dberdinka

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No photos, but It went down something like.... "Oh, you know that crazy little polish dude who drives a green Jetta?" "Ah, yeah, sorta, my friend here does" "How was the bypass glacier" "It's gone but the weather shut us down" "Ok, have a nice day" Strange indeed!

Why not??

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As it's a tower (sort of) every route is both left and right of ever other route. Sharing these experiences is a good way to deal with the traumatic stress of being involved. And yes, there really is no good reason not to wear your helmet!

I'm sure the BC Liberal Party will put wildlife before $$$ Maybe we could go kil and stuff one and put it in a museum. It's the 21st century for christ-sakes add some animatronics and it's as good as the real thing!

I don't want to burst your bubble, but it really isn't. The approach from Holden Village is a massive shwack, the ice face is small, the rock is mediocre. But hey, it's a way out there wilderness experience.

Ahuummm, so getting back on topic AlpenFox!, I think doing Salish Peak would be one hell of a day. I'm curious about the best access in there. As I see it you have three options. 1) Hike up Squire Creek Road and trail until you can cross the river and schwack X-1000's of feet up to the base of the route. Uuuughh. 2) Drive up Clear Creek to the 3 o'clock parking lot. Hike 4 miles to Squire Pass then do a long traverse all the way over to and under the north face of 3-Fingers bivi-ing at a nice saddle between the two peaks. ?Better than option 1? 3) Do the standard west side approach to 3-Fingers and cross the west side of that peak (again, ?doable?) to three lakes between 3-Fingers and Salish. Definitely worth explorer-ating. Stefan can you give us a brief TR of how you got in there?

double-post

No, that would be illegal.

Striking similarity!! South Buttress of Gimli is as good an alpine-rock climb as you will find anywhere. *****

I agree. Lots of nice pics and good info, keep it up folks. The TR posting function has made it really easy to get truely USEFUL beta on a lot of peaks. Some posters who have posted sweet TRs in the past seem conspicously absent these days, ForrestM, daylward, Wayne etc. whats up!

Actually, I think that was mine, or is there more art out there? I finally tracked down the actual news release above and am amazed at the SIZE of the outfit they are opening here in my innocuous little hometown. (Maybe I can get a job as a wilderness navigator/spotter) I look forward to the first photo of climbers being buzzed by Blackhawks, I'll keep my eye's peeled this weekend!

No it's not that bad. In fact it's never seemed any worse than the coulior to me. You'll probably encounter some snow getting to the promitory. From there is is simply a matter of picking the right gully system, to climb into. My memory gets a bit hazy here. You'll have a couple choices. You want to climb up and LEFT (Left then Up might be more precise wording) into the biggest gully. Like I said you should be able to see a mess of rap slings half a pitch up. From there it is easy. I don't know how you would call this the crux unless you were way off route.

Still news to me fader...

Climbers have tradionally used routes that cross the border to get into famous peaks like Mt. Redoubt, Bear Mtn, Castle Peak and the Cathedral Group. The National Park Service has even maintained a sign-in register just past the border in Depot Creek as it's is part of the NCNP. Obviusly none of these routes are particularly convient for smuggling compared to Zero Avenue (a long road in Canadian approximately 5' north of the official borderline) or some backroad near Sumas, so I find it hard to imagine that climbers will be targeted, but............. Watch Out! 69 law enforcement officers, 1 airplane and two "sensor-equiped" helicopters (at least one is black!) are moving to Bellingham where they will vigilantly be searching for illegal imigrants, BC-bud, the always ominous WMD and eating plenty of donuts. Better find a new way to get that backpackable-nuke across the border folks. B'ham Border Protection Office

In years past you could do the whole thing in tennis shoes by bypassing the glacier all together on it's west side, then maybe a little snow up to the rock promitory below the gully. From here climb up and LEFT towards some rappel slings 100' up a gully. Then exposed 3rd class to the ridge notch.

Came across this photo on www.tomdav.com. Salish Peak, a little nugget of granite I've always wanted to visit, just never end actually doing it.

...you are smoking crack......

Sweet! Please post a TR!

I climbed FAB once (a super kind route) and thought the hanging valley Lance mentions would be a killer canyoneering descent. We could see pools and hear frogs down in it's depths. Lance any clue about descending that drainage?

Serious advice... Seems to me you proved "climb dumb and you'll generally get away with it." The Fin is the last place you would want a wet & hypothermic or injured climbing partner. With a "strong" system moving in that day and a general sense of how long you expected to be on route the first thing in your pack should have been raingear. Learn to climb smart and the lightness will follow.... Other than that that was a shitty day around these parts

What in the hell is Dragons of Eden??