layton

Sorry for a topic about you, but your mailbox is full, so this should get your attention. Email me regarding the yard sale instead of PM'ing me so we can talk shop. -Mike

Yeah, it's a fun way to top out on the cheif. If you haven't topped out on the chief, do Angel's Crest. I'd say the Ultimate Everything is just as good as the Squamish Butt, except there is no one "stellar" pitch. I'd down-grade every pitch by a number, however so the folks from Wyoming,Canmore,and Cali don't think we're pussies. Some bolts could be chopped to make it more sporting. I'll 2nd Necro's thanks to the F.A. party. That wasn't an easy line to spot, and our waltz came from a LOT of hard work for which I am very very grateful. You guys are awesome and thanks for the new route present. If you are a 5.8 climber, you can do this route and have fun on it w/o being scared or run-out, I promise! For the hardmen...lots of new variations abound! For example, there is a really hard lookin crack just left of the one on pitch 5. Bring the big guys. Time-wise, it took us and a party from Canmore 3 hours. It can be done much faster, and of course, much slower. We're average climbers, so don't get up toooo early (like we did). Also, we didn't bring 2 ropes, and I think if it rained, we would be FINE finishing the route, even if it was wet and slimy concidering the pro, and short-lived cruxes. Of course, I'm not responsible if you do get fucked following this bit of info. [ 09-08-2002, 04:18 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Oh, an alpine partner gun and a rope gun are not the same thing. An alpine partner gun is to force your partner into doing what you want, especially if he/she is being a total pussy. Can also be used on yourself in case of unpleasant bivy, hike out, descent, etc... Very very useful. Although not as useful as a ropegun. Does black diamond sell those?

You got to live up to your reputation dicklicker. 4.5 hours. I'm bringing my alpine partner gun to make sure.

If you don't have any assets to be sued over, can you go to jail?

It seems I was misquoted regarding being paid to climb. I completely understand that this is not the case. Keep it coming, this is very very interesting and informative.

It seems I was misquoted regarding being paid to climb. I completely understand that this is not the case. Keep it coming, this is very very interesting and informative.

I agree with you Erik. I'm not looking to be paid to go climbing. I've guided with the outdoor center at Western, and I've made it my TOP priority to be SAFE and help the customer have FUN. I'm out there because they are paying to either learn a new skill, or have a fantastic experience. I bet there are folks out there that want to go hiking or backpacking and don't know where to go, or climbing and don't want to pay big bucks. I can't afford to insure or set up my own business. It would be 'financial gifts.' Any warnings on this, would I setting myself up for disaster? If not, how should I go about advertising w/o drawing attention to the fact that I'm 1.)not guide certified 2.)uninsured 3.)not a "real" business. I was thinkin' a flyer at school, a post on the newbies forum. I don't know how to set up a web page, and I'm not sure if that's such a good idea. I was thinking of business cards or flyers at other places, but where and who would let me is another thing. Basically I've never done this, and not sure I am. As I said, I'm neverous about marketing myself and not sure how to go about it. Please respond if you have any thoughts on this, things that could go wrong, things that could go right... Thanks, Mike Layton

I'm just doing this to get some work for the next year and summer. I don't plan on getting any guide certifications. I am WFR certified.

How do you get to Cerise creek from the oz gulley?

Anyone ever done this? I was thinkin' of being an indept guide for folks who wanna climb, or go hiking. There's the big competition (AAI,AAI,Mtn Maddness, etc...) but I don't know of anyone who has their own (except for big names like Steve House, Barry Blanchard, etc...). I was thinkin'. I'm sure I'll be sued,railroaded,and blackliste by the big wigs. What should I do to start? Obviously have ideas, just searchin' for feedback. Plus do you think it'll work?

Nice Job!!! I think I should post some beta regarding getting off the mountain: I've decended your route, which as I'm sure you'll agree having climbed it, would be a horrific descent. 2 ropes aren't long enough to reach the schrund, or the upper steep sections. If you descent this route, we've left some anchors at the col on top (slung blocks), a rock outcropping 55 meters down and to skiier's right(fixed pin), and 45 meters down and skiiers left(slung rocks). That's 2 double and one single rap to get across the schrund and off the steep snow. Once past the schrund, descend down and right to another rocky ridge/outcropping and either follow the moat, or just left crossing another crevasse (scarry step across). Once across its a 1500' glissade down (or tedious downclimb). The whole desent took a long time, but we were searching for anchors on a pretty blank snowslope, and rapping with 4 people. A party of 2 with knowledge of the descent could do it in 3 hours, but we took 6 so who knows? From the top to the col there are fixed raps, Stay on top of the Ridge (except for the 2nd rap)! You must climb a very short and easy wall at the tricky notch. Good rock, very short, and easy, but looks intimidating. I'd take another way down, but if your heading up like your party did, then this route looks great (especially if the couliors aren't lookin' too good). I was up there last october after a very low snow year, and the central coulior still looked plenty "in".

I tried Damnit! Forecast called for mostly sunny this saturday. Necronomicon and I got to practice our fog finding skills ala Marko Polo. Excellent 4wd-hc. We got pretty far on the road. Mtn bikes would not save 1.5 hours on the descent, since it took 45 minutes to drive back to the lake (unless bikes can go back in time). The approach took about 4.5 hours from the car, and 2.5 back. We can speed up our in time by bringing some crappy throw away shoes and just hiking in the river from the end of the road, up to the snowslope, which we did on the return. Fucking cold! Saves a really nasty bushwack. Plus there is a ton of bear poop all over, and you could surprise one really easy in the tall "grass". Wish we climbed up there. I will be back many many many times. Direktissima seems like a totally awesome route. Yeah, the NFD route looks sweet too, and harder, but 1000' of 5.7/5.6 crack on an amazing looking slab makes Diretissima seem like the one to do first! Shit, do em both...Clark too. Hope a 4-5 day weather window opens up really really soon! A couple guys went in to do Tuning Fork on Bardean the same day as us. I would be totally amazed if they got up it, do to the serious lack of visibility from fri night till now. Their truck was still there, so they must've done the approach. Blech! Oh, by the way...this area totally blows. Stay home. [ 09-02-2002, 03:40 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Jason, what's Abiel Peak all about? Don't forget about the N.Face of Pyramid peak, and Guyute (sp?) peak. I saw a nice flow on dragontail where the north face route goes (in a series of grooves/gullies left of backbone, right of tripple c's). Is that the NW face route? I don't think it is, but it looks cool. I may have a photo, I'll let you know if I do. Also there are a couple lines Nelson did on the NW face of Stuart I think. Lots more too, I just don't have my info on me. Oh yeah, spindrift couliour on Big 4. Kearney's guide barely mentions it, although he does mention that it's pick your line once you get there. Anyone ever been to horseshoe basin in winter?

Bring it on! Eve Dearborn doesn't come in enough to be on the list. It should be a tie-breaker, or a bonus climb (extra 6 pack). Necro, if you win, who gives you the beer and t-shirt? Sign me up, I've got the approaches dialed on all three.

quote: layton, you must a genius. anything you don't know? Isn't that the pot calling the kettle black? Your a mean Mr. Meanie! Yes, I am a genius according to people much stupider than me.

You cannot teach in Washington w/o a teaching certificate. I would already be in school by the time I got my cert, but good info for others. Lots more jobs for medical assistants too. quote: Yo: hack. You're your own boss, and the pay is good. You come and go as you please. Don't wanna work tomorrow? Hah! Screw 'em. Go climbing instead. Don't know what it's like in B'ham, but in Seattle it was good. Coupla bills a day, albeit long days, and you meet interesting people. Just watch out for road-rage. And armed crack-heads! What job are you talking about, or are you calling me a hack and I should be my own boss at anything? Couldn't decipher this one. Some good ideas for climbers here if they have a time to invest. I do not, so unless I get the "miracle" connection/offer, It looks like temp jobs, or getting hired for a chain, and quitting when I want time off. Once again, it is very hard to get a job w/a gear store in B'ham. X-mass time is another story, however. But guess what's fun to do in the mountains around x-mass time that occurs in places w/ no jobs ever? Yup, ice-climbing. Ski area jobs seem pretty good. It's too late for Antartica jobs, but those are good ones too.

My problem is that I am taking a year off before going to chiropracor school (4 year school). A chiropractor should be a great climbing job, but it's really hard to start something that needs any time put in to advance (like anything), and all the temps jobs are unreliable. I live in Bellingham, and don't want to move until next year. The other problem is Bellingham does not have any open jobs, such as any outdoor type store. I think I'm going to do temp, and when that falls through, it's road trip time. Maybe do some temp down where I'll be climbing. Express Personnel has many offices worldwide, so maybe I could hook up w/them in other towns too. So far their jobs really blow, and since I'm a new college grad, and male, I won't get any of the good office or construction jobs, just light industrail(assembly line). What I really would like, even if it's hard work, is something with a little autonomy to it, you know, not so many bosses, or a little flexiblity in the tasks... Thanks

If I did wear a pack, I would agree w/Doug Hutchinson (not that I own that pack and love it). You need duct tape to make your hammer holster small diameter, and the compression straps are confusing w/the shovel flap (keep the flap for your crampons). Fucking awesome perfect pack. Not boxy, like the ice sack. Carries well, no frame either, but the back is padded and a has a foam bivy pad, and water bladder pouch. Non-bulky waist belt. I think Twight designed it, not sure. Kicks ass....I hear. One of the cheapest packs around. The single best feature of the pack is that it Climbs Well! The ice sack, and others don't hug your body as well. [ 08-23-2002, 06:49 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Any job ideas for me? Need most weekends off, some weeks off, 20-40 hours a week? My ideas haven't worked out, the only one that may work is a Temp Agency: pro: make own schedule con: shitty job,inconsistant job openings I had more ideas but no such jobs exist for someone w/only two degrees. Jobs that suck: Haggen,cereal box gluing,fish processing,any job that requires excessive smiling.

I don't ever use a backpack, too heavy! Just clip everything to your harness. Keeps the bears away too! Keep little items in your pockets. Drink all your water and eat all your food at the car, keeping some in your cheeks and under your tongue, possible clipping a nalgene to your harness. Wear your sleeping bag as a belay jacket. The chest-style big wall rack can help distribute the weight. Check out the new Black Diamond "Still Suits," coming fall 2002!!! I've got a demo, and choose to wear mine, "desert fashion." Take lots of Vicodan, or Codine to fold space once on the summit.

Please go do N.Face Central rib of truimph and post a TR.

Anyone done the 19p climb on Davis, or any of the other routes? This is something I always look at while driving hwy 20, and guidebook flippin'.

Did Yak Check w/Necro yesterday. Awesome route! Dru provided some fantastic beta on Bivouc.com which was a great resource for some ways of speeding up the route. I agree w/everything Dru posted on his "opinionated description" execept for: 1. The approach can take a little longer than 20min if you've never been there before, and is legnthened by parking at the outhouses. It is a miserable walk down the hwy, smelling of emptied cans of urine, and drainage from the restroom w/semis roaring past. There is room to park right where the On Ramp splits from the highway (those coming from hope should drive up the shoulder, i think the next exit to turn around is miles further) 2.Dru mentions soloing to the base of the tower (after the traverse). We didn't do this. We simuled below the traverse, did a 5.6/5.7 pitch up the lower corner, then traversed to below the route past one anchor (rope drag). 3.From the slung block in the chimney lower down, it is one pitch to the top of what Dru calls pitch 5. This combines Dru's pitch 3+4. Dru says from the top of lunch ledge it is 10 feet higher to bolts and that this pitch is 50m, when in fact this pitch (p3.) is only 30-40m and then next is much shorter. Fine w/a 60m rope. 4.On Dru's p.6, he says move left from the belay and climb a left facing corner for 10m before stepping around the arete. You move RIGHT from the belay and don't climb the corner, stepping right around the arete about the same elevation as the belay. Much easier, good solid holds and jams. 5.The last 4th class pitch can prove catastrophic if the leader falls. You don't have to go straight up to the trees. You can go about 30m then head left into a break in the trees. No bushwacking is involved through the trees. There is another pitch of 3rd to the top from here. Thank you Dru for the helpful beta, you were right about the grades, and your ascent/desent time was close to ours. The "cave" beta was great, and although probably more technically harder, saves you from a shitty belay and a grovel. Your gear beta was good to, although most of the cracks are pretty wide. I'd be sure to bring two #2 camalots, especially for the roof traverse. I thought that traverse was much more pumpy than the one on Snake. As for when to go, it is S.Facing so the evil sun will try and kill you. A good way to do it (like we did) is to start early when the forecast calls for morning cloud clearing by afternoon. It was fun climbing in the mist, and by the time the solar devil beat down upon us, we were on top. Someone left a dog at the base w/a puny water dish (looked like a torn plastic bag). The dog was very very scared when we came by, and was barking like crazy and growling. Poor guy! We gave him the rest of our water, but it looked like his/her masters were 1/2 way up, and the sun was in it's most violent stage of torture at this time. I know dogs are animals and animals come from the woods, etc..., but they depend on you and feel neglected just like children would. I think it was cruel to leave your dog at the base of this route, but I'm sure your opionion is much different. [ 08-22-2002, 01:09 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Heard it might be good, so I got a job scoopin' salad and slicing horsecock at the deli. The approach is pretty easy. Just park in the employee lot way in the back and head for the center strip. Enter the building and go upstairs. Gear: Mormon Missionary outfit, smock, hat, nametag. This is one TR where water is not acceptable to drink while on route. There are small flows coming out of fountains inside the cafe. The actual trip consisted of bending over and smiling out of my asshole while answering to many exec's and putting up with the devil (customers) for $7/hour. Okay for the approach, not so good for the trip. My partner(s) sucked on this one, and my dignity was forced down to the level of the worm. It blows, don't go there. Highly unreccomended. I bailed early on this particular outting. 2 day minimum to 2 weeks notice. I went for fast and light(pay). BTW: they don't persicute shoplifting there very strictly, so have at it. Lots of booty on this one (but probably underage). [ 08-21-2002, 11:35 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]