Smoker

It takes a bit more than 22yrs and keen sight to determine if folks have passed. You'll need more proof than a donkey's dick. Your the ass AO. Smoker

Thats how we all learn "Georgia boy". Nice job pickin' a savy partner. Better luck next time. Bong at 10,000'? That bright light is all in your "head" Smoker

Nice TR Michael. A bit on the crude side but very entertaining. Nice to know I'm not the only one to pack a "load" to the summit. Smoker

Yeah, I have had a few shoes done by John Ramuta. Shot rands and all. He rocks. Great job every time. Seems like it ran 35 bones last time. Well spent bread. Smoker

Nice work, gapers. Ya stole one away from the weather! Smoker

Oh man, its 3:30am, time to go to work and page 37 is completely mine! No one else is around and the page is MINE!MINE....opps! My mistakeGuess I was wrong. [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: Smoker ]

r&i-No matter how much Rainier is talked down in size here, it is still a big mtn. I would suggest that you do a standard route first before taking on a lesser traveled route. Knowing the standard lines provides additional margin of safety if the weather closes in or other problems develop. I suppose that, personally, if I were going with 3 others that had not been above 10,000' I would choose a route that gave everyone the best chance of summiting. It might be a shorter distance traveled to Hazard, but, in early season you'll probably break trail the entire way (Not that big of a deal with 4 climbers) A good way to avoid the crowds is to go mid week or non holiday weekends. If you climb to Ingraham Flats (11,000'+) to camp you'll have more privacy than at camp Muir and you can pick between the DC or Ingraham Direct. I would also recommend taking a rest day and enjoy the mountain ambiance at elevation. Have fun and write a tr for the rest of us to enjoy! Smoker

Uhhh, but I believe thats low on the route.

I understand that the opening moves require a hard pin placement.

I've got 2 screws listed and they're gonna go cheap! Check them out Screws]screws[/url] See ya in the backcountry Smoker

Hoo-Ray for Scott and his Parents After 3 long years we got good news in Feb. about our daughters cancer! Its nice to get good news specially when you go multiple years with nutin' but bad. Congratulations Scott (and Mom) S

quote: Originally posted by snowman: I've been climbing 5th class rock for 3 yrs. I have not came upon a situation where I've had to use a bowline knot. Just wondering if there is times when the bowline is used as the preferred knot? Also, has anyone had a clove hitch fail in a anchor system? The bowline has been changed out for the rewoven eight in standard climbing circles these daze. The knot strength of a bowline is less than a rewoven eight. I've not "needed" a bowline rock climbing either. So your not alone. That being said I use a modified bowline cragging. Same knot that Jon mentioned. It is an easily untied knot after loading. It is not so much how heavy you are that cinches up a knot, but how badly you load/fall upon it. Sounds like Jon and I might have the same problem-Falling! Before climbing on any knot or system it is paramount that you understand the pro/cons and make an informed descision. Your partners might not like the modified bowline simply because they are not familiar with the knot and can not double check it. Often times thats reason enough to use a rewoven 8. When I am multi-pitch'en it I tie in with the rewoven 8. Since there is no reason to untie, the knots stronger and the knot tends to require less attention than a bowline. When/if you ever do any climbing on a shortened rope the bowline comes in handy. It is the knot of choice when I climb on a shortened rope. Always clip the tail of a bowline on a bight off to prevent it from failing. Never heard of a clove hitch failing. Climb smartSmoker

Slabbage....I love it! Small edges or pure friction its all good! Falling is never a good idea on slabbage. I have never considered running down/backwards forwards headfirst, tail first etc an option. Peshastin is a wonderful place to practice not falling. The price of falling on soft shit stone is very apparent when you start examining "crux" areas. Dru mentioned Potholes Direct, last summer the start into the lie-back was protected by 6 empty stud holes! Boring climbing, if you think that the 7th stud will hold your ass. Thrilling, if you know better. Took a 40+ footer a few years ago at Static point. I proudly rode shoe rubber the entire length with one hand on the rock for balence. I had some weeping finger tips for a week, nothing worse (minus some shoe rubber as well). The harder the lead/grade, (and in friction that translates into steeper slabs) the less your gonna grate and tumble, i.e.- a cleaner fall! Friction climbing and runout go hand in hand. A good line will be runout below the grade with acceptable pro at or near the the grade. Sooo, I say learn how to climb with out falling in the lower grades, it will help with the headgame. Keep your hands at head height or lower, balence up using down pressure or "palming" the slab,id the foot placement set and go. Don't hang out fretting the moves. Set your feet and move on. I amazed myself, when I pushed my way up "Nubbin Grubbin" last year. No wounds despite many falls. The steeper the route, the better the falls! Smoker

If your gonna climb on a single line, fine and if your gonna climb on doubles fine But if your gonna climb on a single and a double and use them as a double rope system your taking unneeded risk. better to climb on the single and trail the double. using it to rap. Smoker

Its been asked here already-What Does Great mean? This site has transformed its self a few times already. It will continue to evolve. Our community of climbers is much tighter and closer than outward appearances. The single constant when I bump into the rest of you out on the rock/ice is that we are all out to have fun. This site can heat up, just like being on a crowded route. Tempers do flare. At times the "contributions" found here are slanderous, lacking compassion or down right mean. But there is always about an equal amount of thoughtful, respectful communication that takes place as well. Some of us would wish for more of the former, some, more of the latter. It is easy to face the screen and send off the first potty-mouthed response that comes to mind. Lots more difficult to do in person. Some of us have said things electronically that we would not be able to say in person. I know a guy that is sponsored, published etc. He started getting all kinds of grief each time he posted (on a different site) by a single individual. Slander, filth and threats brought an end to his contributions. The greatest climber I know is the one that’s tied in with my sorry ass. Smoker

There's a pair of old poles on the "trail" into the Southern Pickets you can have. They are about halfway in. Smoker

remember, i am "a dumbshit, loser, and poseur." While I have never met you and know nothing about you at all I will keep the above in mind. Oh, and thanks for the Ice deets! I'll be sure to check them out. Smoker

Very nice Loren Dont you have work? Smoker

Climbed all day Friday at Duty Dome.Didn't see another climber all day. Someone has been busy there. Very nice lines. Smoker

Paul, for most folks, (me included), sharpening a tubular type cutter is a challenge. There is a bit of cutting geometery that must be understood to achieve any descent results. Do not file the rake side of the teeth except to be-bur. If you take any serious height out of a tooth or two file the rest to match in height. While a chainsaw file is good for the bottom of the hook, a good set of small "jeweler" files or a selection of machinist files is very usefull. Or you could take your dinged screws to a saw sharpening shop. Probably set you back$10-12 a screw. Smoker

Nice TR Dan. sounds like a fun route. I find that I have to throttle back at times depending on partners as well. Smoker

We were the party next to you on Total Soul yesterday. You guys had it on cruise! You made the line look so easy that I'll be on it the next time I'm up that way. Has Total Soul been retro bolted as well? Does anyone know if the superfly protects well? Smoker

Yup! got to agree with ya Blister. I did Silent Running yesterday. The 7th pitch is excelent Great pitches with nice new retro bolts and hangers. Thanks MattP. I thought the 6th pitch was kinda sporty with old bolts. Love those Fix chain anchors! Smoker

First of all, many folks wear their crampons for the wrong conditions and reasons. Simply because your traveling on snow is no reason to wear pons and reflects poor style and judgement. Crampons are designed for hardpack or frozen snow, or ice. There are times when soft conditions co-exist with firm/icy conditions. Precautions for balling need to be used then. I have used my Rambos for approach when the conditions warrent but I cann't count the number of times I have witnessed folks put on crampons in soft conditions. Don't do it! Learn how to place your feet securely in snow. If your fatigued from kicking steps turn the lead over. As someone else said if your balling up there is probably something wrong. I am good in my flexi's to about 45 degs. Anything steeper and I am wishing for my rigids. Rigids traverse poorly and worse on steeper slopes. Good luck Smoker

Nice work Dan and Forrest. Way to see thru Becky! Smoker