layton

guess who:

i haven't read a single thing in this thread yet, but i think the tree should go b/c then it would end any further discussion.

glad you got a chuckle instead of pissed. please please, continue to chide away. i'll be making poster sized super topos for the upcoming guidebook.

hahaha! any mention if they're gonna keep that up?

so that's where all the reticent hardmen live! you guys are really fucking cool!!!!! Maybe you could have a softball tourney with the "locals" near leavenworth, cuz they're pretty f'ing cool too. anyway, i'm glad you guys have your little club and little peaks to keep secrets with. also, stuff like that wall i posted could have been climbed. maybe, maybe not. i don't know. it's always funny when someone tries to keep an area secret, but when someone mentions "unclimbed", the person trying to downplay an area all of a sudden has all the beta of the routes and first ascentionists. If there's no published info i'll just assume it's unclimbed until i see evidence that it's not. otherwise nothing new would get done. i'm not going to play by the "locals" rules. scew you guys and your little forts you've made. i'd love for some folks to get back there and put up some stuff. but if it's been done, i'd love to know about it. usually the local "secret" climbs suck anyways

reminds me of a joke. What did the lepor say to the prostitute? Keep the tip.

oh, and of course we did not see another person as usual.

i heard something about a friday night DJ? true? what time?

is the route still a III 5.9 or did it get any harder up top? about how long would you say it is? nice!

Climb: Battle Mountain-Plumbline Date of Climb: 10/9/2005 Trip Report: Not cold enough in the hillz, and rainy everywhere, Marcus and I took advantage of Portland's relatively "close" proximity to Castle Crags SP in Northern California to enjoy a sunny warm day of fall mountain hikin' so we once again endured the 6+ hour drive down I-5, stopping at our now favorite gas, rest area, and fast food spots along the way. Ahh I-5, old friend...long and windy road to destinations unknown! So we went "campin' that night (opened the door of the car, tossed out our bags and slept), and had a pleasant sleep until we woke at the lovely hour of 4:45 am. We had the castle dome trail completely wired by now, but a new and exciting side jaunt down the PCT (very pretty via headlamp) until we came to a spot where the Manzanita tree seemed to call us to join them... ...so we did. Marcus got an immediate eye wound, while i only endured scraped knees and arms. About 2.5-3 hours to the south face of Battle Mountain, which doesn't actually sit in the State Park. Battle Mtn Battle Mtn and the surrounding peaks are a bit bigger than the crags in the SP, and about 99.9% of the faces and ridges are all unclimbed. There is seriously a lifetime of FA's (of 4-9 pitch routes) to be made with those willing to endure 5 hours of intense bushwacking with most likely no water at camp, or gear en route. No wonder this area is "off the map." link to my photo of a lot of unclimbed rock (Battle Mtn on right)-things are way smaller than the appear We chose the established route Plumbline on the "well guarded" Battle Mountain, the largest peak and longest route in the park. It's apparently 9 pitches and 5.10-, and it goes up one of the most amazing features i've ever climbed: a ribbon of perfectly white, solid quartz crystals tucked in the back of a 2-6' chimney!!! Cool Crystals There is, like all routes at castle crags, some serious climbing involved (run-out, sketchy gear, suspect rock, etc...) but when my rope ran out I was seriously bummed that my pitch was over. I laughed and sang my way up, i was having that much fun. It's really F%^$%cking sweet climbing, and it's fun being creative with gear placements between quartz crystals. Lookin down from the Dike We soloed the last "3 pitches" (a few sketch moves, but mostly ok) and then did 2 raps down the west notch. The descent is in the slot chimney that soon becomes horribly horribly choked with manzenita bushes. For those of y'all unfamiliar with this plant, it's a little fucker and has little to no give to its hard little branches. Dropping down a chimney through a botany experiment was really unnerving, every so often I'd look down and there'd be a 50 foot drop right under my feet, but blocked by 4-5 layers of bush. I'd slowly punch through successive layers and grab on the lowest branch, and swing Jungle Hunt style down to the bottom of the canyon, UNDER the bushes! It then became manzanita caving. When the slope dropped off, we would lay on our backs and slide under the vegetation, like a Manzanita Luge, or the Fischer Price "Slip and Die" We descended waaay to far and wound up looking at a 200+ foot rap down a slot canyon into valleys unknown. I forgot to mention that the bushes were in FULL POLLENATION mode! It was un-be-fucking-lievable!!! Our entire bodies, hands, and faces got covered in pollen. We were mostly out of water and were sneezing, coughing, getting totally stuffed up, and having lovely allergic reations. More unclimbed rock on the descent I got a full face shot of a major pollen burst and inhaled at the same time. I began sneezing and coughing so hard I started puking (luckily my stomach was totally empty) and snot and tears and drool were pouring down my face. After the attack I apparently (don't remember) was beating my helmet against the rock and mumbling total jibberish. Unclimbed wall Driving back to portland that night so i could be at school the next morning was an exercise in suckery. In fact, that brings up a good story from our rest stop break around 1 am in south oregon. On the urinal handle was a note that said, "Sun 10-9-05; 9PM to 2 AM. I want to suck your big hard cock until you cum down my throat. If you want this walk behind the restroom and I will flash a light." No wonder there were no doors on any of the stalls at this rest stop. I came back outside and told Marcus I've give him $100 no questions asked if he'd go in the bushes flashing his headlamp. No go. So we got in the car and I turned the lights on and off a couple times. From the bushes behind the restrooms a little keychain light flashed a few times. I repeated the headlight. More flashes from the bushes. I'll leave the rest up to your imagination. Gear Notes: surgeons mask long pants and closed toe shoes Parting Shot

i am shen long

Those are all really fun climbs, what a great trip you must have had!!!

Strummy Strummerson

I'm going to go as the ZOMBIE JESUS (you know, the jesus after he "arose" from the dead...big zombie coverup). blessed are the....BRAINS!!!!!!

Man, that was a good LoveFest! That blue chair is mine. I left it there 3? years ago. Please return it to me. oh, and i think i left a sweet counting crows album in someones cd player.

any beta for Plumbline on Battle Mtn? i'm headed for it this weekend.

thanks. sounds like the sumallo cirque is the ticket. too bad it's too far for me.

i realized the winner would be the loser, so please....join olyclimbing in his quest for the bottom. booooooorrrrrrriiiing!

I've checked several weathercams including whistler, and it seems like we actually didn't get that much new snow with this prolonged storm system. I could be totally wrong b/c i haven't been out since last weekend. Anything to report? How much new snow in the past 1.5 week has stuck around, snow conditions, etc... Even if you were just out in your car driving over a pass, or flying in an airplane over seattle. I literally have no idea what conditions are like. I thought there would be more snow than i've gathered there is. post please.

click me

"Ok, that's enough"

Silly rabbit, dicks are for kids

voltage is a measure of the electromotive force

i have a sandwich for lunch tomorrow

i love you more than Jesus Jones sucked