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chriss

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Everything posted by chriss

  1. I'm in. (depends on dates of course) chris
  2. If there are no other bolts in the route, replace the pins WITH PINS. Put in LAs if needed. Leave the route the way it was. chris
  3. Since no one else will answer. #7 The french guy with the wife was the oldest. Ben said "about your age" to Johnathen. I can't remember the number. chris
  4. #6?? Didn't YOU (Pope) do that?? chris
  5. George Kennedy (Ben Bowman) Question for you, What does "CII" stand for? (From the book). chris
  6. Both these were done over 20 years ago. Both were discontinued. Not versatile enough. The 2-cam unit is not stable enough in deep cracks, to narrow along axle, or cracks with uneven sides, cam faces to wide. Tricam-on-a-stick has the same issues. Both work great in the right spot. chris
  7. I think you are confusing "loading" and falling. Static load or a dynamic load on a peice of gear.. Static load being a heavey mass (gravity). Dynamic load being an instantious load of mass x velocity (falling). I don't use a daisy at all. Use the rope in the lower piece as you shift weight to the upper peice. The rope at least has some dynamic absorption should the upper peice fail. I use a fifi hook to hold in positon but a daisy could work. But only for that. chris
  8. My computer started acting up after viewing that page as well. It might be best to avoid this link. chris
  9. chriss

    Rangers Lie

    On Rainier earlier this summer. Caught up to a group of "climbing" rangers. 2 days in a row they said weather was going "bad" that night and we should go down. They talked to someone on the radio both evenings. Wrong both times. Was a nice weekend. We topped out to blue skies. I'm not sure if they are just trying to discourage "high risk" behavior or they really think they are some kind of all-knowing authority. chris
  10. You have me at a loss, I do not have a copy of the movie. And I read the book in high school, (long ago). "..we shall continue with style." chris
  11. $20 chris and the book was better
  12. ", I think that we need to both look at our impact, daily and in the future. We need to save our lands for us, not from us. I try to do my part to help educate and inform both sides, often getting alot of attitude back from fellow riders or climbers. I think that I feel compelled to tell some asshole to pick up his beer can or tell someone not to go into the ALWA(Ingalls Lake for instance) and then maybe ask a climbing party to not dig a ditch around thier tent or erect yet another rock wall, because next day/week/month/year we might not be allowed here anymore." This is from the snowmobiles thread. Do we really these routes right now? Has someone already done ALL the others? Isn't there some validity to what Stefan said? chris
  13. Why not a Via Ferrata style route? I'm sure it would climbed frequently by climbers and hikers looking for a easy summit and safe route on such a spectacular peak. Better yet, cable cars!! Yea that's it. Why even walk. Accessable to the masses. The American way. I can see it now. McDonalds!!....... chris [This message has been edited by chriss (edited 04-14-2001).]
  14. Was in Blodgett a few times ice climbing this past season. Blodgett is fine. Campground is open and unburned. There is alot of standing deadwood as a result of the fire. The fires thinned the forest out quite a bit. chris
  15. chriss

    Snake Dike?

    Easily done in a day. Take very little gear. You can get by with just draws, but everyone has their comfort limit. And take a lot of water, or be prepared to drink from streams. chris
  16. My "yes" above, is to say, your basic understanding of the YDS is right. Except it went from 1 to 6. BUT, ratings, like climbing, has changed somewhat over the years. Different styles have different scales now. The YDS is only used for 5th class climbing now. chris
  17. Yes. Needless to say, the current rating systems are very subjective. chris
  18. Returning college student, 40 yrs old, married, climbing for many years, have gear, don't know where anything is, live in Shoreline, e-mail. wabearpaw@qwest.net chris
  19. chriss

    Ouray

    Riverside Inn also has a NICE hot-tub on the side of the river (Riverside, duh). And only 2 blocks walk from main street. Quiet enough at night. Buein Tempo (sp?) (mexican resturant and bar) is close also. Good Time. chris
  20. I have seen others do something similar to this. And have done it myself. Except we were using dishwashing gloves between liners and shells. The shells were leaking and the rubber gloves keep your hands from getting wet. You don't use VBLs directly next to your skin. chris
  21. Get a small, light 3rd tool kind of hammer. Use it as a backup for waterfall climbing and with your long mountain axe on easy alpine. I have a Camp Micro. It was a little too light, so I added a CM headweight to it. Has a short straight shaft (easy to get in and out of holster) and a fixed pick. Was really cheap when I bought it, about $25. chris
  22. In climbing any route (mtn, rock, ice, whatever), we should try to have as little impact as possible. 1st ascent or whatever, permanent alterations of the enviroment (rock, vegatation, etc.) should be minimized. At what cost is this route so badly needed? With all the advancements in gear, why not save the route until it can be done "cleanly"? Yes, we may be able to climb the features, but why scar the thing in the name of safety. Top-rope, solo, lead, do whatever you feel safe doing. But try to leave no trace, or just leave it alone. chris
  23. The question is whether or not the bolt should be there. Is it right to permantly alter the rock (and route)? If we use "safety" as the decision, everyone will say yes. But is safety the reason we are climbing? Look at all sport climbing has given us; more bolts than ever, crowds, etc. Do we really need more bolted routes? chris
  24. Was in Blodgett Sat (20th). Swan Slabs is in great shape. Blodgett Falls however is on its way out. It is South facing and is getting to much sun. Daytime temps have been in the 30s and sometimes low 40s. Night time still below freezing though. Heard from a friend that the WSU alpine club might be there this weekend. Is than you? chris
  25. These are the attitudes that are causing all the problems in the backcountry. "I have more right to be here than you because I am leading (or tele or hikingor??) and you are only toproping (or snowshoing or bikingor??)" The "holier than tho" stuff has got to stop. The backcountry is not that big of a place. I'm sure this won't change anyone, only get heated responces. chris ps Ouray has a trail to the base of the routes. I have done a few leads there myself. Can get a little crowded. But has always been "1st come 1st served".
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