layton

Anyone want to climb something tue,wed,or thurs? Lookin' at Joffre Central Coulior possibly tue night/wed, or Tuning fork on Bardeen for a 2 day event. Both are in B.C. I'd like a partner who can lead 5.9-10a, or WI4 so we can travel relatively quickly over a lot of ground. Email me ASAP if you can go, even if we've already talked since it's hard remembering your log-in name if I don't know you. They all start to sound the same.

Great route. 2 brand new bolts in chimney, 2X4, and fixed gear galore. Did direct start from middle left side of base. Shaved off a pitch that way. When you get to the start of the corner (pitch 2,3,or 4?) stay in the corner instead of going left like nelson's guide shows. Awesome jamming. Bring some big cams. We rapped off -need 2 ropes. Easy, but our ropes got really stuck. Had to climb up on the one we pulled to fix it. Did it w/Fixed Pin(Richard) -awesome guy. We were gonna do Minuteman E.Face too, but there was a cattle train going up. Anyone done this route? How is it? Looks...uh...shitty, but I haven't done it so I can't really say and I'd like to do it anyway. Can never tell w/Burdo routes, eh? Good job Mike and partner on Liberty Crack, and Forrest and partner on Independance (voices carry). I hope you don't have to bivy tonight.

You've just described my entire climbing career. 1.drive and get lost 2.go back hike in to base and something goes wrong 3a.go back and climb or 3b.burn that page outta the beckey guide

check yo' PMS..., er I mean your PM's. [ 08-01-2002, 12:56 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Things have not been going well for me climbing recently. Failures, broken partners, and partners that bailed. I know the weather doesn't look great, but I had a trip to the bugs planned from now till Aug 10th and now I got nothin'. So, between now and infinity, I need a partner who wants to climb some long rock routes. Give me a private message if you can climb and when, not if you can't climb and why. Weather depending, obviously.

Thank you for the beta. Email me if you wanna climb some long routes sometime (up there, anderson river, wherever...). I don't hate you for going to the bugs afterwards, but I will be crying myself to sleep tonight. Anyone wanna go up there with me, sniff.

Add that to the list of climbs I've drug my shit to the base of (the coulior in nelsons 2nd guide). I know someone who maybe did the 2nd asent (or not) last summmer in the middle of august. Looks not-to-hard. If you go, approach via sibley creek. Its just nicer and more scenic, although both climbs are long slogs to get there for VERY short climbing. Thanks for reminding me about that one, may have to check it out again.

[ 08-01-2002, 01:02 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Thats crazy! I was going to climb that route on sunday also. Went up the wrong road Sat Morning, and by the time we found it (the right road) it was 1:30pm. We were going to go back on Sunday to climb monday, but the weather looked like it was gonna crap out. Almost had to B'hammers on an obscure route on the same day. How long did the approach, climb, and descent take? Any othe info, like how did the approach/descent from Clark look? Need crampons or ax? What was the feasablility of mtn biking up there? Good job on Direktissima! p.s. to add to my wrechedness, I bailed off ashlu again today. Partner had a cracked rib from before that didn't heal (screaming). My two partners for the bugaboos just bailed on me for separate reasons. Why, God, Why? I've been good. I will be soon making a pact with the devil. [ 07-31-2002, 07:16 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

[ 07-31-2002, 07:17 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

quote: And it's true, the public isn't allowed to take on their own trail (or other resource management) projects in National Parks Darnitall! There go my plans for making a trail up Marble Creek!

Oh, well that's different. Sorry I though you meant like the 1st pitch! Cool! I wasn't paying any attention to the right side on the approach, and I couldn't see anything on that side once up on the climb. One thing I did notice was that the further right one climbs on the ridge, the worse the rock got. Probably one of those unrecorded ascents. AAJ doesn't bother with such routes anymore it seems. Let's ask Mr. Beckey, he'll know. HEY FRED! Anyone done the right side of the buttress direct? P.S. update your topo.

That was pretty funny. Overly happy people usually aren't very funny, and to be honest, make me a little nervous. I still need a partner ...which is cool because I get to meet a new friend and we can learn things from each other.

[ 07-25-2002, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

[ 07-25-2002, 11:49 AM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

[ 07-25-2002, 11:46 AM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Thanks. Just need someone with some emotional problems to go and do it with me.

Different than what? I'm sure each party that's tried the lower ridge has done an FA on their 1st pitch Depends on the snow level and moat depth. Unless your talking the very right side of the buttress? Dunno. Once a few pitches up, it's anybody's guess as to what friggin variation your doing???

I crossed the border south of Nelson B.C. on 9/11, just returning from the Valhallas!! Some old dude asked me what was in the truck and he waved us through. As for depot creek, I PM'd you, but no problems.

Still need a partner. I'm sure Ryland's a great guy and great climber, but he didn't have enought time. Commmmon'! p.s. I'm very very hesitant to climb w/someone I don't know. Have had partners lie and wanted to kill them. But I must go climbing. I may solo. How's Joffre's NE side lookin?

Couple friends of mine just did it bellingham to bellingham. Left the ham at 2am, drinkin' at Casa by 9pm, same day. WOW!

Need partner for this weekend. Fri, Sat, Sun, and/or Monday (but 3 days max) for some long alpine rock climbs in the III-V 5.9-10b range. I have some specific climbs I wanna do in the N.Cascades or Canada. Gimme an email or ring. 360-756-6927. I have a lightwieght alpine gun that I will use if you're a dick or lie about your abilities or want to turn around. I can drive (I think) but if you live in seattle or far from B'ham, I'm not driving to pick up and drop off. That said, anyone still game?

One of you two guys has got to work for REI, or the Base Camp? Am I right?

Send me an email. I may be into Yak Check. The other ones are really fun. [ 07-24-2002, 12:17 AM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Don, I'd like to do a N.Face route on Vienesse and then the N. Ridge of clark. You seem to be the local to ask. is this a good plan? DAY # 1. drive and hike in to below vienesse and bivy 2. climb vienesse, descend to nursery pass, back to bivy below route and then move bivy back to clark 3. climb n.ridge of clark w/a carry over (yikes!) back to nursery pass and car and drive home and puke. Seems like a cary over on clarke is less trouble than going all the way around the backside(S.side) of the whole range, down to the pass, back to the bivy, and then back out again to nursery pass!!!! Or is there a desent of clark that gets you back to a bivy spot. McLane doesn't mention a good one in his SW BC guide. Also, are there sections I need an ax and or crampons for? Could I get away with a sharp rock and insteps (which I hate doing...lost a few years off my life being so friggin' scared). Thanks Don!!! (or whoever else gives beta) p.s. I need a partner this weekend (fri-mon)