cj001f

$30 to have Dave Page resole the gaiters. Can't beat the deal. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Jedi: I need to scratch up a DAS Parka before May. Everyone I have called is out, including Patagonia mail order. Has anyone seen one at a local store? Could you provide me with a phone # if so? Thanks fella's! Jedi Try -http://www.whitepinetouring.com/insulation-patagonia-das-parka.htmlorhttp://www.outdoors4u.cc/content/estore_details.asp?product=20They may/may not work. As for the shortage - it seems it's chronic with the DAS and Patagonia. Been this way the last 2 winters - as to why they produce so few I don't know. Carl

quote: Originally posted by JoeTool: I found a pulsar for 137.00,does that sound good?also, do you need a wrench to change the shaft? $113 is definitely a good price. The shaft is attached with exactly the same nut/bolt as the pick and head. It's actually a nice design. As for the Sherpa Shaft - I must say I don't know. But I did find this:"Extra Shafts: Shaft normal 50 cm: 37.32 Shaft Ergo 50 cm: 43.46 Shaft Vanoise (65,70,75,80 cm): 37.32 Shaft (Sherpa: 7,616) 45.44 " Which is from www.thinkmountain.com another spanish gear store. Carl

quote: Originally posted by CleeshterFeeshter: Rock & Ice had this specific topic in an article about 3-4 years ago using readily available numbers (like those that attempt Rainier and register at National Parks to climb). The article essentially said the same thing; that climbing is mostly safe with lower accident statistics than many other sports.Many insurance policies contain "dangerous pursuits" exclusions but fail to identify climbing specifically. If one dies whilst climbing, the beneficiaries may need a good actuary and attorney to further research the numbers if the claim is denied. The article Cheester is probably talking about is in Rock & Ice #58(Lynn Hill freeing the nose on the cover)It's a multi page article written by Jeff Smoot titled "Is Climbing Really Dangerous" - It covers North Cascades risk, Mount Raineer risk, and probably whats most valuable - a comparison of estimated accident and fatality rates of various activitiesto excerpt, per 100,000 participants Mt. Rainier 341 accidents 24 deathsAutomobiles 2,100 accidents 19.1 deathsNorth Cascades 98 accidents 18.6 deathsGunks Climbing 100 accidents 1apx. death The above is a small excerpt from the table Carl

quote: Originally posted by wdietsch: boy, your just asking for trouble with a statement like this from this crew.. seriously now, if you really want a modular axe that can easliy adapt to either a somewhat general use to a decent techical tool I suggest looking at the CM Pulsar multi shaft, I think they still sell them? However not necesarily the best general purpose axe IMO I've got a multi. They kinda still sell them - it can be a pain to get the different shafts, they generally have to be ordered - it may be better to go the Barrabes route for the, seam to have a better selection. As a general mountaineering axe with the Adze and classic pick in place, it makes a very good axe, and is not that uncomfortable. It's by no means a light weight though w/ the 65cm shaft it weighs a bit more than my BD Alpamayo. You can also get a 75cm, and maybe a longer shaft, in addition to a 50cm straight, and a 50cm bent. With the short shaft or bent shaft it climbs as well as the regular Pulsar - that is to say very well. The extra shafts by them selves don't weight that much, but I'd worry about losing the bolt that attaches them to the upper, their's only one. It's not a real tool - but the Stubai Tourlite Telescope might be worth investigating (killerdeals.com - "Stubai") it converts from 60cm to 90cm. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Muhammad Ali: Carlyboy,Who the hell are you copping such an attitude and how many hours sleep did you need to discern what the hell my experiences are? In fact, I've spent 24+ hrs out on climbs a few times. I haven't found the lack of sleep as debilitating as you apparently have - but then you seem to be playing with less than a full deck to begin with.Mr. Ali Mr. Ali -Didn't mean to offend - but when you write "What advice would you have to make the experience more fun that it sounds?" I assumed you had little to no experience. So maybe I read you wrong. Oh Well. Seems you have the attitude to go with the name. If you want advice: -No coffee after about 20 hrs.-After some adrenaline - keep moving and maybe break the coffee rule - beware system crasses. And I wouldn't call sleep deprivation debilitating, just limiting. Carl

quote: Originally posted by chucK: For me there is definitely an hour or two where it is a real struggle to keep awake (2-4am, and 3pm) for me. I think that varies by person. Then, like you said, you're good to go again afterwards for hours. This is similar for me, and others - I believe it has to do more with the general lack of stimuli (it's dark, most people are in bed, I'm forced to focus on the task at hand). For coffee - I don't find that hot liquids put me too sleep - just caffiene after some point of sleep deprivation. My body doesn't like to eat after awhile without sleep either. Even Gu Carl

Oh Grand My Schlong is Longer than yours because I have a PHD completely unrelated to the topic at hand - and am therefore superior to someone who's done quite a bit of practical measurements. I hesitate to point out that - the failure mechanism for a sewn sling is much different than a girth hitch. On a sewn sling the force will be distributed equally across the sling from the wire. With a girth hitch the force will be directed onto a smaller area of the sling -(because the girth hitch will not lie flat - and the load will be directed across the axis of the sling) Think about it. And no it probably doesn't matter that much for most situations. But it will for some. Carl [ 03-21-2002: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Dude! I think that is his point. The part about "quite a bit of practical measurements" that is. There are tons of posters who posted that it is obviously stupid to girth hitch a wire but it is doubtful that many have done any practical measurements. I have not. If anybody else has, they have not posted their findings. Dru is the only one so far, but I didn't see anything yet that talked about girth hitches through wires? AFAICT Dru's experiments blew out a copperhead. [ 03-21-2002: Message edited by: chucK ] I was responding to his quote of:"I did find a quote from a one-time BS engineer, Chris Harmston:"As last I checked Chris had a MS, this was either an insult, or a mistake. From what I've seen - Chris is one of the few sources of reputable, at least quasi-scientific experiments. Russ Walling being another. Going against popular opinion is all well and good. You need data to go against popular opinion and be accpeted. Freeclimb has no data, no analysis - and nothing to back his opinion up besides spray. Merely questioning the validity of peoples analysises does nothing to establish the validity of his own. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Wallstein: Don't just toprope shit if you were to go cragging, this won't help at all. The goal of this practice is to fatigue your brain not just your body. Or don't practice at all and just go send something, that is the best practice. Chocolate covered espresso beans also help! My comment for TR'ing was menat in the sense - if you've never been w/o sleep before - start small. You should no pretty quickly if your good to go - and it ain't good to find this out in the middle of a pitch. If you know what your body does after awhile without sleep - just go climbing. As for the caffeine - I find after about 30hrs it starts to put me to sleep. Even 4x espressos. I've not tried any of the "recreational" solutions. Alasdair - I'm not sure if I'd call them hallucinations - but walking through the woods, with a crappy headlamp, tired, hungry, with a ways to go to the bivy - EVERYTHING you hear sound like it's out to get you. Makes you understand the fears of the forest in the middle ages. Carl

quote: Originally posted by jhc: Thanks again, I have a big map book, but the Caltrans website and hotline only tell me if a road is closed, no info about conditions on open roads through the mountains. Things could be "open" but 30 mph the whole way... Caltrans website will tell you current chain conditions - i.e r1 (2wd needs chains or snow tires)r2 (4wd w/snow tires or 2wd with chains)r3 (everyone chains - "The highway is usually closed before an R3 condition is imposed") If they don't have restrictions - traffic moves at 70. The beta others gave about the highways is right - if you take I5 and swing over use 80. 50 will be slow, 88 slower(but you can go to Kirkwood!) Carl

quote: Originally posted by Muhammad Ali: What experiences do you all have with 20, 30, 40 hour pushes? I am interested in leaving sleeping gear behind and staying on the move. What advice would you have to make the experience more fun that it sounds? Food? Gear? Emergency gear? Uh - I don't mean to be rude, but I'm going to be, you don't have much experience with sleep deprivation anywhere do you? Get some experience first. Try not going to sleep on Friday evening - TR with a friend on Sat. Afternoon - repeat a couple of times. Than start adding in alot of running before the TRing. Then you might be Marc Twight. From personal experience (not climbing) there's nothing particularly bad or uncomfortable about lack of sleep - and there's the added bonus that sleep feels like the best thing in the world, and you can sleep anywhere when your done. I'd probably never do a long push in the mountains because my(like most peoples) cognitive ability declines substantially after 24 hrs w/o sleep, and climbing isn't internalized enough for me to be safe. Which is what I'd worry about a hell of alot more than comfort - uh, did I tie in? Did I just drop the rope? You set the planer boards real shallow. Carl

quote: Originally posted by imorris: Impaction. The hooking action is key. As in Fecal Impaction?

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: The BD Alpamayo standard ice axe was around for more than a few years. My recollection is that it was made from the later 1980s until the late 1990s...but don't quote me on that. I think the design is at least that old - I rented awhile back, a Chouinard axe that is identical to my Alpamayo - putting it pre-87. As for axe durability - WTF do you people do with your axe's - Demolition? Trundling? Fee-Demo Direct Action? Carl

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: Good dialoge here... "Beckwith's source for the passage about selling the "sky, broad vistas, and fragrant flowers" is Terry Anderson, who, according to Scott Silver, is an advisor to Pres. Bush." Does that mean that this whole thing is Anderson's vision? Big stretch? Hmmm. Crying wolf? Rodchester - the following is the full quote from the article(direct)"A private park owned in fee simple absolute could be managed in a variety of ways. For example, the corporation could hold title to the land and charge admission. Under traditional tort principles the firm would owe a duty of reasonable care to the ticket purchaser who would be an "invitee." The firm could monitor entry at the gate and ration access to a wide variety of activities and amenities.45 Park visitors could be required to carry appropriate nontransferable permits, such as hiking or fishing stamps. The firm could issue stamps for such pursuits as spelunking, bird watching, fishing, hunting, or skiing. The stamps, in responding to the sensitivity of the price system would be as diverse as consumer preference could make them. The gate fee could cover such hard-to-charge-for amenities as the sky, broad vistas, and fragrant flowers. Specific fees might then be charged for particular amenities, such as caverns, geysers, and waterfalls. In this way, the cross-subsidization of consumers of particular amenities by nonusers could be reduced to a minimum. "The # 45 is the following footnote -"The following owes much to conversations with Terry Anderson. For a general discussion of legal aspects of parks and recreation areas under private control, see 4 Am.Jur.2d, Amusements and Exhibitions (1962 & Cum. Supp. 1980) You may want to note that this document was written in 1981. Not that Anderson's changed - as another CATO document(that he cowrote) from 1999 show's(the direct link is below this quote)- "Fully a third of the land area of the United States is owned by the federal government. Although many Americans support the preservation of those lands, analysts on the left and the right agree that the federal government has done an exceedingly poor job of stewarding those resources. Indeed, the failure of socialism is as evident in the realm of resource economics as it is in other areas of the economy. Four criteria should guide reform efforts: land should be allocated to the highest-valued use; transaction costs should be kept to a minimum; there must be broad participation in the divestiture process; and "squatters' rights" should be protected. Unfortunately, the land reform proposals on the table today fail to meet some or all of those criteria. Accordingly, we offer a blueprint for auctioning off all public lands over 20 to 40 years. Both environmental quality and economic efficiency would be enhanced by private rather than public ownership. Land would be auctioned not for dollars but for public land share certificates (analogous to no par value stock certificates) distributed equally to all Americans. Those certificates could be freely transferred at any time during the divestiture period and would not expire until after the final auction. Land would be partitioned into tracts or primary units, and corresponding to each tract would be a set of distinct, separable, elemental deed rights. Any individual with a documented claim to rights defined by those deeds, however, would be assigned the appropriate deed or deeds. Once divested, tract deed rights would be freely transferable."http://www.cato.org/pubs/pas/pa-363es.html While I may not like is policy - he can't be all bad "Anderson is an avid outdoorsman who enjoys fishing, skiing, and ice climbing"http://www-hoover.stanford.edu/bios/anderson_t.html I know it's long - but there needed to be some meat added.Carl

quote: Originally posted by imorris: Yes, mine has those little spring metal things, sorry for the syntax error. I guess I'll try to pop them out. Would be a bummer if they fell out later though. I could just see someone yarding on the axe shaft and the head comes off. I'd try some epoxy on the little metal piece, or on the bolt you replace it with. That and a little watching should do well.Carl

Yours is a different Alpamayo than mine if it has a screw holding the head on - mine has the ice axe standard press fit metal cylinder(ala Rei, etc.), which if your careful, you can punch out & replace with a similar type fitting - or use a bolt(unsightly) A little epoxy might add some filling to fix teh wobble. Or you could just send it back to BD. quote: Originally posted by imorris: See my above post. The Ushba was my replacement axe.Twasn't me asking about the Ushba Bro - I'm with the 'Mayo till death do us part.

quote: Originally posted by imorris: Had a BD Alpamayo for years before that, another solid contender built like a tank (and weighs about the same). Eventually the head came loose, hence my newer axe. I'm sure there are some Alpamayo users out there. Anyone know how to tighten down the head? I use an Alpamayo as my regular axe - it's almost indestructible, a bit heavy, but for a general axe I just want something I'll never replace - and I don't think a pound matters for snow slogs. imorris - where exactly did your head come loose? Where the head assembly fits to the shaft - or is the plastic fitting at the top decaying? Carl

Matt -Climbing #209 had a letter to the editor from Hank Moon, Technical Information Manager at Petzl America - It went" In reference to the Trad TEch Tip "Bloc party - increase simul-climbing safety" in No. 208, I think it is useful to point out that "simul-climbing safety" is a bit of an oxymoron. A good belay and solid intermediate protection are essential components of a modern climbing safety system. Also, the Petzl Tibloc was designed for emergency use, and must be manually positioned prior to loading to ensure proper function. As this manual positioning is not possible in simul-climbing, such usage is not recommended by Petzl. Climbers who opt to use this technique must accept the increased possibility - and consequences - of system failure, as well as rope damage due to incomplete engagement of the Tibloc. For official technical information on the Tibloc, see www.petzlamerica.com/tibloc/" In short - his stated objection to using in simul is what your friend was objecting too. Carl [ 03-13-2002: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by Zenolith: compare: Edelweiss Laser9.6X60m dry for $190falls=6 kN=8.2 Lanex Viper9.7X60m dry for $90falls+6 daN+750 [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: Zenolith ] Msr. Zenolith -BD Hotline 70m Dry -$110 (1-801-278-5533) ends Mar. 23rd. As for Lanex ropes, I've been wondering myself, you can check out their webpage http://www.lanex.cz/They seem like a decent company, but I've never seen one up close.Carl

quote: Originally posted by b-rock:Carl - From what I've heard, even in very wet avalanche debris, there's plenty of air content. The concern about being able to move your lungs in and out seems valid. But the whole idea of the avalung is simply to move the CO2 that is exhaled away from the intake area. Besides trauma, most complete buriel victems die from asphycsiation (sp).[/QB] I've been lead to believe, if my Avy seminar memory is correct, that their is enough air content to breather. And AlpineK - if you check out the Avalung.com site, and read German(I dont') they may have some good info.

quote: Originally posted by JRCO: Has any on this board actually used an Avalung? Did it make you feel more secure? How was it with a pack on? From what I have seen you can get those things dirt cheap. Must not have sold to well. Never used it on a skislope - tried it on, not too bad with a pack. Didn't want to spend 100 bones. This was the Avalung 2 however, which is a bandolier style replacement for the Avalung 1, which was the big Vest that's selling for like 1/2 off everywhere now. Carl

quote: Originally posted by erik: I WOULD TEND TO THINK THAT THE AVALUNG WOULD WORK ONLY IN A LIGHTER SNOW PACK.... WHERES AS THE YOU GET BURIED IN CASCADE CONCRETE THE AIR POCKETS WOULD SEEM SMALLER AS THE SNOW IS GENERALLY HEAVIER AND WOULD COMPACT MORE.... I DUNNO THOUGH WHAT DOES EVERYONE ELSE THINK.... According to the Avalung's website, your right, but for a different reason - namely "In very dense snow and/or deep burial or high compression forces, it is possible that a buried victim will have so much weight on him tha he will not be able to move his chest to creat any respiratory movement. The statistical average burial depth is about 1 meter. The Avalung has been succesfully tested to this depth in simulations." Going back to the debris density question - they did due tests with differing snow densities - but I'm not sure what their numbers refer to. According to the Avlanche Handbook Dry avalanches are about 300-400kg/m3 while wet avalanches are about 500-600kg/m3 - a 50% increase but I'm not sure how this would effect the Avalung. Carl

quote: Originally posted by slothrop: BD's 44 liter Ice Pack is on sale for 90 bucks through mail order only (not the website). Call them at 801.278.5533. Be cool when you call them - they can be a bit of a pain if you don't have the sale flier in front of you. They also have the Stone Packs(33L & 40L) on sale, and the Shrikes ~100$ for the stright shafts.Carl

sure, you could. just drink a fifth of bourbon and eat a bunch of GU and anything's possible. [/QB] True - true - but the last time I drank a 1/5th of bourbon, anything ended me up in the hospital For a cool site www.rebuffat.com Of course how a dead guy can have a personal site is beyond me Carl