dberdinka

Layton is a gangster !!! Infamous Chat Room Event

I second "The Professional" as her best work. Admit it, you old lechers, that little 12 year old made you think bad, bad thoughts.

Pan Dome Falls has been the recent scene of at least one full-length (80+') ground fall when several screws pulled out of the usually shitty ice. The climber walked away bruised and sore but otehrwise unscathed, as he landed in the bottomless snow that thankfully acumulates at the base of the falls. I'd rather suffer the drive to Banff thank you very much....

I threw together some photo topos over the weekend from some of the better climbs I did on this trip. Nice mountain porn for a rainy December day… Middle Finger Buttress Ka’aba Buttress The Deacon

The weather was ass! Thats fuckin burl!

578.1 !!!

Hey Frosty, the SP can be used as a rappel device, however it will not lock off (like a Gri-Gri) unless you jerk it tight (like a cars seatbelt) and then it still might slip loose. Better off using something else. I've carried a Gri-gri to rap and pendi with, it's extra weight and a bit of a hassle but IMHO the benefits of a Silent Partner far outweigh the cons. In a fall the rope will lock tight around the drum of the SP. You will need to use your jugs to reascend the rope. This is not a big deal as you should ALWAYS KEEP YOUR JUMARS WITH YOU when rope soloing. I feel the need to point out that the idea of rigging your SP at the belay is idiotic as the rope locks tight around the drum in a fall and a majority of the time needs to be loosened manually. You'd be left hanging there rope locked off, now do tell how you'd get out of that? To get proficent with a SP requires a lot of time, a lot of patience and a lot of practice. In the beginning it's 90% rope management and 10% climbing. With time it's still 50/50. The experience is as much about engineering as it is about climbing. Good luck. DB

Evidently Rainy Pass was pretty good on Saturday. Phtographic evidence...

Flipped through this years AAJ last night. So in between an account of super-alpinism on Nuptse and another article on bigwall freeclimbing in Greenland was a story about three local lads and their traverse of the Southern Pickets! Way to go Wayne on getting that published! It was pretty sweet to see the Cascades right there with The Himalaya and the Artic. Quite a bit of Washington-centric FAs in the regional accounts well. Made for fun reading.

SWEET JESUS!

Incredible on the snow and ice. Plenty of room for two or three people and gear Chicks dig it! ...Groceries fit nicely in the back... .... Not so good on anything but the smoothest logging roads. I had a rough time getting into 3 o'clock through some of the washouts this year. Maybe I just miss my old 4wd Toyota Truck....

Don't let the peanut gallery get you down....

The runout to the first bolt is completely out of character with the rest of the route, probably awkward 5.8? Kinda stupid but it keeps the riff-raff out...

RIP

I like this one it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy!

BUT are we still going to MARS?

....POWERFUL WORDS....

Uhhh..duhh...I don't know....maybe...just maybe..because the guy is the leader of a radical and violent group of islamic militants who have been creating chaos in the world for the last 10 years. Who's actions and our counteractions are rapidly changing the political, social, cultural balance of the world. Who's coconspirators have us bogged down in a gruesome war in Iraq. Who's speeches might give us, their sworn enemy, some understanding of their beliefs, their ambitions, their future actions. Might help us understand what the Arab world hears and is torn between. Then again maybe it's just easier to close our eyes , stick our thumbs in our ears and repeat "He Evil, he hate our Freedom"

Are you sure it's not www.dirka_dirka_el_jihad.com?

Where can you get FULL TRANSCRIPTS of bin Laden's messages?

That seems to be a differentiating characteristic between Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

The first climb I ever did in Red Rocks was Black Dagger on Thanksgiving (in far more than record time). We finished the hike out by moonlight which only added to the experience. The rest, except Chuckwalla, all have relatively short approaches by RR standards and are in the 5-7 pitch range. They are easily done in a short day. Chuckwalla has a reputation for remoteness but it took us 8 efficent hours car-2-car.

More so than most areas it seems that people crowd onto just a handful of the many excellent climbs available. So you can try and race 14 other climbers to the base of Chrymson Chrysalis or get on one of the following excellent and mostly obscure routes. 5.7 Black Dagger - Long approach to one of my favorite experiences there. 5.8's Birdland looks sweet! Get the topo at www.fivenineclimber.com. It's also South Facing. 5.9's The north side of Pine Creek has several great climbs in this grade. Community Pillar - crazy route of OWs, chimneys and tunnels. Crabby Appleton - nice thin cracks and a steep juggy crux Magic Triangle - The ultimate RR esoterica, good climbing to boot. Climbed Chuckwalla in Mud Spring Canyon a couple weeks ago. A good climb with some serious parts, neat summit and nice wild approach. Takes about 2 hr to get there. Frigid Air Buttress in Icebox Canyon is an excellent long 5.9 with lots of variety.

Watching the Republican Party try and spin the story around is almost more interesting than the facts themselves. As the story unfolds any rational person will see the real story is Peter Puget's ability to be manipulated.

HST on politics Bush and Kerry The man's a national treasure it's a shame this has to appear in a British rag.