," says Mr. Gottleib of Rock & Snow. "I don't know if the U.S. market isn't being exploited to a certain degree." Even Mr. Raleigh, whose editorial helped ignite the public debate on the issue, concedes the climbing industry was caught off-guard by a revolution that already had changed the face of much of retailing. Of the industry's campaign to protect U.S. companies, he says: "I don't know if this is really the best approach."

There is a very interesting article on Barrabes & the whole overseas purchasing of climbing gear in today's (7/8/2002) Wall Street Journal, page A14. Among other things it mentions that 25% of Barrabes sales ($7.8million yearly) are from the US. I'll try to dig up my online subscription and post the full text. Carl

I'll second the recommendation to get real Glacier Glasses from opticus. They may take a bit longer, but they are excellent. I went with the Julbo Mont Blanc Micropore - a darn nice frame - though the classic round works too. Stay away from the plastic aviator style julbo frames some Optometrists offer - the frames are cheap, and the lenses usually aren't dark enough. I can't say that I recommend plastic lenses. Yes they are a bit lighter, but they scratch much, much easier. As for Ice Climbing w/o glasses - I can't say that I've ever had problems with glasses fogging - or goggles, if you put them away for the approach, and put some scuba type anti fog stuff inside. Carl

quote: Originally posted by glen: Is there any type of agency recording 'Nays' on the fee demo, or is the count based on only a tallying of 'Yays'? To the best of my knowledge their is no agency which publicly records Nya votes. Anyways - if you want to learn from the beauracrats ass(his mouth): http://www.fs.fed.us/recreation/programs/feedemo/index.shtml Carl

quote: Originally posted by leithal: I was not happy when the demonstration came along either, but unfortunately I think it is past the "demonstration" phase and is now fully implemented until it gets voted out. Wrongo. Uh Unh. Right now is the final big "push" for acceptance of the feedemo program - it hasn't been placed into permanent law yet, and it won't be, if we complain enough. As for what sucks about fee-demo - you don't have to diagree with the fee to think the implementation of it sucks. By buying the pass you vote yes for fee-demo - but you can't use the land wihtout buying the pass(otherwise you get ticketed). So in order to legally use the land, you have to vote yes for fee-demo. One of the more crooked schemes to measure public acceptance if you ask me. As for the Forest Service as a business - I won't go into that here. But you might want to remember that the Forest Service spent more money administering, and building roads for the logging companies than it took in in logging fees. Carl [ 07-01-2002, 08:20 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]