chriss

Shouldn't be using the 8-10% number, for the rope stretch, to calculate impact force. The rope manufacturers report those numbers for the static loading test only. You can sometimes get the dynamic elongation from the fall test data. This must be less than 40% to pass the test. Typically they are in the high 30s. But even this number will depend on several other factors, should the fall be different for the test fall. And they always are. chris

I have been on the same set for 4 seasons now. I do a little touch-up on occassion but no aggressive filing. I have them set up as centered monos. Seems to work fine for me. chris

Is this right? 1.You placed some short screws in a block of ice. 2.You "felt" that some went in easier than others. 3.It "appeared" that some fractured the ice more than others. No loading. No measurements. Just observation. And from this you concluded that Grivel makes the better screw. I don't mean this to be condescending. Give the details of the "test" and let everyone draw their own conclusions. chris

Please take a few minutes to read and restate this entire argument. Statements like this make no sense. "small leveler the (coffee grinder handle) creates more torque (up and down movement)" chris

DrC Me pensez-vous pourriez-vous passer en tant que vous ? Une meilleure version regardante mais assez étroit. chris (forgive online translation)

Jens I found this pair of gloves at Walmart for $10, $11 with tax. Thought they were worth a try this winter. Sprayed them down with some waterproofing shpig. Good to go. www.wellslamont.com/styledetail.tpl?style=7750 chris

This has the front toe bale grove doesn't it? You can probably get a better selection of crampons for these over the old trango extreme. But then again the old trango extreme was all leather and could be waterproofed. Either way good boots if they fit well. chris

Fader used the claim "Best weight-resistance ratio in the world" when making those biners. That was in ~'87. They were said to weigh in at 25gr. And currently manufacturers have only got into the low 30s (gr)in weight. chris

Jens, MEC in BC says they have 2 sets them on the shelf. I called the the 800# on the website and asked. I may be looking to pick up a set of these next trip that way. Also, they said they had 6 sets at the "warehouse". $30 bucks canuk. Forgot to ask if they shipped across the border. Sorry. DMM Terminator Frontpoint Kit item #4018018 chris

http://www.alaskamountaineering.com/Product.cfm?id=694 Beal Joker 9.1mm (not on Beal site) I think this is quite an advancement in rope making. It seems they are working to get a more predictable force verus stretch performance from the material and/or design. Just barely passed the single rope test though. chris (edit to fix link)

You have 50m of rope, you fall off at the anchor and fall 50m. 50/50=1 Basically no belay at all. So any "lead" fall would have a fall factor between 1 and 2, unless you climbed down and fell. This would be stupid to do, but it allows for the lowest force on the gear. It would always use the full length of rope to absorb the fall and no "lead" protection (to suffer "pulley" and friction effects). This is why the report and a strictly analytical approach is not always best. chris

The report leads to believe that falling on the belay anchor is safer than falling on the lead protection. The lead protection suffers from the "pulley" effect and has forces exerted on it greater than produced in the fall alone. So taking a fall factor of 1 or more on to the belay anchor generates less force on the anchor. That is why I give the report no credibility. chris

His figure 12 results of M (dynamic modulus) don't make sense. They are all to high. Like ~ 40-50% to high. Check them using manufacturers test fall data. chris

Does it rack OK? Seems like the swivel clip-in point would make it a little more of a hassle to take off the rack? chris

I remember seeing an ad, I think it was Bluewater, that said they had a rope that would pass the 1 and 1/2 tests. It did not mention the twin. This is impressive in itself. Getting it to pass all 3 tests... chris

And the really odd part, is we were alone, all day. chris

I also used the Trango S on Rainier, in late August though. Did have a couple feet of new snow from the previous storms. No problems, neither cold nor wet. I did put some waterproofing on mine.I had gotten a little wet in them on Shuksan. Nikwax Fabric and Leather, put on many coats, letting dry between each. chris

Formal training?? As in "certificate, suitable for framing"? Mountaineers?? What do you recognize as training and why? chris

I think that's a great idea for the right people. I would rather have experienced, knowledgable people making judgement calls. Not just about medical issues or rescue techniques but what each other is capable of. What if you didn't break that ankle at all. What if you just got a little AMS and were going slow. Headlamp messed up and wouldn't light, you got pissed and threw it in a crevasse. What if, you just got slowed down in the dark. What if ..., what if ... We could do this all day. And at the end of that day it would still be all your call. chris

"trick sport squirter" How does this thing squirt? You can't squeeze the bottle without crushing it can you? Oh and not to scare you, but read up on aluminum in the body. I'd just worry about it getting crushed or dented in the pack or cracking if it froze. chris

I have a pair with this attachment and they seem to go on quite easily and seem solid when on. Slide the heel in first, then rock forward on the toe, strap them up, good to go. The heel attachment slides in easy and holds great. Even with the width of the back of the crampon being wider than the heel of my boot (Trango S). chris (correct typo 8/12)

I would be interested. Also sent PM. chris

I was wondering if anyone has seen any fall test data at different test weights than the standards (80&55 kg)? There has been a lot of talk about increased forces for heavier climbers (not that there is anything wrong with that), but I was hopeing for real test data. Half and single rope info would be interesting. chris

"Although the primary shock in the system is being absorbed by one strand, the second rope engages soon after and diminishes the strain on the other. For this reason the 55kg test drop load is still considered appropriate." Most of the time the these ropes are not used in a way that this will be true. Think of how close and often the protection would need to be for this to work as stated. Used correctly on a wandering route is where the advantage lies. chris

"created for climbing wall use, combines 32-bobbin super-thick sheath for top-roping abrasion resistance" Obviously intended for gym use only. 200m can be cut down to, maybe 10 20m ropes for topropes. Thick sheath for long life of gym abuse. chris