rbw1966

Absolutely nothing. I do it all the time.

I think Trask is referring to the tryst you identified earlier.

I agree with freeclimb. I think the single most important factor in choosing a boot is fit. I used Makalus on Rainier and Coto just fine. As a matter of fact I am getting rid of them if anyone is interested. They may still have a few miles left in them. Size 10.5-11.

I've climbed on the east side and thought it was pure choss. I was just scrambling around the lower-angled portions though. Perhaps the steeper sections are more solid. Thanks for the clarification Doug.

Was youngest, now only.

Really? More solid than French's Dome? Broughton's Bluff? Smith? (OK, bad example). I hope its more solid than Mt. Chossington.

Lets see. . .Drew was leading the first rope team and I saw him place two pieces, one on the lower pitch, one on the upper pitch. I was leading the second rope team and I placed. . .lets see if I can remember correctly. . .none. The conditions really didn't warrant protection which was good because there really wasn't much opportunity to solidly protect it anywhere.

I'm headed there this weekend. Will post conditions upon return.

You say that like its a bad thing. Could be worse. Could be Trask. Speaking of that ass-whore, whats his issue with us Portland folk? Is he jealous of our civility and general good-naturedness?

Mellow climbing with a great bunch of guys. I look forward to doing it again. Highlight of the day was staring at Jessica's ass for over an hour. Who coulda thunk that even gore-tex can't hide that splendor. Portland pub club on the sandy headwall?

Good job crackman! Great pics too. Its been years since I did that route, maybe I'll go check it out again. Nice redpoint!

Hey Doug--I am a little confused. How can the rock pro be good if the rock itself is crappy? Front-pointing rock sounds like fun though! Good job.

Sketch--you obviously have not been there on a weekend in may or june. I counted 100 people one time last year on the southside--and that was as I was descending. I stopped counting at 100 because I don't know my numbers beyond that.

Its rbw. It is a climbing board. God firbid we steeer the conversation back to climbing. When they were first introduced a lot of climbers were skeptical of their safety--especially the old school aid and trad climbers. In fact, though, wire gate biners tend to be stronger then their more solid appearing brethren. Lighter and less gate flutter too. Sounds painful.

By the way, the news reports I watched said the group of five had a cell phone and called down to let everyone know they were ok and didn't need a rescue. If this is true, why did they mobilize SAR?

Pete-- I don't think those groups we passed en-route were the same climbers who spent the night. First, the group who spent the night on the mountain had parked next to us and I spoke briefly with the bearded gent (I recognized him from the news). Second, the climbers who spent the night had climbed Leutholds and the groups we passed continued up the south side. I'm guessing the conditions on Leutholds must have been pretty bad or they were moving very slowly. Either way, glad they made it back ok.

Story I saw on the news said that several different agencies were involved in the rescue. The climbers dug a cave 100 ft from the summit. Interestingly, the 5 guys who climbed Leutholds had parked next to us at about 4 a.m. Saturday morning and were gearing up as we left the parking lot for the east crater rim. I was making small talk briefly with the bigger, bearded guy and he said they were headed to Leutholds. I overheard one of his partners mention the transciever and I kind of chuckled to myself. Good thing they had it with them, although they seemed competent and well-prepared. Conditions on Leutholds must have been quite a bit different then they were for us because we were back to the car by 11:30 a.m. Glad everyone is safe and sound. Good job Iain.

uh? like wire-gate biners? They freak out trad climbers?

How did it go? I did the North Face of Chair in pretty miserable weather conditions a couple years ago. Spindrift filling the neck of my jacket; very slow-moving gfroup in front of us and two parties behind us who both bailed due to weather. After driving 4 hours though I was pretty determined. We ended up doing the east crater rim on Hood yesterday.

Actually that WAS my plan but after listening to all the talk about it I figure I'd try something that may not look like a Fugazi concert. It is a fun climb though.

Got plans now. Thanks

Partner flaked and I am jonesin' to get out. Anyone wanna do some BC skiing and/or climbing around Hood, Bachelor or wherever? PM me ASAP.

how long did the approach take?

D'oh!

Sage advice--thanks K-man.