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dberdinka

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Everything posted by dberdinka

  1. Those who don't work already have healthcare coverage through Medicaid. The 40+ million who don't include a great number of individuals who do work but don't get healthcare benefits through their employer and can't afford them out of pocket.
  2. Ouch! But the point being that you never went from the road to the blue glacier camp in a day. You always had to rest your dandy little legs before the going got tough....
  3. If I were to do it again I would hike the trail and camp by Agnes Creek on Day 1. Day 2 I would haul up to the nice campsites by the Blue Glacier. Would make for two relatively short days but then you would be fully rested on Day 3. Matt and I (sandbagged by Blakes somewhat disingenuous desciption of the effort involved) tried to do it all in one day. We almost made it all the way (hiked until 10 pm) and probably would have if we hadn't been slowed by the 300+ logs we had to crawl under and over. However we were wasted enough on Day 2 that we accomplished very little. Blake has a very detailed description of where to leave the PCT that I have not seen around here. Hassle him.
  4. Is one of the most beautiful places you will ever visit.
  5. Best. Episode. Ever.
  6. Appropriate use of Caps can help clarify your alpine rockclimb alpine: you frolicked gayly in a meadow wearing "approach shoes", the rock was solid and clean, snow was noted on a moutnain far in the distance. i.e. Liberty Bell, Salish, Ingalls Alpine: The snow is now between you and you're intended route. The pack is heavy, your legs are tired. i.e. Stuart N Ridge, Forbidden, NE Butt Slesse, Gunsight, EMS ALPINE: It's cold in these shadows. There are now two heavy packs full of icegear. Rock and ice fall is frequent. The rock is loose, runout or both. Your fragile mortality is contemplated. i.e. Nooksack, N Face of Inspiration
  7. Dino is a REAL-ESTATE AGENT. Say no more.
  8. Right up there with "Alpine Assault!"
  9. Detailed 1st-person Account Some other dude who doesn't know what he's talking about "The Sherpas and the high-altitude porters can't be expected to play the role of fixing the ropes and camps on higher ground on K2." "When the weather cleared, the expedition leaders sent porters ahead to fix ropes at the Bottleneck." "Van Rooijen was dismayed to find, when he arrived at the Bottleneck, that the ropes had been incorrectly placed." AND "It was also becoming clear that not everyone was as skilled at mountaineering as they had made out. Confortola said: “At the beginning, everyone seemed to be experts, but they couldn’t do or didn’t do what they are supposed to.”" "There were too many who weren’t capable in the summit party." "As he lay in his hospital bed last week, van Rooijen, 40, said the lesson he had learnt from the climb is that on K2 you can rely only on small groups of trusted friends."
  10. Don't be so hard on yourself Pavilion Edge The only good TR from last winter Beautiful Ice
  11. Hey Tim. The following TRs should answer your questions. Nice loop trip from CA to Grimface then over to Cathedral. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=714785 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=479047
  12. Medium size rack of nuts and cams to a #3 Camalot would probably work just fine. The following two climbs were both good and had 5 minute approaches from the lake. Good night.
  13. Well Mr Conway your panties are certainly in a wad! From what I've read one gets the sense that K2 has been turned into a circus ala Mt Everest style. A lot of those ballsy and skilled climbers died on fully self-supported expeditions or doing small alpine style climbs. This waiting around and getting all bent that the other guys didn't fix ropes to your liking or blaming your gear (WTF?) is ridiculous. While I don't doubt these were all good folks, I'm of the impression they were all not the Rob Slater and Allison Hargreaves of the climbing world.
  14. It's pretty fucking simple. If you're reliant on porters carrying and fixing ropes for the final summit push on K2 you're probably in over your head. Hubris has a way of catching up with all of us.
  15. 3 pics and a single paragraph? Thats all I get! I'm left feeling deprived. Great work, looks like an amazing route. I need to get some of that. D
  16. Friends from CO climbed Roan Wall ~ a week and a half ago. Road, approach and climb are in good shape. Bivi Boulder was buried under 30' of snow still. They had many sightings of reticent humanoid type beings equiped with hand drills and SS gear.
  17. That is friggin INCREDIBLE!
  18. Noyce. Did you climb it or just read this > ? Climbed other stuff up there in June. Lots o rock. The Complete Black Pyramid
  19. Black Pyramid - NW Face Beeatches!
  20. Is your partner the Reinhard Fabish of North Face - Robie Reid fame? While the direct start is heavily threatened by serac fall from both sides of the buttress, the approach to the North Rib crosses an apparently much more stable "glacier" and has very little if any exposure to crevasse fall. For a lot of reasons it's the better climb IMHO.
  21. Take it all with a grain of salt as I've never been there, but it looks like 10km from the main Harrison Lake Road to a junction with the old Chehalis route about halfway between Statlu Lake and Nursery Pass turnoffs, with minimal elevation change (~140m net in and 40m net out). Sounds pretty doable.
  22. Well nearby at least....evidence is accumulating that there is an actual, breeding pack in the Methow Valley. First time since the 1930's. Very cool stuff. Wolves captured in Okanogan County
  23. Amazing photos as always, but whats up with the tiny sizing? Need more pixels!
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