rbw1966

quote: Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by fredrogers: Not much to recommend, unless you like large talus fields, shitty, wet, loose exposed approach gullies and loose, crappy rock all the way to the top of the climb. What's no to like about that? This is cascadeclimbers.com and that sure sounds like the Cascades to me. I personally liked the diversity of the adventure: long drive (I'm in Portland), followed by car bivvy, followed by alpine bike ride, followed by lovely hike, talus scramble, sketchy approach and crappy weather for the actual climb. Yup, its the cascades all right

Ooohh. . .look at me! Page top! This calls for a picture of trasks girlfriend soloing:

I'll second Caveman's suggestion. I picked up two matching tools for ~$100 clams brand new.

quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: Hey Cavey - If you keep posting shots like that I'm going to be forced to go out and buy crampons and an ice axe! You might need two ice tools for this route.

AIR BURST!! AIR BURST!!! Ah, man, I need a tissue.

Not sure if they got the onsite or the redpoint. I'm going bacck for the brownpoint this winter, Winter. Wanna join in the staining?

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: This makes me feel better:

This makes me feel better: [iMB]http://home.att.net/~jcatellani/wsb/media/84143/site1009_t.jpg[/img]

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: :Really, though, where are the bolted crack pitches at Smith. Look for the glued-on holds.

Oops, methinks I need to work on my reading comprehension. Doesn't look like Karate Crack to me though

"Karate Crack" has small pockets and glue-in bolts? Methinks you are either trolling or sadly mistaken (what would you need bolts for on a crack climb?). Karate Crack has neither that I recall but is instead a rather stunning backward question mark-shaped crack (?) adjacent to Cinammon Slab, another fine climb if you combined the two pitches.

Just not going to let me forget that are ya? I'm hoping to go back and pick those up later this winter. . . Or maybe leave more behind. Buy your stock now.

Sounds pretty frigging challenging.

Winter's a good guy to climb with. The exposure really wasn't too bad; the hanging belays sucked though. I got both of them but I can't complain too loudly since he had the crux pitches. the upper portions are fairly slabby. We thought a couple guys were behind us so we were trying to move efficiently so as not to slow anyone down. The descent down cocaine gully sucks in tevas or climbing shoes. Carry approach shoes or be ready for sore feet. Yeah we got the serious alpine start going for Smith. We even made coffee and performed morning ablutions. Also saw 4 snakes later that afternoon walking back from Spiderman.

If it was us you were spying on the traverse you'll note my false start. Sure, its only 5.8 but its unprotected with a nice swing into the open book you just left. Very inspiring. I had to step back and see if I still had a sack. Much motivation from Winter got me over that hurdle--the rest of the pitch was easy. He had the 5.10a and did a most stylish lead. Winter is da man. We were there first thing in the morning, around 9:30 or so. The weather was purrrfect.

Are you taking skis? When are you planning on doing it? The marathon's been on my ticklist a while.

Did y'all wave at Winter and I as we thrutched our way up Zebra/Zion sunday morning?

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: . . . But the Doctor hasn't met a single member of Portland's climbing community, nor even heard of any PDX climbers who was an asshole of the magnitude that you clearly are. . . One local climber clearly comes to mind that fits into this category but I don't think this is him as he is on the road right now, and has a girlfriend. Two obvious inconsistencies with the present antagonist. By the way, DFA I dig your inventive style.

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: quote:Originally posted by rbw1966: Priapism (spinal injury?) (snip) Priapism (prolonged and painful erection) Its sometimes an indication of spinal injury in trauma patients.

quote: Originally posted by iain: Here's a question. I used duct tape to cover up tears in my jacket. I finally have a second jacket and want to send off the old one for repair to patagonia, but after removing the duct tape, there's a bunch of sticky stuff left behind. How do I get rid of this stuff? Iain-- My wife has this citrus stuff that has removed gum and pine pitch from my gore-tex stuff. Can't remember what its called but she picked it up at freddys.

Priapism (spinal injury?) is right about spot on. Took us a little less than 5 hours a couple of weeks ago. We only took about 5 cams and a set of stoppers though. Oops--that was for the west ridge. YMMV.

quote: Originally posted by Off White: quote:Originally posted by rbw1966: quote:Originally posted by sexual chocolate: . . (or from The Supersuckers). . . The greatest rock and roll band in the world! Well, except for Dead Moon...In the spirit of name-dropping, I thought I'd spray that I used to be friends with Andrew of Dead Moon fame. Haven't talked to him since I stopped working in a bar though (i.e. free beer). The whisky on the drum is cool no matter how many times I see it.

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: . . (or from The Supersuckers). . . The greatest rock and roll band in the world! Rob "Creepy Jackalope Eye"

I've tried it a couple of times in the fall. We found the bergschrund to be challenging to surpass as we had to descend into it then climb the other side. Took considerably longer than we expected to, so we bailed rather than be pins in the bowling alley. You can bring rock pro but I'd imagine it to be more psychological than useful. Skiing on snowdome was worth the effort though. I think this is a route I'll save for the winter. good luck and let me know how conditions are when you get there. Seems the glacier is indeed receeding.