cj001f

Rock & Ice definitely has potential under Raleigh. And Climbing probably doesn't have much potential with Primedia (I can't say they've done much to improve their other publications) On magazines - has anybody heard anything about "Alpinist" a new rag that's coming out? http://www.alpinist.com A short story's here:> http://www.jacksonholenews.com/Archives/FeatureArchive/2002/020327-feature.html I've also heard Dean Potter's name affiliated with the project Carl [ 05-17-2002, 07:22 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by climberted: I pulled a boneheaded move on my last ice trip and didn't let my screws dry out properly .Now they have a little rust on them. Whats the best way to get rid of it? Steel Wool - available at any Hardware store, usually in the paint department. It's best to eliminate the corrosion immediately, not to let it sit around all summer. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Stefan: All others: A lot of you complain about the land not being free for public use. THE LAND IS FREE FOR PUBLIC USE! It is just that the trails and and pit toilets at trailheads are not free. If you can't access w/o paying - THE LAND IS NOT FREE! All you've done is shifted the charge. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Stefan: People pay for fishing licenses. This is recreation. (You still pay state taxes.) Uh - the majority of fishing livense fees goes to support hatcheries & put and take fisheries. This is an ongoing cost - and directly related to the recreation. Using old logging roads to access trailheads is of minimal cost - and I've already paid for the construction of these to subsidize the logging industry. Yes they have upkeep costs and administrative costs - but these could be paid for by other revenue sources. And no I still wouldn't pay if the Forest Circus were held accountable for their waste, sloth and incompetence. Carl

"All of this will be packed into a week in the wilderness, supported by a basecamp well stocked with food, climbing gear and even a keg of microbrew, and offering the opportunity to climb three of the high summits, if the weather holds." As much as I love beer, and love beer in the woods even more - drinking beer that you have to pay for just ain't right. And this does sound alot like whitewater rafting trips. Or flyfishing trips. Or Everest climbs. Carl

quote: i thought if you were a Yank you had to claim to prefer Krispy Kreme over Tim Ho?[/qb]I suppose I should be patriotic, but Krispy's are only good if you get them hot off the line. Tim's are good all day long - and better on the way to the trailhead. Best ever donuts are at the Laundromat/Indian Crafts/Coffeshop in Tupper Lake, New York though. Donuts are a bit of a fetish. Carl [ 04-23-2002, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by fern: your tax dollars maybe, not mine 'cause I am 1) Canadian, 2) poor. nevertheless I stand corrected. We will assimilate you yet in our quest for Tim Horton's donuts and never ending mountain ranges!

quote: Originally posted by fern: [QB]Iridium phone = paperweight that network is dead, I think they started dropping the satellites out of orbit even. Nope - Wrongo. Iridium Network = your tax dollars at work. The military bailed them out, the company has restructured and is now much smaller, but still offers commercial service including data (up to 64kbps?). They are even replacing the deorbiting birds http://spaceflightnow.com/delta/d290/status.html

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Any technophiles out there? I've been tracking a couple expeditions this Spring through their online dispatches. (For example, Ed Viesturs at Annapurna http://www.edviesturs.com/dispatches and a couple hauling to the North Pole http://www.thepoles.com). It seems that they call in their reports which are transcibed and put online. They also send images. I'm curious as to how this is currently done. Who are the main satellite phone carriers? How much does a phone weigh and cost? How much do minutes cost? Is it possible to attach a palmtop and send and receive text on a faster timescale than voice? How are images sent (via FTP?)? What about sending video? http://www.iridium.com/ http://www.globalstar.com/ http://www.inmarsat.com/ The above should answer most of your questions. There are multiple vendors willing to rent you a satelite phone. Tis my understanding that most of the satelite phone systems have poor data transmission rates (they were all designed before the boom in data traffic) As for exact protocols, I don't know. Carl [ 04-23-2002, 11:30 AM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: I've carried a firearm openly in Wrangell/St Elias as did all others I encountered. The rangers I talked to saw it and one even told me it was "a good idea" as bear problems were likely. ( he was right...but no, I didn't use the gun. ) This was well inside the park boundary. Is the "no firearms rule" selectively enforced? I would guess in this case, as in many other things, it is a case of Alaska being different than the lower 48. I can't think of any park in the lower 48 where the Ranger would let it fly(but I could be wrong, and probably will be proven). I do know of several cases of people being cited in Yellowstone, Redwood and Shenandoah NP Carl

quote: As for a firearm in a NP; I've heard that this rule (law?) is probably unconstitutional and that the Govt' lets apprehended (posession) violators off because they know this rule would be deemed so in court. I'm not sure the right to protect one's self/family ends at a NP boundary. But when I read irresponsible comments about executing snowmobilers I wonder if the ban is a good idea.Sorry to burst your Bubble Fairweather - but the no Firearms law in National Parks does stand up in court. At least once a month - read their Morning Report. It's generally applied in situations when the user has violated other federal laws - but that's because it's the only time the over worked rangers have time to notice guns. I would guess a Desert Eagle would make a nice end to a 'bile. Carl

quote: Originally posted by cuz: Anyone care to comment on these and other ascension "devices" and how they compare with each other? Cuz[/QB] I've used a Tibloc, both versions of the Ropeman and other sundry ascenders. Both the Tibloc and the Ropeman work, but I'd say the Ropeman is preferable to the Tibloc. The Ropeman functions more like a "real" ascender, and is much nicer for repeated ascending - and it's teeth aren't as likely too chew up the sheath on your rope. For both you need locking biners. That said I'd spend the money to get real ascenders - they're much more comfortable for the second - and if you don't have spare lockers that will fit, the price difference isn't that much. Carl

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: I don't know who the intended consumer would be for the roll-top pack, but it would be great to have one for serious canyoneering and caving. A good quality Roll Top packs would be good if it was done like the H20Proof Patagucci pack, so you have a seperate compartment for wet stuff - the combination of a dry bag & pack works better though as it's more flexible(and cheaper. The Arc'teryx packs are a bit froofy for dirt/other crap too. Better caving/canyoneering packs here http://www.caves.org/imo/ Carl

quote: Originally posted by Stonehead: [QB] quote: If you weren't there, dont bother commenting. all to easy to second guess the dead based on the view from your armchair. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Amen. Then, …this is a dead thread. But, I’m not talking on the personal level. That’s altogether another thing and should be left alone by media, informal or otherwise. Why climb? So I tried to answer that with what I believe to be the philosophical underpinning of why you climb whether you articulate it or not. Silence as a response is a shrinking away, a contraction of my being. My action is a counter to that. Why do you climb? QB] This thread should be dead. It serves little purpose at the present time, in it's present incarnation. Speculating, with minimal facts, so shortly after an accident borders on the ghoulish. I have no problem with discussion of climbing motivation - that however, is best done on a different thread.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: If you weren't there, dont bother commenting. all to easy to second guess the dead based on the view from your armchair. Amen.

quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx: Gore Tex in boots is good from what I have seen and heard from friends, like La Sprtivas GTX series. My eigers can get soaked even after nixwaxed, but maybe it's just me and I need to hit the bong harder. Uh Goretex doesn't change the leather getting soaked through at all. It may change your feet getting wet. The Goretex layer is inside the outer layer of leather - if you don't want the leather wetting through apply Biwell, Nikwax, or the like to it. I keep my boots well waterproofed - have never had a problem. The main reason Gore came up with using it in footwear is to boost there sales volume(see Wall Street Journal) As for the Ice Axe question. Your talking about Momentum. Think about hammers. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Zenolith: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1818468051 Great for those partners that move a little to close in the bivy tent! Or a career as a Vancouver farmer.....

quote: Originally posted by nolanr: Thanks for the replies all. Sounds like conditions should be pretty decent. So, the bugs are a problem, eh? What I couldn't figure out, when I was down there last year, they have less average snowpack and moisture than the Cascades, but there are lakes absolutely everywhere. There's places I've been in Montana/Wyoming that had a lot of alpine lakes, too, but not that much I don't think. Where does all the water come from? And hasn't LA figured out a way to steal all of it yet? LA & SF both! Just think of all the big walls in Hetch Hetchy! Makes one almost want to cry! As for the lakes - it's all about the granite. Wind Rivers start to compare, depending on. A good sleeping pad is much appreciated out in the Range of Light. Enjoy the trip - and bring the DEET! Carl

quote: Originally posted by Stefan: I have done the standard route on Big Kangaroo. As well as Mushroom Tower in an easy day. If you end up doing Big Kangy from the hairpin on whatever route you do, make sure you do it in June or earlier so you can do a kick ass glissade down. I did it without snow and it was a pain in the ass coming down the scree. A second on the scree sucking. Lots of it. Small, loose, a pain in the ass. Snow coverage would have made it much, much nicer. Carl

You were at Tahoe Easter weekend, right? The snowpack was almost 100% then - they had a whole bunch of articles talking about it. Then we had a week of warm and sunny. It was 70 in the high country Easter Sunday. Nuked the snowpack. All of the skiiers on the East Side are complaining. Anyways the place to check for depth measurements ishttp://cdec.water.ca.gov/snow/current/snow/courses.htmlBut it'll be a couple weeks before the next data is up.Carl [ 04-09-2002: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by Lambone:[QB]I was in the Tahoe last week. The local news reporter said that the annual moisture content survey showed that it has been a wetter than average year. They got dumped on hard in November and December.QB] Moisture Content surveys say 75%.http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/current/PlotSWCThe Rangers I talked to, while they were doing the snowpack survey, seemed to think it was below in Yosemite. If your in no hurry to plan you should have a good idea what conditions will be like in another month. Otherwise plan to bring an axe. You won't have to worry about weather though Carl

quote: Originally posted by nolanr: Travel arrangements are already made, so it's too late to change them. Just curious though. I'm going to visit my bro and his family at Edwards AFB 6/8-6/16. The 2 of us are going to play around in the Sierras, probably head up to Yos. In a typical year is there still a lot of snow at that point, or is it getting fairly melted out? We're not doing anything on big walls, mostly hiking and maybe a little scrambling. I'm particularly interested in the Cathedral Range/Ritter Range. Was down there last year in mid August, Muir Wilderness/Kings Canyon NP near Bishop, and everything was pretty well scorched by then, only snow was a few small glaciers on N faces. I was in Yosemite Easter Weekend. If anything this is a slightly below average year, meaning it should be decently melted out but early June. The valley was devoid of snow, and most of the snow within view of the valley should be gone by the end of the month. I'm headed up to Mt. Dana, etc. weekend after next - if your still curious I'll post the conditions I found. Carl

quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: what is comming down to is How often will you go out?If too often get a double wall (I have a great experience with TNF Mountain 25 althougt heavy But build like a brick house) for durability I also have the Bibler Eldorado two doors model which I really like for a fast and light ascents although mine is in excellent condition (8 years and going strong) I wouldn't try to push the envelope and subject the tent to constant use and abuse for this I have the TNF Having used a Mtn 25 for 7 years now, I cna attest to the durability. Very comfy for trips longer than 3-4 days, or if you expect to be tent bound. They are however heavy ~8lbs Carl

quote: Originally posted by b-rock: Anyone used a Petzl Shunt for top rope soloing? That's what a local climbing shop recomended, but I'm not sure I trust that advice... I've tried a Shunt for Toproping (and a Gibbs, and a....) The Shunt wasn't my favorite - it slipped a bit too much for comfort when I fell (and I only took short practice falls) What worried me more was the kink put in the rope at the bottom end of the shunt when weighted (and the Gibbs) I've seen photos, and heard stories of this causing rope failure at fairly low forces. For TRing I'd go back to a Soloist - they work better with smaller Diameter ropes (~9.5mm) you can get a new cam assembly from Wren for these. It feeds much better then. Or if you've got the money - get a Silent Partner. They are supposed to be the shit. Carl

Never seen a J. Crew catalog (who buys that stuff, anyway), but sellout? No way. BD has always made stickers, given out liberally by their folks. Guess now they are offering them as a regular item for order. These are not their regular BD stickers, they are Flames, Flowers, and other such for Helmets only. Why not make a little profit on the side? As for J. Crew - eastern Frat Boys & Sorostitutes Following BD and Patagonia catalogs since the 70's, they have always been at the fore of graphic and publishing design. They've always had some of the best catalogs around IMHO - what's interesting is when you compare prices from those catalogs. The Megamid listed for $150 in the 1981 Chouinard catalog. If they were in it to make a killing, they might have tried to increase the price on this one a bit. Carl